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WTF - 57rwhp form a 100 wet shot (Dyno chart inside)

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Old 03-02-2010, 10:37 AM   #1
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Question WTF - 57rwhp form a 100 wet shot (Dyno chart inside)

Had my car dynoed last week and it made 433RWHP/489RWTQ on motor and 490RWHP/570RWTQ on spray. Mods are: TR custom cam speced by predator-z (231/240 .643/.608 112+4), TSP-PRC 5.3 stg 2.5 heads, TH400, custom 4000 stall by FTI, TNT F2 (100 shot), 3.73 gears, LS6 intake and Full bolt-ons.

As you can see in the charts I've only gained a 57hp form 100 shot where the dual nozzle TNT with a 100 shot should make 125whp.

In should be noted that the bottle that I used on the dyno used at the strip with a 300 shot and it wasn't with a pressure gage nor a heater and those two runs was on an open cutout, running on 95 octane fuel and TR6 plugs.

It run an AFR of 13.03 NA which is good, but with the shot it was rich (11.31) Is that can be caused when I run out nitrous or from a low bottle pressure?

Could you guys please help me on that?

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Old 03-02-2010, 10:43 AM   #2
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the a/f on the spray looks good maybe a little rich but you want it that away

i would say you need to get a heater and a pressure gauge

ive seen the kits not hardly work at all when it is cold and they have no pressure
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:52 AM   #3
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the a/f on the spray looks good maybe a little rich but you want it that away

i would say you need to get a heater and a pressure gauge

ive seen the kits not hardly work at all when it is cold and they have no pressure

I already got my brand new TNT bottle filled which shows a 900 PSI and I get my heater installed on it, and I'm planning to give the dyno a visit next week to see the improvements. BUT I'm just wondering if that only will help or there is another thing wrong (AFR, timing, the kit it self, pressure, tune.. etc)

Thanks anyway.
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:18 AM   #4
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Im not trying to be funny, but have you checked the lines and/or jets for obstructions? maybe that pressure isnt even making it to the engine? are you running a nozzle or a plate? is the nozzle set up and aimed correctly? have you tested the setup off of the car, like say into a five gallon bucket? this will eliminate the ideas of problems with the kit. then you can go deeper into where the problem is on the engine side. plugs too cold, spark blowing out?
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:21 AM   #5
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Ur gonna lose more thru a auto especially with a higher stall. Bottle pressure will affect the A/F so raise it up and ull gain some of the power back. Im not expert but Id say a 112 LSA is kinda tight for a N2O cam and ur RPM range so ur losing some power there also
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUPER_CHEVY View Post
I already got my brand new TNT bottle filled which shows a 900 PSI and I get my heater installed on it, and I'm planning to give the dyno a visit next week to see the improvements. BUT I'm just wondering if that only will help or there is another thing wrong (AFR, timing, the kit it self, pressure, tune.. etc)

Thanks anyway.
thats a good start,their could be an infinite number of things wrong but your a/f looks fine to me

on a nitrous car you want it to be in the mid 11 range

i would put my money on it being the bottle pressure right now

i ran without a heater for awhile,even though you have 900psi when you hit it your bottle instantly loses pressure so it wont maintain the full amount without a good heater throughout the whole pass

i always tried to get my pressure around 1000 psi before a pass
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:35 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by speedcrazy2 View Post
the a/f on the spray looks good maybe a little rich but you want it that away

i would say you need to get a heater and a pressure gauge

ive seen the kits not hardly work at all when it is cold and they have no pressure
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Originally Posted by speedcrazy2 View Post
thats a good start,their could be an infinite number of things wrong but your a/f looks fine to me

on a nitrous car you want it to be in the mid 11 range

i would put my money on it being the bottle pressure right now

i ran without a heater for awhile,even though you have 900psi when you hit it your bottle instantly loses pressure so it wont maintain the full amount without a good heater throughout the whole pass

i always tried to get my pressure around 1000 psi before a pass
You are both wrong. 11:1 is too rich by any means.
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:56 AM   #8
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You are both wrong. 11:1 is too rich by any means.
i said mid 11 on the a/f and also stated that it is still a little rich

i dont know about you but i always tried to keep my a/f on the spray around 11.8 to 1

im not saying this is right just what i do to make sure my car is safe and i know quite a few that run in that area

to me it is much better to lose a little power from being rich than it is to go lean and fry something
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:19 PM   #9
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Pics of the plugs?
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 99_Z_155 View Post
Im not trying to be funny, but have you checked the lines and/or jets for obstructions? maybe that pressure isnt even making it to the engine? are you running a nozzle or a plate? is the nozzle set up and aimed correctly? have you tested the setup off of the car, like say into a five gallon bucket? this will eliminate the ideas of problems with the kit. then you can go deeper into where the problem is on the engine side. plugs too cold, spark blowing out?
Actually, I bought the kit from a guy who store it out of service for a long time and it was dusty and when we were install we test it and the nitrous jet was not working but after some hittings it works

The TNT FII is power ring kit, which is similar to the plate.

I don't not think that there is a problem in the kit it self. The plugs isn't too cold, the TR6 plugs is in the mid range which is recommended by everybody.
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDB View Post
Ur gonna lose more thru a auto especially with a higher stall. Bottle pressure will affect the A/F so raise it up and ull gain some of the power back. Im not expert but Id say a 112 LSA is kinda tight for a N2O cam and ur RPM range so ur losing some power there also
It is a nitrous friendly cam as recommend by both Predator-z and Partick-G.
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:06 PM   #12
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Pics of the plugs?
Unfortunately,, NO
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:07 PM   #13
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switch your plugs to a ngk br7ef gapped at .030 and put a pressure gauge on it
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:40 PM   #14
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i feel your pain brotha
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:45 PM   #15
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i said mid 11 on the a/f and also stated that it is still a little rich

i dont know about you but i always tried to keep my a/f on the spray around 11.8 to 1

im not saying this is right just what i do to make sure my car is safe and i know quite a few that run in that area

to me it is much better to lose a little power from being rich than it is to go lean and fry something
Being rich will lift ring lands also. You are still leaving power on the table. You would want your A/F in the mid 12's. But for the true test forget the wideband and Read Your Plugs. Ask the big boys (ATVracer, BAKED, Shiznity, JL-ws6) and they will tell you to read your plugs.
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:00 PM   #16
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Being rich will lift ring lands also. You are still leaving power on the table. You would want your A/F in the mid 12's. But for the true test forget the wideband and Read Your Plugs. Ask the big boys (ATVracer, BAKED, Shiznity, JL-ws6) and they will tell you to read your plugs.
i would agree with the plugs but for a newbie i dont know if they woulkd even know what to look for
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:03 PM   #17
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i would agree with the plugs but for a newbie i dont know if they woulkd even know what to look for
Who cares if they dont know what to look for, tell them the right/safe plug to run nomatter what they know or not. No reason to run the tr6 when you can run the non projected 7 or 8 be more safe and make the same power on motor.

The car needs br7ef's gapped around .030 and get the bottle pressure up to 900-950 with a full bottle. then put it back on the dyno and got from there. Case closed
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:19 PM   #18
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Who cares if they dont know what to look for, tell them the right/safe plug to run nomatter what they know or not. No reason to run the tr6 when you can run the non projected 7 or 8 be more safe and make the same power on motor.

The car needs br7ef's gapped around .030 and get the bottle pressure up to 900-950 with a full bottle. then put it back on the dyno and got from there. Case closed
we were talking about knowing if you are lean or rich from looking at your plugs not which one to run

thanx for chiming in though
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:40 PM   #19
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i would agree with the plugs but for a newbie i dont know if they woulkd even know what to look for
That's what those guys I mentioned earlier are for. They have been helping viscious00 on here by reading his plugs on here and giving him suggestions on timing and fuel. Our new mod who just responded (camscam02) will lend a helping hand if needed.
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:19 PM   #20
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That's what those guys I mentioned earlier are for. They have been helping viscious00 on here by reading his plugs on here and giving him suggestions on timing and fuel. Our new mod who just responded (camscam02) will lend a helping hand if needed.
im done, i never said anything to this guy about plugs,i told him that he needs to get a bottle heater and a pressure gauge which will probably help him get some of that 100 shot to the tires

he is losing some of that from being too rich but im sure he isnt like the ones mentioned earlier who want every tenth they can get,he probably would rather have a safe setup that isnt pushing the threshhold of kaboom

supermod chimed in saying i told him the wrong plug so i corrected him
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:19 PM
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