06blackGTO

iTrader: (20)

Long story short. hooked up nitrous, used it once out at the track and it worked fine. refilled bottle, and now it wont work. It will cut out on and off, and I can hear the nitrous selonoid clicking on and off. the fuel selonoid is fine, just the nitrous one is clicking. I don't have a fpss on the bottle. and I re ran the ground wire from the n20 selonoid to the battery neg. and it still does it, any ideas please.

rambodog

iTrader: (2)

My first guess would be a bad selonoid.

06blackGTO

iTrader: (20)

thats what Im thinking.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Odds are you here the relay clicking off and on. Are you 100 percent sure its the solenoid you hear clicking.

What solenoids are they?
What size wire are you runing to pin 30 on the relay?
What size wire are you running from the relay to the solenoids?
What size wire are you grounding the solenoids with?
What are you grounding them to?
What controller are you using?
Have you varified the RPM on the controller matches the cars RPM?
Dave

06blackGTO

iTrader: (20)

Oh yeah, hsw selenoids.

Thanks for the response. I have found out that both my relays plus the n20 selonoid is clicking. Im using a hsw microedge. when I push on the pedal for a dry run, it says spraying and it's flickering. my relay under the dash is clicking and so is my timing tricker relay, and so is the n20 selonoid. the fuel selonoid isn't. when I touch the n20 selonoid directly to the battery it just clicks once. so I don't think it's the selonoid. Im runnin 10 gauge from the relay to the selenoids. Im grounding the selenoids to the block, I went directly to the battery with the n20 one and it still clicked on and off when I moved the ground. Yes I had the rpm matched on the controller to the car.
I have no pressure going to the n20 selenoid right now. the n20 line is not hooked up. it doesn't make a diff. does it, or does the noid need pressure against it? I really appreciate the help. I have it all tore apart right now where I can get to the wiring.

06blackGTO

iTrader: (20)

I just went over the wiring again, and all grounds. Im at a loss.

06blackGTO

iTrader: (20)

Okay I believe it's the tps wire causing the issue. here is what high teck gm performance magazine did when it ran into this issue.

Figuring out which of the GTO's TPS wires to tap into for the FJO's TPS activation signal was tough. NX's instructions for this C6 Corvette kit specified tapping into the purple TPS wire at the lower rear of the plug. We did so when hooking up the FJO box, which resulted in the solenoids rapidly turning on and off--the Goat's wiring is different. A digital multimeter was used to try to figure out the problem, and the voltage read normal. With help from NX's Ricky Stancik, FJO's Gerald Oberbuchner, and TTP's George Benson, Werner concluded that there were two TPS signals--one rising, one falling--and the voltage signal characteristics of each (i.e., whether or not they had some sort of spiking behavior invisible on a multimeter) would be visible only on a scope, which we didn't have. Chris decided to hook up the TPS activation wire to the falling signal, which was the green wire at the top rear of the plug. This worked, and we now had a TPS signal for the FJO box.


I tried this, but I had to lower the tps signal voltage down to arm the system, when it did it said spraying, and the relays were not clicking. so now I just need to figure out how to get it to spray, with the numbers reversed. but atleast I now figured it out. if anybody has any ideas, please chime in.

6point7s14

iTrader: (3)

Most solenoid problems i have seen are not opening when bottle pressure is at a certain psi. Lower the bottle pressure and try?

06blackGTO

iTrader: (20)

I had the bottle pressure down to 1,000psi. and it still did it. I believe it's the tps wire problem. I even had it disconnected and it still was clicking on and off.

06blackGTO

iTrader: (20)

I guess Im not the only one. here is another one. this one is helpful. Im going to do this tomorrow.




So since I installed my really 'elaborate' nitrous setup I have had a surge / surging / hesitation / hiccup / lack of power problem I could not figure out.

Heres what I am using:

NX solenoids
NX foggers 'Y'
Trick Performance Window Switch
Lingenfelter Timing Controller
NGK BR7EFS or whatever they are called (Non Projected Tip)
MSD Wires


Now it all started when I initially installed the kit. About 6months ago. Took it to the dyno, and the car was breaking badly on the 175 shot. Tried leaning out the car via Jets AND fuel pressure and no dice.

Dropped down to the 125 shot, and the car still had a hiccup.

Since the hiccup was less, I figured it was the plug gap. At the time, I had NGK TR6s which I forgot to gap. So they were at .040's like they come out of the box.

Went to the BR7EFS, and I still had the same issue.

Removed the Nitrous filter, still had the same issue.

Changed from stock wires to MSDs, still had the same issue.

Took apart the solenoids and powered them up manually, and they all flowed fine. Discovered that the fuel fitler was backwards, so I fixed that. Still had the same issue.

Yesterday, I disconnected the Lingenfelter Timing tuner, and the nitrous did not work! DUH, I wired the tach signal into the Lingenfelter coil wiring harness.

Set the Trick performance tps/window switch to 0 RPMS, that way it only works as a WOT switch.

Took it for a drive, still hesitating.

So with the ENGINE not running, but the key in the 'ON' position, I proceeded to push the throttle pedal down.


CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK,CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK...

sounded like a had a Mariachi Band playing under the hood.

The solenoids were BOTH pulsing.

Disconnected the solenoids, the relay was still pulsing.

Disconnected the relay, and hooked up my test light, and the ground trigger wire was still pulsing.

Checked the TPS voltage at the purple wire, and it was rock solid at 4.5Volts.

Reset the TPS voltage down to 4.4, and the problem was still there.

Changed over to the green wire, and redid the setup. Worked fine EXCEPT it would keep the nitrous on for a bit longer. So, I had to turn off the nitrous via the arming switch. Or it would turn on the solenoids at part throttle. I assume it does this because the PCM tries to predict how far you will go with the pedal, or to not cause any throttle 'shock'.

Tried called Trick Performance today, and left a voicemail.

I called Chris@NitroDaves and he gave me some ideas, like trying the 2nd channel. Maybe the first one is fried or something.

Well, I went to lunch, and thought things through. Searched LS1tech/LS1GTO and with difference search keywords I found people with the same problem with DIFFERENT tps/window switches.

So, being that its almost been 6months since my initial install, I was very eager to finish, figure this out.

SO, I noticed some people were installed their window/tps switch wiring in the interior.

Bingo, went to the throttle pedal, and found 2 wires according to AllDATA that provide pedal reference signals.

One is Dark Blue, the other is Light Blue

The Dark Blue wire is the one I used because It provided 0-2.5 volts, where as the light blue only ranged form 0-.5volts.

So, I wired the tps wire to the pedal and everything works as intended now.

Not only is my nitrous system working perfectly, but its probably more accurate than from the tps off the throttle body.

by removing that pesky wire from the throttle body, it 'cleaned' up the nitrous wiring. No longer do I have a single loomed wire going to the throttle body.

So for those that have a similar problem, dont buy another window switch. Just rewire to the pedal.:turbonaug

This is from my LS2 06 GTO btw

Cliff Notes: Trick Performance window switch installed to both Purple and Green wire did not work perfectly. Rewired it to Dark Blue wire on the gas pedal, everything works fine.