what should i run on 150 shot
02-05-2012, 09:40 PM
#1
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what should i run on 150 shot i have a 99 ws6 with slp lid, 9" with 4.11s,ls6 intake, long tubes, 3" all the way out to maggies,3400 rev maxx converter,tune - suspension i have sphon torque arm and lower adj control arms.... i run 1/8th mile only, right now n/a i run a 8.0 with a 1.85 60ft spin out the hole with mt 275/60/15 drag radials on 15x10s pro stars... im going to a full slick and i bought a tnt f2 kit what will i run if a get my 60ft down and my n/a time to 7.8.....with a tnt 150 shot on full slick...
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02-06-2012, 08:05 PM
#11
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moser 9" with 33 spline axles,4.11s ,1350 yoke,sphon torque arm tunnel mount with loop,adj rear control arms, stock height, no rear sway bar,stock phb, bullsh** air shock with line cut....i getting the Competition Engineering shocks with week..and adj phb.. burnout 1st about 4500rpm them shift into secound from 2-3 secound when round out...motor 99 ws6 with slp lid, ,ls6 intake, long tubes, 3" all the way out to maggies,3400 rev maxx converter,tune
02-06-2012, 08:13 PM
#12
you need a rear sway bar bad....
its extremely important for being able to hook up off the line...even more important to be able to launch straight and even
without it... really not a lot of hope of getting a good launch
I suggest the BMR Extreme Duty anti-roll bar, but feel free to get whatever fits your budget best.
you would benefit from an adjustable panhard, but it just keeps the rear centered better and keeps it from walking around while in motion.
does your 9" have LCA relocation brackets on it?
you need them to be able to get LCA geometry correct...
adjustable shocks for front and rear will help as well
prefer something like a Qa1, but the comp engineering shock do pretty dam good usually till you are down in the 9's
what tranmission? I can only guess at an M6 with seeing the 4.11
which makes it a little tougher to hook at the line unless you get the suspension correct or unless you are good at slipping the clutch and not just doing a 5k dump..LOL
its extremely important for being able to hook up off the line...even more important to be able to launch straight and even
without it... really not a lot of hope of getting a good launch
I suggest the BMR Extreme Duty anti-roll bar, but feel free to get whatever fits your budget best.
you would benefit from an adjustable panhard, but it just keeps the rear centered better and keeps it from walking around while in motion.
does your 9" have LCA relocation brackets on it?
you need them to be able to get LCA geometry correct...
adjustable shocks for front and rear will help as well
prefer something like a Qa1, but the comp engineering shock do pretty dam good usually till you are down in the 9's
what tranmission? I can only guess at an M6 with seeing the 4.11
which makes it a little tougher to hook at the line unless you get the suspension correct or unless you are good at slipping the clutch and not just doing a 5k dump..LOL
02-06-2012, 08:45 PM
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you need a rear sway bar bad....
its extremely important for being able to hook up off the line...even more important to be able to launch straight and even
without it... really not a lot of hope of getting a good launch
I suggest the BMR Extreme Duty anti-roll bar, but feel free to get whatever fits your budget best.
you would benefit from an adjustable panhard, but it just keeps the rear centered better and keeps it from walking around while in motion.
does your 9" have LCA relocation brackets on it?
you need them to be able to get LCA geometry correct...
adjustable shocks for front and rear will help as well
prefer something like a Qa1, but the comp engineering shock do pretty dam good usually till you are down in the 9's
what tranmission? I can only guess at an M6 with seeing the 4.11
which makes it a little tougher to hook at the line unless you get the suspension correct or unless you are good at slipping the clutch and not just doing a 5k dump..LOL
its extremely important for being able to hook up off the line...even more important to be able to launch straight and even
without it... really not a lot of hope of getting a good launch
I suggest the BMR Extreme Duty anti-roll bar, but feel free to get whatever fits your budget best.
you would benefit from an adjustable panhard, but it just keeps the rear centered better and keeps it from walking around while in motion.
does your 9" have LCA relocation brackets on it?
you need them to be able to get LCA geometry correct...
adjustable shocks for front and rear will help as well
prefer something like a Qa1, but the comp engineering shock do pretty dam good usually till you are down in the 9's
what tranmission? I can only guess at an M6 with seeing the 4.11
which makes it a little tougher to hook at the line unless you get the suspension correct or unless you are good at slipping the clutch and not just doing a 5k dump..LOL
ok 4l65e with 3400 rev maxx converter
02-06-2012, 08:51 PM
#14
yeah.. with an auto... hooking up should not be that much of a challenge...
that leads to suspension issues...
get that stuff sorted out, and then start dropping the tire pressure some...20 is a wee bit too much to get any good traction off the line...
start around 17 with those and work downwards till it hooks up best...
I'd be willing to bet around 15 or 16 will probably be the magic number..might even get downwards of 14 if its the older compound...
that leads to suspension issues...
get that stuff sorted out, and then start dropping the tire pressure some...20 is a wee bit too much to get any good traction off the line...
start around 17 with those and work downwards till it hooks up best...
I'd be willing to bet around 15 or 16 will probably be the magic number..might even get downwards of 14 if its the older compound...
02-15-2012, 01:08 PM
#16
moser 9" with 33 spline axles,4.11s ,1350 yoke,sphon torque arm tunnel mount with loop,adj rear control arms, stock height, no rear sway bar,stock phb, bullsh** air shock with line cut....i getting the Competition Engineering shocks with week..and adj phb.. burnout 1st about 4500rpm them shift into secound from 2-3 secound when round out...motor 99 ws6 with slp lid, ,ls6 intake, long tubes, 3" all the way out to maggies,3400 rev maxx converter,tune
Dont go crazy with the burnout on the DRs, They like to be hot but you can overdue it. Just hold it in first for a couple seconds and getem smoking and your good.
02-15-2012, 01:15 PM
#17
I Ran 1180s with a 88camaro, Stock sb400 rv cam from suburban, no stall, 273 gears, open diff. 175hp shot on DRs.
I brought my own trac bite. had a buddy poor a little in front of each tire, i did one little burn out with one tire, rolled two feet then did the other tire. then squeezed off the line!!. 11.84! 118mph. all motor it ran 14.5!!!!
I brought my own trac bite. had a buddy poor a little in front of each tire, i did one little burn out with one tire, rolled two feet then did the other tire. then squeezed off the line!!. 11.84! 118mph. all motor it ran 14.5!!!!
02-15-2012, 06:22 PM
#18
THIS!!.. .sort of...
Tire speed helps with getting heat before smoke..
you can get smoke at a pretty low speed and not get them hot enough..
what you want to do is get enough tire speed to get it hot, but not make a lot of smoke
for me, being an automatic, its a lot easier... I just set the line lock and mash my foot... I see 100mph usually in a burn out and as soon as it starts to smoke I let off the line lock and get out of the gas.
its a little tougher in a manual car... need to do the burnout in 2nd gear if possible.
02-15-2012, 06:54 PM
#19
Are you serious that you don't have a rear sway bar?
How does that thing drive on the street let alone launch at the track in a straight line?
Adjustable shocks will do you more good than anything else at this point.
I'd really try to get a set of QA1 R series single adjustable shocks over the comp engineering shocks. Even though QA1 isn't considered top of the line it's a better product than those.
How does that thing drive on the street let alone launch at the track in a straight line?
Adjustable shocks will do you more good than anything else at this point.
I'd really try to get a set of QA1 R series single adjustable shocks over the comp engineering shocks. Even though QA1 isn't considered top of the line it's a better product than those.