AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

This is my plan so far.
Nitro Daves N/O Plate kit with hard lines.
3 gal cell, Walbro pump and aeromotive regulator all braided lines mounted in the trunk
N/O dig progressive controller
N/O ash try panel
N/O Lt1 specific micro switch
N/O blow down NHRA fitting
N/O purge kit
N/O FPSS
NANO
HSW trans hump N20 bottle bracket
and some NGK TR7s gapped at .35
Already have a MSD Digital 6 igintion

Sound good??? Any other suggestions???????

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

well ac from what im learning non projected tip plugs are they way to go with spray. I would look into the bref7. The tr projected tip plugs will basically turn into glow plugs with heavy doses of spray(150+). I bought tr6's for my little 75 shot, but im leaning towards going with the bref7's also. Other than than that, your list looks good imo. The n20 plate kit is win for the lt1.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Any other opinions on my plan?
Kit, bracket, LT1 micro, switch panel, and fuel system are all ordered or I have it, just need to grab the odds and ends now.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Alright everything has been ordered plus more. Should work pretty good IMO.

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

NGK doesn't make a TR7... The plug is a BR7EF. You don't say how much you are going to spray, but I suspect if you feel the need to put a stand alone in the car you are probably going to spray enough to warrant a colder plug than the 7's.

Don't worry about the FPSS. They generally cause more problems then they are worth. Get a fp gauge and monitor it when you spray. You will also need a flow gauge to set the flowing fuel pressure on the stand alone.

IDK why you want to mount the stand alone in the trunk. It seems like it poses too many potential complications. I would think that its best to keep your fuel lines from the stand alone short to minimize the chances of fuel pressure being inconsistent on the initial hit before the fpr can compensate. If you do keep it in the back, I don't like the idea of the fpr being there. It needs to be as close as possible to the solenoid.

How much are you planning on spraying?

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Max ill spay on the plate kit prob 200-250. I really dont feel safe over that. Then Ill work on a DP system down the road

I dont see the big deal about the cell in the back. Every single car comes from the factory with the gas tank in the back, So whats the big difference? The car this fuel system came out of moved out pretty good so I know it will work. Also Id rather not drill through my car for a rear mount batt kill switch. Ive heard it weighs more too, but it cant weigh anymore than, moving the battery out back.
I dunno, guess I just dont see a big difference in where its mounted.

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

Here's the difference... You're talking about adding an extra 10 ft of line for this thing. That's a much larger volume of fuel to regulate the pressure of (ie harder for the fpr to compensate) especially at a lower pressure (assuming you are running low pressure on the fuel side). At the VERY minimum, the FPR needs to be as close as possible to the nitrous solenoid. You can't compare a factory system to a stand alone kit for nitrous... The demands on them are totally different. Also, just because the car you got it out of was fast doesn't mean that these variables won't present themselves at some point when you are spraying the car. - Not trying to be a jerk... Just trying to help ya out and have an intelligent conversation

As for weight, 10ft of -8 is probably pretty close to the weight of the extra wire. There are also ways to put a cutoff switch on the car without drilling into anything.

You'll need a colder plug for what you're trying to spray as well... Probably go to a B8EFS or B9EFS

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

No offense taken at all, thats the entire point of this thread, asking what you all think!
Ill Look into the plugs.
Its a high pressure walbro pump, maybe Im wrong but arnt most set ups rear mounted? Front mount set ups seem to be a F-body thing. I just know most cells I see are rear mounted or they just pull fuel from the factory tank, add a better pump or dual intank pumps

BillyBob750

Id go with a slightly colder plug. NGK makes a nice non-projected tip plug, with a heat range of seven for our cars. Works great for me, and the car still runs fine on motor.

shortdog

iTrader: (1)

Since you plan on spraying 200-250, take Ryanbrough's advice and go colder than a br7ef.

Also, you do have anything to pull your timing? I don't see it in your setup.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I have a MSD dig 6 for timing. Ill keep looking into plugs.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

I would get the bref7's, start with a 150 shot, get the tune right, and get familiar with the setup, then step up to a 200+ with a bref8's. Jmo...

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Ill start at 100 then just keep working up.