I'm finally ready to spray my car. Hows this setup?
07-19-2012, 07:27 PM
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I'm finally ready to spray my car. Hows this setup? I built this car to run 10.0 index and bracket race. I also intended to spray it from day one. As some of you may have noticed I have been lurking around here this past week. I have been looking up old post getting info and data to use to guide me in tuning my car on the spray.
I am starting with a 57n jet and will slowly work my way from there. I would like to be able to run true street and spray it to a high 8 or low 9 sec avg.
The motor setup: 13.5:1 eagle bottom end with diamond pistons, AFR 205's with much additional work done, cam 248/258 .650" 112+2, super victor, QFT 950 carb, kooks 1 7/8" 3" x with bullets, Edlebrock RPM performer plate (100-250 jets) dedicated holley hp125 fuel pump -6 an line, nano 4500 bottle, nos mini controller.
The trans: th400 rmvb 4500 stall, with a brake, I leave at 4200 and it will 60' 1.31-1.42 on a bad track all motor. 4.10 gear with a 325/55/15 hoosier dr.
My motor likes timing. I run it at 32-36 deg of timing through the MSD 6010 box.
My tune up for starters I want to run the 57n jet and a 62f at 27 deg of timing. 5.5 lbs at the plate flowing through the noid and the jet into a gas can. This is with the nano bottle in play. I want to stick with the 110 leaded fuel and ngk br7 plug. I also have several sets of br8 plugs also.
I will stick with 1/8 mile passes killing it just past the line at wot and coasting off/pull back for plug evaluation. I will try to keep a few from each run so I can cut it open later.
How does this tune up sound to start with? Any other things I should do?
I got kit wired to were it does not come on while on the brake. And the window switch is going to be set at 3000 so it comes on as soon as I let off the trans brake.
Should I go 100% out of the hole since it is a 100 shot or should I do 50% for 2 sec then 100%?
This is not my first experience with nitrous. I had a 4th gen that I sprayed a few dozen times to the 10.80 range. So I know enough to be dangerous lol. But I have a lot to learn and look forward to all the help and advice I can get.
Thanks in advance.
I am starting with a 57n jet and will slowly work my way from there. I would like to be able to run true street and spray it to a high 8 or low 9 sec avg.
The motor setup: 13.5:1 eagle bottom end with diamond pistons, AFR 205's with much additional work done, cam 248/258 .650" 112+2, super victor, QFT 950 carb, kooks 1 7/8" 3" x with bullets, Edlebrock RPM performer plate (100-250 jets) dedicated holley hp125 fuel pump -6 an line, nano 4500 bottle, nos mini controller.
The trans: th400 rmvb 4500 stall, with a brake, I leave at 4200 and it will 60' 1.31-1.42 on a bad track all motor. 4.10 gear with a 325/55/15 hoosier dr.
My motor likes timing. I run it at 32-36 deg of timing through the MSD 6010 box.
My tune up for starters I want to run the 57n jet and a 62f at 27 deg of timing. 5.5 lbs at the plate flowing through the noid and the jet into a gas can. This is with the nano bottle in play. I want to stick with the 110 leaded fuel and ngk br7 plug. I also have several sets of br8 plugs also.
I will stick with 1/8 mile passes killing it just past the line at wot and coasting off/pull back for plug evaluation. I will try to keep a few from each run so I can cut it open later.
How does this tune up sound to start with? Any other things I should do?
I got kit wired to were it does not come on while on the brake. And the window switch is going to be set at 3000 so it comes on as soon as I let off the trans brake.
Should I go 100% out of the hole since it is a 100 shot or should I do 50% for 2 sec then 100%?
This is not my first experience with nitrous. I had a 4th gen that I sprayed a few dozen times to the 10.80 range. So I know enough to be dangerous lol. But I have a lot to learn and look forward to all the help and advice I can get.
Thanks in advance.
07-19-2012, 07:34 PM
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I am going to try to do my best to video all runs and take pics of the plugs and doc the tune on each pic. I will try to be very precise with the info. I know that is needed to be able to help someone out lol.
07-19-2012, 07:39 PM
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The more pics.and info in this thread the better I'm a nitrous noob but will be spraying next year sometime so any pictures and info you leave will be looked over by me for refrence good luck my friend
07-20-2012, 12:25 AM
#4
Straight out the hole.
That tune up will be insanely rich with the fuel jet bigger than the nitrous jet. You should switch them around and try it out like that with 62n 57f.
At your compression you need to be using a B8EFS to start with even on the small shot.
You're probably going to find as you go up in shot size that you having 13.5:1 compression it isn't going to like 110 and will need a dedicated nitrous fuel or at least C16.
Everything else sounds good. I know you are kind of weary about what we were telling you AFR wise in the other thread, but as long as you are dilligent with the plug reading running it leaner will always always make more power.
That tune up will be insanely rich with the fuel jet bigger than the nitrous jet. You should switch them around and try it out like that with 62n 57f.
At your compression you need to be using a B8EFS to start with even on the small shot.
You're probably going to find as you go up in shot size that you having 13.5:1 compression it isn't going to like 110 and will need a dedicated nitrous fuel or at least C16.
Everything else sounds good. I know you are kind of weary about what we were telling you AFR wise in the other thread, but as long as you are dilligent with the plug reading running it leaner will always always make more power.
07-20-2012, 07:09 AM
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Edlebrocks chart for this kit is squared up. The nano people said to add a little on the fuel side to compensate for the higher psi going to the plate.
I do have a set of br8 plugs I can put in. I will put them in to be on the safe side. I should prob get some 9's soon as well.
I was going to use c14 or c16 for anything higher that the 57n jet. I will try the 110 for starters and pay close attention for det.
I would like to be in the 11.5:1 range for starters and start leaning it out from there.
I do have a set of br8 plugs I can put in. I will put them in to be on the safe side. I should prob get some 9's soon as well.
I was going to use c14 or c16 for anything higher that the 57n jet. I will try the 110 for starters and pay close attention for det.
I would like to be in the 11.5:1 range for starters and start leaning it out from there.
07-20-2012, 07:12 AM
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When it gets close, does turning the reg down 1/4 turn at a time lean it out?
Like most people, I do not have a whole box full of nitrous jets lying around lol.
Like most people, I do not have a whole box full of nitrous jets lying around lol.
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07-20-2012, 11:31 AM
#8
Even though edelbrocks jetting is squared up that is all wrong.
If you ask Steve Johnson or Dave@nitrous outlet, jeff prock, switzer, Monte Smith, they will ALL tell you that squared jetting is ****. It will leave you with a lifted ring land if the shot is big enough from being way too rich.
Even with the Nano, most tune-ups are based off of 900-950psi and the nano will put you at 1050psi. I have found bottle pressure doesn't make a huge change in afr as you would think it would. Jet and fuel pressure really are what makes the difference. Timing can also affect afr as it will speed or slow up the burn rate.
From what I have seen and read most people end up with 10% more fuel jet just to compensate for the added bottle pressure the nano creates.
I would run a 13.5:1 compression motor on 110 on motor alone and at the least with a BR7EF plug on motor. Once you get past the -7 heat range taper seat NGK's for our motors they no longer use the 'R' designation as they are no longer resistor style plugs. The B8EFS and B9EFS do not have a resistor like a TR6, BR6EF or a BR7EF do thus the 'R' denotation.
You might be able to get away with it, but I had a buddy who had a 14:1 CR ETP headed motor and he tried spraying a 100 shot on it with 110 and it would just eat pistons and valves alive each time he tried. He finally ended up lowering the compression back to stock compression because he was so frustrated with it.
07-20-2012, 12:43 PM
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Straight out the hole.
That tune up will be insanely rich with the fuel jet bigger than the nitrous jet. You should switch them around and try it out like that with 62n 57f.
At your compression you need to be using a B8EFS to start with even on the small shot.
You're probably going to find as you go up in shot size that you having 13.5:1 compression it isn't going to like 110 and will need a dedicated nitrous fuel or at least C16.
Everything else sounds good. I know you are kind of weary about what we were telling you AFR wise in the other thread, but as long as you are dilligent with the plug reading running it leaner will always always make more power.
That tune up will be insanely rich with the fuel jet bigger than the nitrous jet. You should switch them around and try it out like that with 62n 57f.
At your compression you need to be using a B8EFS to start with even on the small shot.
You're probably going to find as you go up in shot size that you having 13.5:1 compression it isn't going to like 110 and will need a dedicated nitrous fuel or at least C16.
Everything else sounds good. I know you are kind of weary about what we were telling you AFR wise in the other thread, but as long as you are dilligent with the plug reading running it leaner will always always make more power.
07-20-2012, 04:50 PM
#10
This.
Even though edelbrocks jetting is squared up that is all wrong.
If you ask Steve Johnson or Dave@nitrous outlet, jeff prock, switzer, Monte Smith, they will ALL tell you that squared jetting is ****. It will leave you with a lifted ring land if the shot is big enough from being way too rich.
Even with the Nano, most tune-ups are based off of 900-950psi and the nano will put you at 1050psi. I have found bottle pressure doesn't make a huge change in afr as you would think it would. Jet and fuel pressure really are what makes the difference. Timing can also affect afr as it will speed or slow up the burn rate.
From what I have seen and read most people end up with 10% more fuel jet just to compensate for the added bottle pressure the nano creates.
I would run a 13.5:1 compression motor on 110 on motor alone and at the least with a BR7EF plug on motor. Once you get past the -7 heat range taper seat NGK's for our motors they no longer use the 'R' designation as they are no longer resistor style plugs. The B8EFS and B9EFS do not have a resistor like a TR6, BR6EF or a BR7EF do thus the 'R' denotation.
You might be able to get away with it, but I had a buddy who had a 14:1 CR ETP headed motor and he tried spraying a 100 shot on it with 110 and it would just eat pistons and valves alive each time he tried. He finally ended up lowering the compression back to stock compression because he was so frustrated with it.
Even though edelbrocks jetting is squared up that is all wrong.
If you ask Steve Johnson or Dave@nitrous outlet, jeff prock, switzer, Monte Smith, they will ALL tell you that squared jetting is ****. It will leave you with a lifted ring land if the shot is big enough from being way too rich.
Even with the Nano, most tune-ups are based off of 900-950psi and the nano will put you at 1050psi. I have found bottle pressure doesn't make a huge change in afr as you would think it would. Jet and fuel pressure really are what makes the difference. Timing can also affect afr as it will speed or slow up the burn rate.
From what I have seen and read most people end up with 10% more fuel jet just to compensate for the added bottle pressure the nano creates.
I would run a 13.5:1 compression motor on 110 on motor alone and at the least with a BR7EF plug on motor. Once you get past the -7 heat range taper seat NGK's for our motors they no longer use the 'R' designation as they are no longer resistor style plugs. The B8EFS and B9EFS do not have a resistor like a TR6, BR6EF or a BR7EF do thus the 'R' denotation.
You might be able to get away with it, but I had a buddy who had a 14:1 CR ETP headed motor and he tried spraying a 100 shot on it with 110 and it would just eat pistons and valves alive each time he tried. He finally ended up lowering the compression back to stock compression because he was so frustrated with it.
07-20-2012, 06:28 PM
#12
Please leave your comments out of this thread.
You mean like when you melted the straps off your plugs like a snow-cone in hell with those plugs and compression on nitrous in your motor.
Just to re-cap your comments:
13.5:1 compression
NA timing of 32-36 degrees
TR6 plug
100 shot
07-20-2012, 07:26 PM
#13
It took a 250 or 350 shot to melt a few tr6 plugs. With 13.67 compression. And low 50cc chambers.
What's your compression?
My point it. I'm speaking from personal experience with a high compression ls motor. Which you have none of.
What's your compression?
My point it. I'm speaking from personal experience with a high compression ls motor. Which you have none of.
07-20-2012, 11:49 PM
#17
Give me a month and a half and I will have 12:1 compression so I can bitch slap some knowledge into you for your "you don't have any experience with comments" If that's the best reason you can give for saying I'm wrong because I don't have a high compression motor it shows how much of an idiot you truly are.
Everyone here has told you the same.
You're a fucktard and you're ruining the op's thread by giving HORRENDOUS advice.
Cam or another mod please tell this retard to stop giving such horrible advice or go somewhere else where it's welcome because it isn't here.
How fast is your car again? I bet my low compression "tin can" as you call it will suck the paint off your **** even with your new turbo. Bet that.
I truly am sick of your **** and horrible advice.
Last edited by Fbodyjunkie06; 07-20-2012 at 11:56 PM.
07-21-2012, 12:02 AM
#18
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Well, I switched the plugs out to the 8's to be safe and I set the reg to 5.5 through a 59f jet from the 62 that was in it. I am going to take it out some were close so I can make some very light test hits.
The timing is at 27 deg.
The timing is at 27 deg.