check out this plug...
04-23-2012, 09:23 PM
#24
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Another priceless thread....at least for me it is. I thought the OP's plugs were on track...knowledge and lack of run hand and hand while learning. Damn, i think I know just enough to be dangerous....to my engine that is. I am going to do more tuning on my 150 shot before upping the jets to 200 also. Thanks again everyone.
Tre
Tre
04-24-2012, 06:08 PM
#27
04-24-2012, 08:55 PM
#29
What was that you said, live and learn?
Question Carter, because I like picking your brain; Where would you say the timing mark is on that strap? Centered directly before the bend, right before that, or closer to the tip?
When you are looking for a definite timing mark what visual markers are you looking for?
I have learned over time how to read heat on the strap by the cadium plating burning off and (I'm going to call them heat bubbles) start to show before they turn ashy.
If I'm looking at that picture right I am just starting to see those "heat bubbles" on the very tip of that strap.
Does that sound right or am I totally off?
04-26-2012, 01:38 AM
#30
Lots of good info in here. However a how to for plug reading would be great someone should make a thread just for plug reading. I'm in the process of learning so I can start spraying this baby but the only way to learn how is to catch some threads like this. But there is no real explanation. So i'm not completely sure on what to look for.
04-26-2012, 05:36 AM
#31
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Lots of good info in here. However a how to for plug reading would be great someone should make a thread just for plug reading. I'm in the process of learning so I can start spraying this baby but the only way to learn how is to catch some threads like this. But there is no real explanation. So i'm not completely sure on what to look for.
04-26-2012, 11:08 AM
#32
The porcelain is easy to read.
What you are looking for is the fuel ring at the base of the porcelain where you have cut the plug open at its base. A dark fat ring indicates that the motor is rich, the lighter and smaller the ring get's the more you are leaning out the motor. You really want almost no fuel ring and just a hint and I mean a hint faint fuel ring line. Some are more pronounced because of the coloring of the race fuels sometimes, but this is what you are looking for. Now as you lean the motor out and get the porcelain cleaner and cleaner, you will begin to see more and more heat on the strap of the plug. This will 9/10 necessitate that the timing needs to be backed off and/or a colder heat range plug used until the heat on the strap and timing mark is back acceptable and in range of what you want your tune to do.
This is the WOT fuel ring. As you move further up the porcelain you get into cruising fueling and at the very top of the porcelain is your idle fuel ring.
Now since we aren't worried about idle or part throttle this is the reason why we say, put a new plug in right before you get in the staging lanes or in the lanes, and to shut it down as soon as you cross the stripe.
This way you are almost entirely eliminating the idle and part throttle fuel rings and only getting the WOT fuel ring.
Guys that pull/push their cars to the lanes and then cut them on at the water box get the most out of this method as there is little to no idle time on them.
This is also another reason why the nitrous guys are constantly revving up their motors in staging to keep the plug as clean as possible, and to motor purge their systems.
What you are looking for is the fuel ring at the base of the porcelain where you have cut the plug open at its base. A dark fat ring indicates that the motor is rich, the lighter and smaller the ring get's the more you are leaning out the motor. You really want almost no fuel ring and just a hint and I mean a hint faint fuel ring line. Some are more pronounced because of the coloring of the race fuels sometimes, but this is what you are looking for. Now as you lean the motor out and get the porcelain cleaner and cleaner, you will begin to see more and more heat on the strap of the plug. This will 9/10 necessitate that the timing needs to be backed off and/or a colder heat range plug used until the heat on the strap and timing mark is back acceptable and in range of what you want your tune to do.
This is the WOT fuel ring. As you move further up the porcelain you get into cruising fueling and at the very top of the porcelain is your idle fuel ring.
Now since we aren't worried about idle or part throttle this is the reason why we say, put a new plug in right before you get in the staging lanes or in the lanes, and to shut it down as soon as you cross the stripe.
This way you are almost entirely eliminating the idle and part throttle fuel rings and only getting the WOT fuel ring.
Guys that pull/push their cars to the lanes and then cut them on at the water box get the most out of this method as there is little to no idle time on them.
This is also another reason why the nitrous guys are constantly revving up their motors in staging to keep the plug as clean as possible, and to motor purge their systems.
04-26-2012, 01:06 PM
#33
so, I last nite I created a spreadsheet based on nitrous/fuel pressures, jetting, and known data from testing my plate. I set up the spreadsheet so I could vary all pressures and jetting and see a resulting relative AFR for the given nitrous/fuel.
Knowing that the 78/44 combo for my car resulted in a reasonable AFR of 11.4, I extrapolated the following data:
some of these combos will require a 1 or 2 psi drop in FP to achieve roughly 11.8 AFR:
I'm going on Sat and test a few of these.
If you have tested any of these combos and can confirm them, post up.
50 35/19
100 52/29
150 62/35
200 78/44
225 82/46
250 88/49
300 93/52
325 99/56
350 110/62
Knowing that the 78/44 combo for my car resulted in a reasonable AFR of 11.4, I extrapolated the following data:
some of these combos will require a 1 or 2 psi drop in FP to achieve roughly 11.8 AFR:
I'm going on Sat and test a few of these.
If you have tested any of these combos and can confirm them, post up.
50 35/19
100 52/29
150 62/35
200 78/44
225 82/46
250 88/49
300 93/52
325 99/56
350 110/62
04-26-2012, 06:27 PM
#35
Carter I know your stuff runs good but I have a question.
Being the efficiency of an LS cylinder head I've seen where they dont always like as much timing as you have there showing on the strap.
Have you experimented with less, to see if trap speed picks up?
Being the efficiency of an LS cylinder head I've seen where they dont always like as much timing as you have there showing on the strap.
Have you experimented with less, to see if trap speed picks up?
04-26-2012, 08:02 PM
#36
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The porcelain is easy to read.
What you are looking for is the fuel ring at the base of the porcelain where you have cut the plug open at its base. A dark fat ring indicates that the motor is rich, the lighter and smaller the ring get's the more you are leaning out the motor. You really want almost no fuel ring and just a hint and I mean a hint faint fuel ring line. Some are more pronounced because of the coloring of the race fuels sometimes, but this is what you are looking for. Now as you lean the motor out and get the porcelain cleaner and cleaner, you will begin to see more and more heat on the strap of the plug. This will 9/10 necessitate that the timing needs to be backed off and/or a colder heat range plug used until the heat on the strap and timing mark is back acceptable and in range of what you want your tune to do.
This is the WOT fuel ring. As you move further up the porcelain you get into cruising fueling and at the very top of the porcelain is your idle fuel ring.
Now since we aren't worried about idle or part throttle this is the reason why we say, put a new plug in right before you get in the staging lanes or in the lanes, and to shut it down as soon as you cross the stripe.
This way you are almost entirely eliminating the idle and part throttle fuel rings and only getting the WOT fuel ring.
Guys that pull/push their cars to the lanes and then cut them on at the water box get the most out of this method as there is little to no idle time on them.
This is also another reason why the nitrous guys are constantly revving up their motors in staging to keep the plug as clean as possible, and to motor purge their systems.
What you are looking for is the fuel ring at the base of the porcelain where you have cut the plug open at its base. A dark fat ring indicates that the motor is rich, the lighter and smaller the ring get's the more you are leaning out the motor. You really want almost no fuel ring and just a hint and I mean a hint faint fuel ring line. Some are more pronounced because of the coloring of the race fuels sometimes, but this is what you are looking for. Now as you lean the motor out and get the porcelain cleaner and cleaner, you will begin to see more and more heat on the strap of the plug. This will 9/10 necessitate that the timing needs to be backed off and/or a colder heat range plug used until the heat on the strap and timing mark is back acceptable and in range of what you want your tune to do.
This is the WOT fuel ring. As you move further up the porcelain you get into cruising fueling and at the very top of the porcelain is your idle fuel ring.
Now since we aren't worried about idle or part throttle this is the reason why we say, put a new plug in right before you get in the staging lanes or in the lanes, and to shut it down as soon as you cross the stripe.
This way you are almost entirely eliminating the idle and part throttle fuel rings and only getting the WOT fuel ring.
Guys that pull/push their cars to the lanes and then cut them on at the water box get the most out of this method as there is little to no idle time on them.
This is also another reason why the nitrous guys are constantly revving up their motors in staging to keep the plug as clean as possible, and to motor purge their systems.
04-28-2012, 06:21 PM
#40
More data. I've got a lot of progressive dialed in on launch, but the general setup on this day was 9 deg, 56.5psi(standalone), 88/48, ~10.5-11.0 AFR, B9EFS, 0.028". The engine was running ~good overall. 1 or 2 more trips out and she is ready for race day.
URL To actual run:
(btw, I've been told this is really 143mph at my track, as numbers are faster than reported)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=db3U6...ature=youtu.be
Same plug pic 1 and 2:
URL To actual run:
(btw, I've been told this is really 143mph at my track, as numbers are faster than reported)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=db3U6...ature=youtu.be
Same plug pic 1 and 2:
Last edited by 03EBZ06; 04-28-2012 at 06:30 PM.