I'm begining to think my converter is too tight...
06-20-2012, 06:30 PM
#1
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I'm begining to think my converter is too tight... I made it out to the track and I didnt do the greatest. It was pretty humid and the DA was around 2800 but i still think my car should've ran better. I went 10.48 with a 1.59 60' @ 134 mph with 16 degrees total timing. I have basically full suspension on the car besides k member and a arms. I dont have the best rear shocks (comp engineering 3 wat adjustable) but i still think it should be running faster and have a better 60'. i foot brake it to 2000 rpm and my nitrous is activated by a WOT switch. what do you guys think?? i was hoping to be able to hit a high 9 on a 200 shot.
My set-up consists of:
forged stock cube ls1 in a f body
prc 2.5 ls6 heads
ms3 cam
pro yank 3600
9" with a 3.73 gear
qa1 12 way adjustable front shocks
and its around 3600 lbs race weight
My set-up consists of:
forged stock cube ls1 in a f body
prc 2.5 ls6 heads
ms3 cam
pro yank 3600
9" with a 3.73 gear
qa1 12 way adjustable front shocks
and its around 3600 lbs race weight
06-20-2012, 08:22 PM
#3
The reason it probably isn't 60'ing like it should and the converter seems tighter is because of how hot it is outside.
Are you pulling a set number of timing across the board or are you ramping the timing retard in?
Do you data log the car? If so I/we need to know what rpm the car is at when it registers 1-5mph on the data log. This will give you a good idea of what rpm the stall is flashing too off the hit. Without this info I can't tell you if it is too loose or tight.
Are you pulling a set number of timing across the board or are you ramping the timing retard in?
Do you data log the car? If so I/we need to know what rpm the car is at when it registers 1-5mph on the data log. This will give you a good idea of what rpm the stall is flashing too off the hit. Without this info I can't tell you if it is too loose or tight.
06-20-2012, 11:29 PM
#4
Seems to me the car is down MPH to be running 9s regardless of 60'.. if you 60' poorly 9 times out of 10 you mph higher. For a car as heavy as yours to run 9s, I think you need to be going almost 136 or more.
With that said, are you flashing the converter? Or just sitting on the stall and flat footing it?
What does your nitrous tune up look like? Plugs, jets, pressure, timing retard?
Otherwise, if you can 60' low 1.40s which you should be able to do. That puts you right at or real close to your 9.90s.
With that said, are you flashing the converter? Or just sitting on the stall and flat footing it?
What does your nitrous tune up look like? Plugs, jets, pressure, timing retard?
Otherwise, if you can 60' low 1.40s which you should be able to do. That puts you right at or real close to your 9.90s.
06-20-2012, 11:31 PM
#5
Also, did you loosen up the front end as much as you could? Is it spinning, bogging, hooking then unloading?
If it's hooking and unloading, maybe try and throw a 50lb sand bag in your trunk..(put it in a garbage bag or two first so it doesn't make a mess.)
I know you don't always wanna add weight, but it would help band aid those poor rear shocks.
If it's hooking and unloading, maybe try and throw a 50lb sand bag in your trunk..(put it in a garbage bag or two first so it doesn't make a mess.)
I know you don't always wanna add weight, but it would help band aid those poor rear shocks.
06-21-2012, 09:20 AM
#6
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The reason it probably isn't 60'ing like it should and the converter seems tighter is because of how hot it is outside.
Are you pulling a set number of timing across the board or are you ramping the timing retard in?
Do you data log the car? If so I/we need to know what rpm the car is at when it registers 1-5mph on the data log. This will give you a good idea of what rpm the stall is flashing too off the hit. Without this info I can't tell you if it is too loose or tight.
Are you pulling a set number of timing across the board or are you ramping the timing retard in?
Do you data log the car? If so I/we need to know what rpm the car is at when it registers 1-5mph on the data log. This will give you a good idea of what rpm the stall is flashing too off the hit. Without this info I can't tell you if it is too loose or tight.
unfortunately i dont have access to any tuning software so i cant data log.
06-21-2012, 09:26 AM
#7
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Seems to me the car is down MPH to be running 9s regardless of 60'.. if you 60' poorly 9 times out of 10 you mph higher. For a car as heavy as yours to run 9s, I think you need to be going almost 136 or more.
With that said, are you flashing the converter? Or just sitting on the stall and flat footing it?
What does your nitrous tune up look like? Plugs, jets, pressure, timing retard?
Otherwise, if you can 60' low 1.40s which you should be able to do. That puts you right at or real close to your 9.90s.
With that said, are you flashing the converter? Or just sitting on the stall and flat footing it?
What does your nitrous tune up look like? Plugs, jets, pressure, timing retard?
Otherwise, if you can 60' low 1.40s which you should be able to do. That puts you right at or real close to your 9.90s.
No, i cant flash the converter because it doesnt get to a high enough rpm before the nitrous kicks in so i have to stall it up and flat foot it.
the tune up is pretty good, it might be a little on the rich side but my timing mark is perfect, i run b9efs plugs gaped to 30 and i run the pressure around 950 psi and 16 degrees total timing.
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06-21-2012, 09:29 AM
#8
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Also, did you loosen up the front end as much as you could? Is it spinning, bogging, hooking then unloading?
If it's hooking and unloading, maybe try and throw a 50lb sand bag in your trunk..(put it in a garbage bag or two first so it doesn't make a mess.)
I know you don't always wanna add weight, but it would help band aid those poor rear shocks.
If it's hooking and unloading, maybe try and throw a 50lb sand bag in your trunk..(put it in a garbage bag or two first so it doesn't make a mess.)
I know you don't always wanna add weight, but it would help band aid those poor rear shocks.
06-21-2012, 09:42 AM
#9
Tighten them up a click at a time in the rear until it slows down or spins.
When you say you can't flash it, I think what he meant was stall it up to 1200-1500rpm and then let the converters flash do the work for you instead of stalling it up closer to where it stops flashing.
I have found on nitrous letting the car get a run at the converters peak flash point as in leaving a big gap in rpm between where you stage the car to leave and where it flashes to track prep and track surface willing it will go faster doing this.
Try letting it get a run at the converter on your current settings. If the 60' doesn't pick up try tightening the shocks as I said above in this post.
If that doesn't work you need to look at your timing table and try to put a degree or two more in it at the rpm the car leaves at and then bring it back down to 16* from redline to where your converter falls to rpm wise when you shift into 2nd and 3rd. So say you leave at 3000rpm, add a degree or two from 3200-4000rpm and keep it in the motor until 4800-5200 and then pull that degree or two back out at the rpm your motor falls to on the 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift and keep it out as you did before until your shift point or redline or 8000rpm.
That way you will have the same amount of timing you did down track, but off the line you will have a little more oomph to get the 60' down. It is ok to do this at this rpm as there isn't as much cylinder pressure built, but you will want to pull it back out right before peak torque which is probably around 5200rpm on your car and keep it at 16* to where you shift or again redline(our timing tables stop at 8000rpm)
When you say you can't flash it, I think what he meant was stall it up to 1200-1500rpm and then let the converters flash do the work for you instead of stalling it up closer to where it stops flashing.
I have found on nitrous letting the car get a run at the converters peak flash point as in leaving a big gap in rpm between where you stage the car to leave and where it flashes to track prep and track surface willing it will go faster doing this.
Try letting it get a run at the converter on your current settings. If the 60' doesn't pick up try tightening the shocks as I said above in this post.
If that doesn't work you need to look at your timing table and try to put a degree or two more in it at the rpm the car leaves at and then bring it back down to 16* from redline to where your converter falls to rpm wise when you shift into 2nd and 3rd. So say you leave at 3000rpm, add a degree or two from 3200-4000rpm and keep it in the motor until 4800-5200 and then pull that degree or two back out at the rpm your motor falls to on the 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift and keep it out as you did before until your shift point or redline or 8000rpm.
That way you will have the same amount of timing you did down track, but off the line you will have a little more oomph to get the 60' down. It is ok to do this at this rpm as there isn't as much cylinder pressure built, but you will want to pull it back out right before peak torque which is probably around 5200rpm on your car and keep it at 16* to where you shift or again redline(our timing tables stop at 8000rpm)
06-21-2012, 09:53 AM
#10
Like Fbodyjunkie said... Try and pretend it's a clutch car. Hold it at like 1500, and as the lights are coming down put your foot thru the firewall and let go of the brake at the same time. Like you're side stepping the clutch.
I would still say loosen the front up as much as you can, those rear shocks need all the help they can get.
I've got a customer with a 3rd gen and a 900hp bbc that's been 1.2X's with those rear shocks, and I will tell you.. It's all in the front end travel..
I would still say loosen the front up as much as you can, those rear shocks need all the help they can get.
I've got a customer with a 3rd gen and a 900hp bbc that's been 1.2X's with those rear shocks, and I will tell you.. It's all in the front end travel..
06-21-2012, 10:15 AM
#11
Launching!
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thanks a ton for your help guys! i was really disappointed in my car, I will do exactly what you guys are telling me. I think its a really good idea to ramp in more timing at the lower rpms. my goal is to be in the mid to low 1.4s
06-21-2012, 04:49 PM
#14
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no im not using a progressive or window switch. only a WOT switch. do you think thats a little too much timing for the rpm? what about motor timing up until 3000 rpm?
