wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

I've got my system wired up and working with the progressive controller (NOS launcher). One of the available triggers in the controller software is a button. I don't plan to spray during normal bracket racing but would like to wire in a button (the kind on a coiled cord) so I could use it to pull a fender if needed. Problem is I can't figure out how to wire in the button in a way that the progressive still works when I choose to use it.

I have a switch panel containing purge, main arm, heater, and 2 extra buttons. Could I somehow wire it so the button is only available when one of the extra switches is on?

Grateful for any ideas. Please attach diagram if possible.

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

use the button as a trigger for the second stage and just swap the ground wire between stage 1 and 2

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

I don't have a second stage. Setting the button up as trigger in the software is easy, just don't know how to wire it in.

cyipher

iTrader: (1)

im confused as to what you are trying to do, are you trying to use the button as a emergency 100% activation or to use the button to activate the progressive to start?

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

OK, I think I explained it poorly. I want to have 2 options...

Option1- Full nitrous using the progressive. This is what I have now, works perfectly

Option2- For bracket racing, no auto nitrous activation, just the ability to hit the bottle if I need it.

I know I can get option 2 by just hitting the master arm switch but I wanted it to be a little more convenient by being able to have the nitrous armed but not spraying til I push the button (I can do this in the software by setting activation method to button).

Does this make sense?

cyipher

iTrader: (1)

how is the 12+ going to your solenoids wired?

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

Through a relay then to battery +. As seen in first wiring diagram in this pdf:

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/.../199R10466.pdf

Everything is wired like this except I do not have the 'optional toggle switch'.

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

OK... simple.


For Option #1 - Dont touch a thing.

For Option #2 - Wire a push button onto Input #2 (white/red) on progressive. Can be to ground or +12V. Set up in the software, a 2nd stage program, that activates 100% on input #2.

When bracket racing, swap your ground to solenoids from Stage 1 to Stage 2.


I plan on using my progressive with 1 system, having 2 different programs in the progressive - just swap between stage1 programming and stage 2 programming by swapping the ground to solenoids between the Blue and Red wires out of the progressive.

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

that sounds like the ticket. Thanks very much!

mrdragster1970

.

Are you trying to run an OH **** button in case of spin when you are bracket racing??
That way if you know you won't hit the dial, you can hit the spray for a second to catch up??


.

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

Yea, pretty much so. Just for whayever reason I might need to push a fender a little ahead.

cyipher

iTrader: (1)

yup do this and wire it to a single pull double throw switch rated for the amperage your solenoids run.

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

Yep, I think I'm all set. Thanks guys!

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

Got this all set up, I hope, in the software. Button will be here tomorrow. I'll wire it up and test it at ECS in Darlington on Saturday.

If I were to set input 1 as TPS falling at .75 v and input 2 as 12volt switch would this guard against accidental activation at less than full throttle or would it just activate at full throttle? In other words, do both input conditions have to be met for activation? I currently have input 1 as ignored but would prefer the safety factor if that's how it works.

Thanks again for the help!

mrdragster1970

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I know nothing about progressives, and all the modern stuff, but I do have an OH shoot button on my car for when I spin off the line.
I don't get why you are moving wires and grounds.
On my car, if you turn on the N2O system, the button bypass's the timers and comes on as long as the button is held.
No moving wires, no worrying about forgetting something.
If you wire it direct to the final relay before the noids, you're good to go, nice & easy.
I do not like moving wires around, more to screw up.
For safety, take the power from the TPS, and you can push the button all you want, accidentally or on purpose,
it won't engage except during the pass.

Good luck.

.

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

Normally I would agree, simple is best. In this case though, I think this way will be fine. Only one wire needs swapped and its already on a QD connector. The car will be in bracket mode 90% of the time, full blast mode only for special events.

cyipher

iTrader: (1)

Both conditions must be met to activate if you have 2 set.

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

Yes must satisfy both conditions to activate. I have mine set up so the WOT switch activates when +12V applied on Input #1, and if +12V is present on input #2 from my transbrake button, it de-activates.

Works like a charm - stage, hold transbrake button, floor it, drop transbrake and nitrous activates on set program.

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks!