ONE SWITCH; bottle opener, heat, arm??????
#1
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ONE SWITCH; bottle opener, heat, arm??????
Is it possible to throw one switch/toggle and have the bottle opened, heater starts and it arms????
Then another toggle for purge???
Thank ya!
Then another toggle for purge???
Thank ya!
#2
I wouldn't see why not except that all 3 on one relay could be to much of a load. Besides, I would want the heater on sooner to heat the bottle up to temp/right press. mainly cause in cooler weather, it will take longer to heat up.
Edit: I just remembered, the bottle opener requires a 3-way momentary switch so it prolly won't work(That is for a NX/ZEX type). But the arm and heater would.
Edit: I just remembered, the bottle opener requires a 3-way momentary switch so it prolly won't work(That is for a NX/ZEX type). But the arm and heater would.
Last edited by toxic99; 02-14-2004 at 02:58 AM.
#3
10 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't do it. First, the switch for the bottle opener is a 3 position toggle. the center position is off. Left and right positions are open/close. In other words the switch is spring loaded to stay in the center or "off" position. You push the switch momentarily one way to open the bottle. Then the switch jumps back to center. Push the switch the opposite way and the bottle closes and then the switch jumps back top center. If you were to wire this in to a standard on/off or 2 position switch, when the switch was on, the bottle opener solenoid would constantly be triggered and would either burn up the bottle opener solenoid or just keep cycling open/closed/open/closed...
Also, in the summer when you don't need the heater you don't want it coming on when you arm your system.
So short answer is...use the different,correct type switches for each system you'll be much happier and much more versatile.
Also, in the summer when you don't need the heater you don't want it coming on when you arm your system.
So short answer is...use the different,correct type switches for each system you'll be much happier and much more versatile.
#5
Originally Posted by Dustin Butts
I wouldn't do it. First, the switch for the bottle opener is a 3 position toggle. the center position is off. Left and right positions are open/close. In other words the switch is spring loaded to stay in the center or "off" position. You push the switch momentarily one way to open the bottle. Then the switch jumps back to center. Push the switch the opposite way and the bottle closes and then the switch jumps back top center. If you were to wire this in to a standard on/off or 2 position switch, when the switch was on, the bottle opener solenoid would constantly be triggered and would either burn up the bottle opener solenoid or just keep cycling open/closed/open/closed...
Also, in the summer when you don't need the heater you don't want it coming on when you arm your system.
#6
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good info. Maybe I should have explained more.
I was in the thread that had the nice factory type toggles where the TCS switch is located.
I'd like to keep my TCS switch where it is and put 2 more switches there with it.
So if I had a heater thats one switch. Than the other switch would be to open/close the bottle. What about arm and purge? Do I really need 4 switches.
I was in the thread that had the nice factory type toggles where the TCS switch is located.
I'd like to keep my TCS switch where it is and put 2 more switches there with it.
So if I had a heater thats one switch. Than the other switch would be to open/close the bottle. What about arm and purge? Do I really need 4 switches.
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by Quickin
Good info. Maybe I should have explained more.
I was in the thread that had the nice factory type toggles where the TCS switch is located.
I'd like to keep my TCS switch where it is and put 2 more switches there with it.
So if I had a heater thats one switch. Than the other switch would be to open/close the bottle. What about arm and purge? Do I really need 4 switches.
I was in the thread that had the nice factory type toggles where the TCS switch is located.
I'd like to keep my TCS switch where it is and put 2 more switches there with it.
So if I had a heater thats one switch. Than the other switch would be to open/close the bottle. What about arm and purge? Do I really need 4 switches.
Ryan.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by slow
what i would reccomend for your situation, is get the 3 position nx style panel, and put a SPDT for the arm/heat like nx uses, a DPDT momentary for both control of the TCS and Purge (up one, down the other) and the last switch a DPDT momentary as well for the remote opener. This will require connecting 2 wires to the TCS switch, to get the TCS control. I have my TCS switch wired to one of the nx style switches in my car. You lose the light, but since there is a big TCS OFF light on the dash, it is not a big deal.
Ryan.
Ryan.
j/k, I don't know how to do any of that stuff, so I'll have to find a shop down here.
OH, whats with this fan switch? What does it do?
#9
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
the fan switch is the same as the slp's unit. It allows you full manual control of the high speed, and low speed fan operation.
with stock computer settings, it is almost needed to drive in hot temps without the AC on, as my car will get to 228 degrees driving normally, With the switch on low, it stays at 195.
Im assuming norris tuned your car to turn the fans on much sooner, and you probaly have a non stock t-stat as well, so it is probaly not needed on your car for daily driving.
If you run an electric waterpump, the fan switch would be useful to cool the motor off in the staging lanes between runs. Even without the water pump, it would help a little by keeping the coolant in the radiator cool.
I can meet you when you pick the car up no problem. I can supply wiring diagrams, and can help you wire it if you want.
nice choice of cars by the way
Ryan
with stock computer settings, it is almost needed to drive in hot temps without the AC on, as my car will get to 228 degrees driving normally, With the switch on low, it stays at 195.
Im assuming norris tuned your car to turn the fans on much sooner, and you probaly have a non stock t-stat as well, so it is probaly not needed on your car for daily driving.
If you run an electric waterpump, the fan switch would be useful to cool the motor off in the staging lanes between runs. Even without the water pump, it would help a little by keeping the coolant in the radiator cool.
I can meet you when you pick the car up no problem. I can supply wiring diagrams, and can help you wire it if you want.
nice choice of cars by the way
Ryan
#10
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by slow
the fan switch is the same as the slp's unit. It allows you full manual control of the high speed, and low speed fan operation.
with stock computer settings, it is almost needed to drive in hot temps without the AC on, as my car will get to 228 degrees driving normally, With the switch on low, it stays at 195.
Im assuming norris tuned your car to turn the fans on much sooner, and you probaly have a non stock t-stat as well, so it is probaly not needed on your car for daily driving.
If you run an electric waterpump, the fan switch would be useful to cool the motor off in the staging lanes between runs. Even without the water pump, it would help a little by keeping the coolant in the radiator cool.
I can meet you when you pick the car up no problem. I can supply wiring diagrams, and can help you wire it if you want.
nice choice of cars by the way
Ryan
with stock computer settings, it is almost needed to drive in hot temps without the AC on, as my car will get to 228 degrees driving normally, With the switch on low, it stays at 195.
Im assuming norris tuned your car to turn the fans on much sooner, and you probaly have a non stock t-stat as well, so it is probaly not needed on your car for daily driving.
If you run an electric waterpump, the fan switch would be useful to cool the motor off in the staging lanes between runs. Even without the water pump, it would help a little by keeping the coolant in the radiator cool.
I can meet you when you pick the car up no problem. I can supply wiring diagrams, and can help you wire it if you want.
nice choice of cars by the way
Ryan
Is there an order that these things have to be done, or do you just start hitting everything "on" in any order?
Yeah, the bright red sold me on the car way back in 1998.
#11
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NW Houston, TX
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, FWIW, I have a couple of harcore friends with stangs that dont use any switches. Time you turn the key to the "ON" position, your ready to rock. Push the button and remember to let go betwene the shifts.
#12
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
unfortunately, we might have misunderstood eachother. The only way to get all of what you need, in the 3 switches is to replace the TCS switch, with a dual purpose switch, or put the purge button somewhere else, (ie,the hatch release button work well...) as you can do heat/arm, and opener, with 2 switches. but not purge and arm, and opener. as the purge is momentary, and the arm is on/off.
for all of what you need to be controled by one panel, arm, heat, purge, tcs, and opener, here is what i would do.
the first one woudl be up arm, down heat, middle one, up purge, and down TCS, and the third one woudl do the bottle opener. You could of course rearrange them anyway you want, but the purge, and TCS have to share a switch as they are both momentary push buttons, the heater and arm so they have to share a switch, are on/off, and the bottle opener requires its own switch as well.
My reccomendation was to integrate the TCS switch into the new panel, with 2 purposes on the purge/TCS switch, down for one, up for the other.
the only other sugestion i have for installation is to do what another customer of mine has done. http://www.austinta.com/portfolio/interior/tcs.jpg but that requires cutting the console.
Ryan.
for all of what you need to be controled by one panel, arm, heat, purge, tcs, and opener, here is what i would do.
the first one woudl be up arm, down heat, middle one, up purge, and down TCS, and the third one woudl do the bottle opener. You could of course rearrange them anyway you want, but the purge, and TCS have to share a switch as they are both momentary push buttons, the heater and arm so they have to share a switch, are on/off, and the bottle opener requires its own switch as well.
My reccomendation was to integrate the TCS switch into the new panel, with 2 purposes on the purge/TCS switch, down for one, up for the other.
the only other sugestion i have for installation is to do what another customer of mine has done. http://www.austinta.com/portfolio/interior/tcs.jpg but that requires cutting the console.
Ryan.
#13
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by slow
unfortunately, we might have misunderstood eachother. The only way to get all of what you need, in the 3 switches is to replace the TCS switch, with a dual purpose switch, or put the purge button somewhere else, (ie,the hatch release button work well...) as you can do heat/arm, and opener, with 2 switches. but not purge and arm, and opener. as the purge is momentary, and the arm is on/off.
for all of what you need to be controled by one panel, arm, heat, purge, tcs, and opener, here is what i would do.
the first one woudl be up arm, down heat, middle one, up purge, and down TCS, and the third one woudl do the bottle opener. You could of course rearrange them anyway you want, but the purge, and TCS have to share a switch as they are both momentary push buttons, the heater and arm so they have to share a switch, are on/off, and the bottle opener requires its own switch as well.
My reccomendation was to integrate the TCS switch into the new panel, with 2 purposes on the purge/TCS switch, down for one, up for the other.
the only other sugestion i have for installation is to do what another customer of mine has done. http://www.austinta.com/portfolio/interior/tcs.jpg but that requires cutting the console.
Ryan.
for all of what you need to be controled by one panel, arm, heat, purge, tcs, and opener, here is what i would do.
the first one woudl be up arm, down heat, middle one, up purge, and down TCS, and the third one woudl do the bottle opener. You could of course rearrange them anyway you want, but the purge, and TCS have to share a switch as they are both momentary push buttons, the heater and arm so they have to share a switch, are on/off, and the bottle opener requires its own switch as well.
My reccomendation was to integrate the TCS switch into the new panel, with 2 purposes on the purge/TCS switch, down for one, up for the other.
the only other sugestion i have for installation is to do what another customer of mine has done. http://www.austinta.com/portfolio/interior/tcs.jpg but that requires cutting the console.
Ryan.
So if I replace that plate with 3 new switches. Keeping my lighter where it is.
The first switch on the left: Momentary switch- bottle opener/closer
The middle switch: Heater-up Arm-Down
The 3rd switch on the right: Purge-Up TCS-Down
So if I swing by when I pick my car up how long would that take to wire up?
How much $$$ for the labor?
Thanks,
Lyle
#15
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by slow
you can do it in that order no problem
labor, depends on what needs to be done, if just the TCS, i'll do it for you no problem just takes about 2 minutes, if you need the full kit wired up, ect, we can work something out.
labor, depends on what needs to be done, if just the TCS, i'll do it for you no problem just takes about 2 minutes, if you need the full kit wired up, ect, we can work something out.
I'll be picking the car up from Norris, driving it around for 800 miles for break-in before doing any dyno runs or even going over 3,000 rpm (ARE instructions and I'm doing exactly as they say so these damn rings seat perfectly). But if you want to install everything I can swing by your place after I pick up the car with the whole TNT system and the switches before I go back to Ft. lauderdale.
How long would everything take anyway?
Do you have the 3 switch assembly I need?
If you can't than maybe just the whole 3 switch deal and wiring, ready for one of the local shops to do the rest of the system.