Drake

iTrader: (1)

After six or eight months of thinking, designing, and installing, my custom nitrous system is FINALLY finished (except for the purge). I'm working out the last few bugs, and hope to dyno it either this or next weekend. Anyway, Here's my install report - enjoy!

Note: All of this was done with a "Do no harm to the car" policy. No holes were cut/drilled in any stock part, and everything can revert to 100% stock, down to the smallest parts.

First we made an aluminum mount for my bottle bracket, and brushed it to make it look nice. The mount is secured to the vehicle via the two rear seatbelt anchors and the two screws that secure the console. This design allows me to remove the bottle and still drop the rear seat-back down.



I then re-installed all of my previously installed (messy) wiring. I used computer and Radio Shack connectors so that I can simply plug in and unplug my switches and components as is necessary, and used convoluted tubing for neatness. All of this includes wiring for the S2K start button, Vert' rocker switch for antenna control, power for bottle heater, and running light control relays.



Next came the switch pannel with quick-connectors. One switch is for main nitrous system control, one is for enable 2nd stage shot, one is for purge, one is for bottle heater, and one is to kill the running lights. The top green LED is to show successful nitrous activation, the bottom red LEDs are for my two lean detection units (to tell me the status of both O2s). Each switch is recessed (the "top" two are a lot shorter, so that the ashtray lid will still close), each has a felt "slider" cover, and each has a red LED on the top that lights when the switch is on. Main nitrous power also has a buzzer on it, so it annoys me when the system is on.



Here it is installed, along with a shot of my vert' switch and S2000 start button.



I installed my FPSS right on the fuel rail, and a micro switch WOT. Again, I kept it all very neat with convoluted tubing.



I ran my control wires and LED power wires through the firewall below the PCM. The lines go to my control box, which you can see here. (It's full of relays, window switch, and two lean detection units). The lines are simply on quick connects, and plug straight into the controller box. Control inputs/outputs are on the "top" of the box, and include input lines from switch pannel, output lines for the switch pannel LED status lights, o2 signals and the tach signal from the PCM, and wires from the FPSS and WOT switches. The connector on the bottom is input and output for "high-amp" solenoid control lines.

This shot is with the brushed aluminum lid installed on the control box.



Here's the front bracket we made for holding the solenoid unit and nozzles. It's put together with stainless rivets and fits right under the air box, secured via two stainless bolts I slid through the two mysterious holes in the cross-member under the lower air box.



Here it is installed... I used covered nuts to dress it up. (I also put the nozzles in to check for clearance.)



Here's the solenoid assembly. I used NOS Cheater noids, just because I like heavy duty stuff. One is in series for safety, and the other two activate stage one and two. There's also a filter fitting on the 1st solenoid.



Here it is installed. You can see that the nozzles point right into the air box, and they both spray through the filter.



Finally, all that was left was to install the bottle. I polished it myself to a chrome-like finish, installed a pressure gauge, and ran a blow down line through the drain hole under the passenger rear seat. My lines are stainless with stainless ends of course. Under the driver's side rear seat is another filter and a pressure switch for the bottle heater (set for 1050 PSI). The lines for heater power run under the carpet from the center console, and tuck under the rear driver's side seat when the bottle heater isn't on the bottle. The rest of the nitrous line runs under the driver's side drain hole to the front of the car, along with the fuel lines. All of the braided line is covered in convoluted tubing, also, for protection.

(Note: Yes, those are Masterlocks holding the pins in my bottle brackets. I leave my tops out a lot in the summer, and didn't want some punk coming along, pulling the pins, and making off with my hand polished bottle.)



Here's another view:



Also, the lines actually "Crossed", that is the blow down tube exits the tank on the driver's side and passes over to the passenger side to exit the vehicle . This configuration seems to keep the lines under control, so that they don't stick out too far. (People still ride in my back seats sometimes.)

Well, that's it. Let me know what you think. I'd like to give a specail thanks to my father for helping me so much with this project, and a thanks to my uncle for donating a lot of the materials.

Thanks for having a look everyone! Merry Christmas!

Chris99WS6PWTMET

Very nice. I like the bottle hold down bracket. Good attention to detail on the set-up.

Zero_FactiX

what size shot are you going to be running?

TNTZ

That is gorgeous. I especially like the nitrous "pannel" in the ashtray. The solenoids are very clean.

Drake

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for all of the compliments.

I've got to get it dynoed and on the wideband, then I'll jet it as high as the stock PCM and fuel system can handle it. As of now both stages are set with 55 HP Zex jets.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Thats so much work for such a little shot. Get a fuel system and edit that bad boy. You have done a very impressive job!

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

That looks crazy. I like the polished bottle, and the switch panel with leds. I was thinking of just building my own comparitor circuit for wot activation and with an led light to know when it triggers. It came out very nice though. congrats!

x phantom x

iTrader: (14)

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Wow that's pretty impressive ... you're my idol
hehe, just kidding.

Seriously though, I guarantee you will rip that buzzer out after you're first time using the system. I used to have a bright blue LED light that came on when the system is activated, and it was the most annoying thing, especially if I was driving it on the street with the system engaged ... I can imagine a buzzer being even worse.

I love the wiring and attention to detail however, that's a really hot setup.

Reckless

iTrader: (9)

Nice, and definitely custom. More of a "show car" type install that is clean and functional. Good job!

Vents

iTrader: (9)

man, thats a VERY pimp install. you should sell those switch panels. i'd buy one.

Magred2001vette

iTrader: (2)

If you would be willing to do an install like your own, how much would you charge labor wise?$$$$$$$

algws6

iTrader: (3)

what type and size of leds did you use? i went to radio shack and they have a ton. also did you just wire them up directly to the switch or did you have to use some resistors, if so what size?

Drake

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I'd have to do some serious thinking about how much I'd charge... everything had to be hand made. I guess now that I've made the first unit, though, it wouldn't be too hard. I'll have to think about it.

BTW, the buzzer is QUITE annoying. I put it there for a reason, though.

Drake

iTrader: (1)

Oh man, that's an amazing question... If you mean how much would I charge to gather the parts, hand make all of the components, hand polish the bottle, run all of the wires, make the new controller box, and install all of it...

I know it'd be a lot. I'll have to get back to you on that.

Drake

iTrader: (1)

My two red LEDs came with the lean detection units, so I didn't have to buy those. Any 12v rated LED will work, just buy one from Radioshack that says it has the resistor pre-installed and hook it right up to your switch. (I don't even think they have a 12v that doesn't have the resistor, to be honest.) I didn't find a green LED that came in a nice chromed holder, so I bought another voltage LED with the holder, drilled the wimpy LED out of the holder, and installed my 12v green one in the holder.

To answer your question though yes, you'll want to install a resistor if the LED doesn't have one pre-installed. If you don't it will probably work for a while (maybe even a long time depending on the LED), but it won't last as long. You have to have a look at the data sheet provided with the LED and do a few simple calculations. This link can explain it WAY better than I can, just don't get overwhelmed if you've never messed with LEDs before.

http://cruisenews.net/cgi-bin/docksi...rames/read/216

AZLS1

iTrader: (2)

Nice job!

Benjamin Russick

iTrader: (1)

Very nice...especially the 'noid bar and switch plate.

FSTR-THANU

iTrader: (9)

Sweet show car type install!

Tom

TJ

iTrader: (10)

http://webpages.uah.edu/~clarkw/carpages/g.JPG
^^^ Did you make that, or is it a factory piece? might come in handy for my application as well. hehehe

VERY NICE SETUP!!!

Malicious

iTrader: (1)

Very very sweet setup you made there. I see lots of connectors I recognize(I'm a PC Tech by trade)