CanadianEh!

iTrader: (4)

Hi...new to the site so appreciate everone's opinion. I must say I've referred to this site often and have learned a lot from everyone. Here are the dyno numbers on a Mustang Chassis Dyno for my 2001 full weight (3900 llbs with me in it) Conv Z28. Q1. Based on my engine build and the 150 nitrous shot on a 3.43 A4 where should I be shifting for the best 1/4 mile times? Q2. How much nitrous could I safely run?

Engine Specs:

Drive Train: Wheel to Wheel Performance Forged LS2-402 Cubic Inches (Callies forged crank, Compstar H-Beam rods, Mahle Forged Aluminum pistons), Bore 4" X Stroke 4" @ 11:1 compression with AFR 225 ported heads and high volume oil pump. The cam is 228 intake 235 exhaust @ .050 and .598 lift with a 114 lobe separation. Custom fabricated stainless steel double cone K&N Cold Air with inlets outside of engine compartment, 160 degree thermostat, Electric Water Pump, Underdrive pulley, Z06 screen-less MAF, Ported FAST 92mm intake and Fast 92mm LoudMouth throttle body, 36 llb injectors and Racetronix in-tank high flow fuel system with 225L/hour Walbro Pump and upgraded wiring harness, Stainless Supermax Dynotech Full length Headers (primary tube 1 3/4" with 3" collector) , high flow cats and Borla cat back. Automatic 4 speed, Yank Converter with 3800 stall and trans-cooler (stock gear ratios but built stronger). Moser 12 bolt rear-end with full Eaton posi, 33 spline axles and 3.43 gear. Tires: Rear: 17" M/T Drag Radials (25" in height). Custom 6 point roll cage built by Jerry Foster.


Power-Adder: Nitrous Outlet 92MM Plate adjustable to 150 RWHP shot. Controlled by V Guage Progressive Nitrous Controller (Dual Window Switch, 1st Gear lock-out, A/F with wide-band, A/F cut-off lean and rich, Heater Controller, Heater Blanket, etc. Safety enhanced with Timing Tuner, Remote Bottle Opener, blow-down tube, purge, FPSW, NGK TR6 sparkplugs and A/F shut-off (wide-band).

Best N/A: 11.84 @ 114.4 MPH

Best Nitrous Pass: 11.21 @ 122.72 MPH


MUSTANG CHASSIS DYNO: (Naturally Aspirated Run)

RPM TQ HP

2863 77 42
2914 82 45
3154 158 93
3865 307 224
4109 328 256
4232 330 265
4354 334 276
4514 339 291
4661 346 306
4779 350 317
4912 350 327
5016 352 336
5137 351 343
5260 353 354
5372 353 360
5465 353 366
5579 352 374
5695 348 377
5787 348 383
5888 346 387
6001 342 390
6065 338 390
6165 333 391
6257 331 394
6335 326 393
6415 320 391
6483 316 390
6545 311 387
6615 306 385
6668 302 383
6720 296 379
6517 285

MelScrilla

iTrader: (2)

It seems like your dyno numbers are way low for a built 402 with AFR heads, even on a mustang dyno. Cam only 346's make this kind of hp, I would look into a retune. There's a lot of threads in the dyno section about guys running 402's and 408's making 500+ rwhp easy with alot less head than you have.

I'm no expert but i would say that your shift point would be a couple hundred rpm's after peek hp. So in your case around 6500.

On another note it seems like your running out of steam a little soon and a bigger cam in a 402 would pick you up a lot of left over HP. It seems like your car is setup pretty much for drag racing if you went with a cam like 240/244 with .600+ lift you could still have nice driveablility and make well over 500rwhp N/A

CanadianEh!

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the feedback. I agree with your comments on the dyno numbers. I have always thought those dyno numbers were low for my combination. I found out recently that both high flow cats from dynotech (metal) were completely collapsed on the inside with the passenger side leaving only a inch and a half hole and the whole middle of the drivers side had dislodged and wedged itself down the exhaust pipe......not sure if this was the case when it was dynoed. I'm currently shifting at around 6500 so right on your suggestion. Thanks again for the feedback and I'm really going to start looking seriously at cam choices.