Just bought nitrous outlet kit. What else do I need?
12-27-2011, 05:17 AM
#1
Just bought nitrous outlet kit. What else do I need? I just bought the brand x nitrous outlet kit.. What else will I need? It's for my 1999 z28 with full bolt-ons.. So what plugs will I need? I am wanting to get the lengenfelter timing retard box for the timing. What else will be needed?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170743363757...84.m1497.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170743363757...84.m1497.l2649
12-27-2011, 05:43 AM
#2
depends what all the kit came with,
I would recommend a WOT switch, window switch and a bottle warmer and purge if it did not come with those, the purge is not a big deal but the other 3 are very much needed
you wont need injectors since its a wet kit but I would greatly recommend a upgraded fuel pump
I would recommend a WOT switch, window switch and a bottle warmer and purge if it did not come with those, the purge is not a big deal but the other 3 are very much needed
you wont need injectors since its a wet kit but I would greatly recommend a upgraded fuel pump
12-27-2011, 12:58 PM
#5
depends what all the kit came with,
I would recommend a WOT switch, window switch and a bottle warmer and purge if it did not come with those, the purge is not a big deal but the other 3 are very much needed
you wont need injectors since its a wet kit but I would greatly recommend a upgraded fuel pump
I would recommend a WOT switch, window switch and a bottle warmer and purge if it did not come with those, the purge is not a big deal but the other 3 are very much needed
you wont need injectors since its a wet kit but I would greatly recommend a upgraded fuel pump
12-27-2011, 06:06 PM
#6
So here is where I'm at. Planning to get br7ef's plugs, lengenfelter timing puller, and a bottle heater. Now what I have left to worry about is where I want to install my WOT switch. I wanna make it to where I can just push a button when I want the nitrous.
12-28-2011, 08:02 AM
#9
I play on the street so I don't use that. The same wiring that goes to the switch I bring it inside the car so I can spray when I want. I can spray out the hole or just use it to hold someone off by a car length to take their money.
12-28-2011, 08:21 AM
#10
Usually a WOT switch and window switch go hand in hand, basicly with that setup your nitrouse will only spray at WOT and between whatever RPM range you set the pills at.
there are basicly safety features to prevent blowing your motor on n20, hitting the n20 at low rpms or when not at full throttle can cause detonation and destroy your motor.
there not required but are just safety items and also keep your n20 runs consistant in the 1/4 and prevent the nitrouse spraying at to high rpms also. they are ususaly wired to a activation switch and when the switch is on you dont have to push any buttons it leaves your hands free to shift and steer the car and will activate when under WOT and in the rpm range.
you could just wire it on a activation switch and a button so that you can control the n20 with the push of a button. its not as safe but thats how it has been done for a VERY long time with the old school guys.
a bottle warmer is also a very good idea, it does quit a few things, not only does it make your n20 last longer it also keeps it consistant, the more empty your tank gets the less pressure you get and the less n2o gets sprayed each time the pressure drops thus changing your n2o fuel ratio which is not a good thing. the warmer will maintain the pressure until the bottle is empty by heating it to expand the gas more.
oh and to answer your question about plugs, stay away from plugs that have exposed rods, get plugs that have them inset into the plug. ususally 1 step colder helps some as well
you dont really need a tune but i would atleast get my air fuel ratio checked on a dyno under the n20 just to make sure its not leaning out.
there are basicly safety features to prevent blowing your motor on n20, hitting the n20 at low rpms or when not at full throttle can cause detonation and destroy your motor.
there not required but are just safety items and also keep your n20 runs consistant in the 1/4 and prevent the nitrouse spraying at to high rpms also. they are ususaly wired to a activation switch and when the switch is on you dont have to push any buttons it leaves your hands free to shift and steer the car and will activate when under WOT and in the rpm range.
you could just wire it on a activation switch and a button so that you can control the n20 with the push of a button. its not as safe but thats how it has been done for a VERY long time with the old school guys.
a bottle warmer is also a very good idea, it does quit a few things, not only does it make your n20 last longer it also keeps it consistant, the more empty your tank gets the less pressure you get and the less n2o gets sprayed each time the pressure drops thus changing your n2o fuel ratio which is not a good thing. the warmer will maintain the pressure until the bottle is empty by heating it to expand the gas more.
oh and to answer your question about plugs, stay away from plugs that have exposed rods, get plugs that have them inset into the plug. ususally 1 step colder helps some as well
you dont really need a tune but i would atleast get my air fuel ratio checked on a dyno under the n20 just to make sure its not leaning out.
12-28-2011, 08:24 AM
#11
to add another bit of info the WOT switch can work with the push button activation as well, basicly even if you push the button it wont activate until its WOT and both have to be active for it to spray, the window switch replaces the button activation and kicks in when the rpms are right instead of when you hit a button, I would recommend wiring in your WOT switch no matter how you decide to activate it, it will save your motor,
a accidental n2o hit at idle or low rpms equals BOOM
a accidental n2o hit at idle or low rpms equals BOOM
12-28-2011, 01:08 PM
#12
I most likely won't do the window switch at first. I never plan to spray from the hole or anything with it. It's more to win a little money street racing like mentioned above. So I would only spray at WOT. I'm wanting to buy some 75hp jets because that's all I will probably need usually. I might have to try out the 100 shot a couple times, but would like to keep the 75hp jets in most of the time.
12-28-2011, 01:25 PM
#13
I most likely won't do the window switch at first. I never plan to spray from the hole or anything with it. It's more to win a little money street racing like mentioned above. So I would only spray at WOT. I'm wanting to buy some 75hp jets because that's all I will probably need usually. I might have to try out the 100 shot a couple times, but would like to keep the 75hp jets in most of the time.
I had a 75 shot on a 3.1 liter v6 fwd 1996 cutlass back in the day, so why would you put a 75 shot on an LS1?
12-28-2011, 01:47 PM
#14
WHAT!!! All this info for a 75 shot? Man, you better put the 150 jets in. The old saying goes "Better to have it and not need it then to need it and not have it"
I had a 75 shot on a 3.1 liter v6 fwd 1996 cutlass back in the day, so why would you put a 75 shot on an LS1?
I had a 75 shot on a 3.1 liter v6 fwd 1996 cutlass back in the day, so why would you put a 75 shot on an LS1?
12-28-2011, 05:04 PM
#19
The car had 63000 when he bought it and the car had all the mods done to it right at about 70-75000. It wasn't his daily driver so it didn't get many miles afterward. So I would say at about in the almost 80-90k range the trans went and we put another stock one in and it went for a good while then we put in a built trans and its going still till this day with 100k plus still running mid 10's on the bottle.
