Dinitrogen Monoxide newbie :)
08-10-2009, 09:33 PM
#1
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Dinitrogen Monoxide newbie :) Ok ive been scanning and searching for days on end and 
am left slightly confused on a few things, which i will get to, let me start off with my setup/
2002 T/A ls1, longtubes, lid, cutout. thats it.
EDIT: oops forgot its A4
Ok i bought a NX kit with a single nozzle, i am going to start with a 75 shot 41N, and 22F. mounted in the rubber betweent he MAF and TB. This is going to be untuned for a little while and i am going to keep an eye on it.
I have a MSD window switch, with pills, and will probably go 2800-3000 to 6000 plus or minus a few hundred idk where my shift points are at the moment.
I was given some new AR94 plugs to use, but am going to buy some BR7EF's just to be safe. Same heat range but non-protruding.
after i get it tuned street tuned i am looking at a 100 shot, 52N and 28F.
and some day after i get around to putting in a walbro 255 a 150 shot.
OK time for the questions.
1.What should the plug gap be?
2. how much drivablity and street power will i loose from being tuned VERY safely for the 100 shot, i mean as far as timing goes. i wont be using the spray a lot and its a DD so i really would like to not loose the power.
3. Is there a product i can use that will pull timing, so i can still have a good powered tune without the spray, without costing as much as the kit itself? I'm a budget builder and the only reason i bought the kit is because it was used and cheap, but in very good condition.
4. Who is spraying on a stock 10bolt POS, and hows it holding up?
Im sure i have more questions but i cant remember them right now.
am left slightly confused on a few things, which i will get to, let me start off with my setup/2002 T/A ls1, longtubes, lid, cutout. thats it.
EDIT: oops forgot its A4
Ok i bought a NX kit with a single nozzle, i am going to start with a 75 shot 41N, and 22F. mounted in the rubber betweent he MAF and TB. This is going to be untuned for a little while and i am going to keep an eye on it.
I have a MSD window switch, with pills, and will probably go 2800-3000 to 6000 plus or minus a few hundred idk where my shift points are at the moment.
I was given some new AR94 plugs to use, but am going to buy some BR7EF's just to be safe. Same heat range but non-protruding.
after i get it tuned street tuned i am looking at a 100 shot, 52N and 28F.
and some day after i get around to putting in a walbro 255 a 150 shot.
OK time for the questions.
1.What should the plug gap be?
2. how much drivablity and street power will i loose from being tuned VERY safely for the 100 shot, i mean as far as timing goes. i wont be using the spray a lot and its a DD so i really would like to not loose the power.
3. Is there a product i can use that will pull timing, so i can still have a good powered tune without the spray, without costing as much as the kit itself? I'm a budget builder and the only reason i bought the kit is because it was used and cheap, but in very good condition.
4. Who is spraying on a stock 10bolt POS, and hows it holding up?
Im sure i have more questions but i cant remember them right now.
Last edited by TheInferno; 08-11-2009 at 02:56 PM.
08-11-2009, 02:57 AM
#2
.
1.What should the plug gap be?
Anywhere from .030 to .035
2. how much drivablity and street power will i loose from being tuned VERY safely for the 100 shot, i mean as far as timing goes. i wont be using the spray a lot and its a DD so i really would like to not loose the power.
You will lose some power depending on how conservative your tune is. A better option may be to purchase a timing tuner that, when the kit is activated, will pull the timing for you. This allows you to DD with a street tune
3. Is there a product i can use that will pull timing, so i can still have a good powered tune without the spray, without costing as much as the kit itself? I'm a budget builder and the only reason i bought the kit is because it was used and cheap, but in very good condition.
See question 2
4. Who is spraying on a stock 10bolt POS, and hows it holding up?
The problem isn't spraying on a stockl 10 bolt. The problem is when you start mounting slicks or drag radials up. You do not want to dead hook the 10 bolt, or it'll explode. If you're doing roll racing type of stuff, you can keep it alive for a while.
Im sure i have more questions but i cant remember them right now.
1.What should the plug gap be?
Anywhere from .030 to .035
2. how much drivablity and street power will i loose from being tuned VERY safely for the 100 shot, i mean as far as timing goes. i wont be using the spray a lot and its a DD so i really would like to not loose the power.
You will lose some power depending on how conservative your tune is. A better option may be to purchase a timing tuner that, when the kit is activated, will pull the timing for you. This allows you to DD with a street tune
3. Is there a product i can use that will pull timing, so i can still have a good powered tune without the spray, without costing as much as the kit itself? I'm a budget builder and the only reason i bought the kit is because it was used and cheap, but in very good condition.
See question 2
4. Who is spraying on a stock 10bolt POS, and hows it holding up?
The problem isn't spraying on a stockl 10 bolt. The problem is when you start mounting slicks or drag radials up. You do not want to dead hook the 10 bolt, or it'll explode. If you're doing roll racing type of stuff, you can keep it alive for a while.
Im sure i have more questions but i cant remember them right now.
08-11-2009, 02:53 PM
#3
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thanks for the help. Im trying to track down a more affordable timing tuner. used = good for me. they are a little pricey but worth is so i can run a good street tune. And i will have dr's but and not going to go WOT untill about 1 second either manual or with the controller, and even with DR's LVMS suck major on traction.
I started out looking for a kit and found on with everything including a 255 but passed because i was scared of it, now i cant wait for the day i can put a 200 shot on that beezy.
I started out looking for a kit and found on with everything including a 255 but passed because i was scared of it, now i cant wait for the day i can put a 200 shot on that beezy.
08-11-2009, 04:51 PM
#4
make sure you check your spray a/f ratio. the jetting suggested is just a starting point. I would check out the Interface for timing pull. It's cheaper and also has the ability to adjust a/f ratios. I think it's a great value and will re-sale later with out much $$ lose. I see them on here every now and then used?
Robert
Robert
08-13-2009, 12:19 AM
#5
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Ok a few more questons. I know tach is pin #10 at the pcm BUT is there elsewhere i can get it? for my 8956 window switch. and is it true that i have to run it in 4cylinder mode?
08-13-2009, 02:43 AM
#6
Short answer is yes. When pulling a tach signal for a COP ignition you have to put it in 4 cyl mode. Some people have luck pulling a tach signal from behind the instrument cluster, but I can't help you with which wire it is. I always pull straight from the PCM
08-13-2009, 09:25 AM
#7
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thank you i plan on using a little blue splice in connector i AM NOT cutting into a wire that close to the computer. Then ill wrap the **** out of it with electrical tape. Thats all the wireing i have left to do (other then looming everything), and then a bottle heater which i need to buy the kit for. I got a little red lighted switch at vatozone, and NONE of the vatozone, checker, or pepboys within 5 miles of my house have a little push button for purge, so I'm going to a little electronics place today. I'm guessing the guy who i bought the kit from didn't like it because he couldn't get the window switch to work right...the loops aren't cut. im getting it tuned soon so i can actually be safe but im going check the plugs too, im just glad i dont have an EL TEA JUAN i hate doing plugs in that dang car.