Pulled the Motor and found......
06-16-2010, 06:40 PM
#1
Pulled the Motor and found...... HISTORY:
Well, I just have to say it's been a wild ride this year after installing the NANO and Dedicated System. I thought it would be plug and play but here is what really happened:
1) First time out after the upgrades the transmission went. Replaced that with a Performabuilt Level 3.
2) On the first trip to the Dyno N/A was fine but the graph was all over the map on any attempted N20 runs. Ran low on Nitrous so called it a day. Also learned I was running projected tip plug and switched to NGK BR7ES.
3) Determined Timing Tuner is not working. Contacted Chris at Nitrous Outlet who gave us a wiring diagram. Wired up Timing Tuner and double checked all Nitrous connections and wiring.
4) Back to the Dyno a few weeks later and N/A runs lost 100 HP and Nitrous runs produce even less HP! Tuner felt it was a spring issue. We pulled the valve covers and there it was a spring broken in two places on the Drivers side with the valve being held up with only the inner spring. We swapped out the springs for Patriate Golds.
5) A week later we determined that in wiring up the Timing Tuner we left off the ground for the solinoids and that explains why less HP, pulling timing but no fuel or N20.
6) Back to the Tuner where we made 400 RWHP N/A and 570 RWHP with a 200 shot (70 N20 and 36 Fuel - pulling 7 degrees of timing). Had to really lean down the jetting as pig rich using suggested jetting (adjusted for NANO). I felt I could go on to a bigger N20 jet but determined that converter was slipping so have a new Pro Yank 3600 11" Converter on order.
Chris at Nitrous Outlet was great through all these trials and tribulations, always answered the phone and encouraged us through the whole ordeal. I have to admit with all the set-backs it would have been easy to give in to the temptation to blame the Nitrous Outlet products. I'm so glad I didn't because none of my issues had anything to do with their products which work great and they were a great help to boot!
UPDATE:
First run at the track N/A and a big blue cloud at the end of the track and oil pouring out the rear of the motor. Good oil pressure and temp so drove to my mechanic who did leak-down test with results as follows:
1-65%, 3-55%, 5-20%, 7-65%, 2-30%, 4-55%, 6-20%, 8-40%
Pulled the Motor and sent to the Machine Shop. They phoned me today to say no broken parts, ringland or evidence of detonation. The cylinders were all out of round (football shaped) and scuffed. Only 15,000 miles on motor, only synthetic oil used (5W 30) so confused as to what would have caused this. New Diamond Nitrous Pistons and rings going in along with ARP head studs and bearings, etc. Anyone have any ideas on what caused this kind of damage?
Well, I just have to say it's been a wild ride this year after installing the NANO and Dedicated System. I thought it would be plug and play but here is what really happened:
1) First time out after the upgrades the transmission went. Replaced that with a Performabuilt Level 3.
2) On the first trip to the Dyno N/A was fine but the graph was all over the map on any attempted N20 runs. Ran low on Nitrous so called it a day. Also learned I was running projected tip plug and switched to NGK BR7ES.
3) Determined Timing Tuner is not working. Contacted Chris at Nitrous Outlet who gave us a wiring diagram. Wired up Timing Tuner and double checked all Nitrous connections and wiring.
4) Back to the Dyno a few weeks later and N/A runs lost 100 HP and Nitrous runs produce even less HP! Tuner felt it was a spring issue. We pulled the valve covers and there it was a spring broken in two places on the Drivers side with the valve being held up with only the inner spring. We swapped out the springs for Patriate Golds.
5) A week later we determined that in wiring up the Timing Tuner we left off the ground for the solinoids and that explains why less HP, pulling timing but no fuel or N20.
6) Back to the Tuner where we made 400 RWHP N/A and 570 RWHP with a 200 shot (70 N20 and 36 Fuel - pulling 7 degrees of timing). Had to really lean down the jetting as pig rich using suggested jetting (adjusted for NANO). I felt I could go on to a bigger N20 jet but determined that converter was slipping so have a new Pro Yank 3600 11" Converter on order.
Chris at Nitrous Outlet was great through all these trials and tribulations, always answered the phone and encouraged us through the whole ordeal. I have to admit with all the set-backs it would have been easy to give in to the temptation to blame the Nitrous Outlet products. I'm so glad I didn't because none of my issues had anything to do with their products which work great and they were a great help to boot!
UPDATE:
First run at the track N/A and a big blue cloud at the end of the track and oil pouring out the rear of the motor. Good oil pressure and temp so drove to my mechanic who did leak-down test with results as follows:
1-65%, 3-55%, 5-20%, 7-65%, 2-30%, 4-55%, 6-20%, 8-40%
Pulled the Motor and sent to the Machine Shop. They phoned me today to say no broken parts, ringland or evidence of detonation. The cylinders were all out of round (football shaped) and scuffed. Only 15,000 miles on motor, only synthetic oil used (5W 30) so confused as to what would have caused this. New Diamond Nitrous Pistons and rings going in along with ARP head studs and bearings, etc. Anyone have any ideas on what caused this kind of damage?
06-16-2010, 07:06 PM
#2
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: A DEN
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
????? They phoned me today to say no broken parts, ringland or evidence of detonation. The cylinders were all out of round (football shaped) and scuffed. Only 15,000 miles on motor, only synthetic oil used (5W 30) so confused as to what would have caused this.
This is odd. This is why I dont like aluminum blocks. Heat is a ************. Wonder why it scuffed the cylinder walls but didnt do any damage to ringlands or pistons. Also use a heavier oil man. 5w 30 is to light in my opinion.
This is odd. This is why I dont like aluminum blocks. Heat is a ************. Wonder why it scuffed the cylinder walls but didnt do any damage to ringlands or pistons. Also use a heavier oil man. 5w 30 is to light in my opinion.
