1BAD98TA

iTrader: (11)

(UPDATE) I wired it up with the wiring diagram I attached in the post below. I found it on Tech while searching and its still not working.. If I take the window switch out of the equation it works perfectly and fires at WOT like it should.. however, as soon as I force the TPS wire to run through the relay it wont hit.. (could it possibly be because of voltage loss while it runs through the relay so now it wont read full voltage at the NMU while I am at WOT)?? I have tried pulling the window switch down to 500 rpms .and it still wont fire.. I didnt really like the idea of interupting the input from the TPS from the get go but since this wiring diagram was out there I assumed it would work.. I have also tried interupting the ground to the NMU instead of the TPS wire via the relay. When wired that way the engine would bog down then display would read "redused engine power" and when i tried to give it gas nothing happened.. so I moved on to interupting the power supply to the NMU via the relay.. Window switch set at 500 rpms still.. I hit my arming button and the NMU wont power on but at least the engine doesnt bog down.. For now I have reverted to taking the window switch out of the equasion.. Its the Jeg's unit and the settings are at 500rpms - 4200rpms just for testing of course, then I have it set to NO which is "normally open"... can anyone offer some advice?? I hate the thought of missing a shift and blowing the engine but I cant make this window switch work with the Zex stuff...

1BAD98TA

iTrader: (11)

Found this wiring diagram while searching a little more.. Wondering since I dont have a FPSS if I can just run the yellow wire directly to pin 85 and it work exactly like this diagram and function properly?? In my head it looks like it should be fine

SargeZ06

Yes just tap into a coil wire.

I can't hear my timing drop when it pulls 9*. It's about 10RWHP difference on motor when my resistor pulled timing on the dyno so I doubt I would even be able to feel something like that. I can see it on the chart but that's it.

1BAD98TA

iTrader: (11)

Well that worries me a little bit. I can hear the idle change when I arm the system. I assumed that was due to the timing being pulled.. I gotta quit posting lol, everytime I do I find out something else I dont know :-/

SargeZ06

Could just be your exhaust system is different. I have LT Headers and 3" cutouts so there isn't much I can hear under WOT. My timing is't pulled until airflow reaches a certain g/sec and my noids fire. Yours is pulled as soon as the system is armed.

Burrhos

iTrader: (3)

Lol I love the picture.

You sound a lot like me. I had to draw a picture for myself to grasp the concept of everything and make sure I had all my ducks in a row.

NX Maximizer 4 controller tapped into TPS, RPM, and MPH at ECU
FPSS
Bottle heater
Purge
ECT timing switch

1BAD98TA

iTrader: (11)

Last question guys.. I wired it up with the diagram above and simply removed the FPSS so now the yellow lead runs directly from the window switch to the relay..

What exactly is the relay doing by wiring this way? I can only guess that when the window switch see's 3k rpms it sends a signal through the yellow wire which closes the circut on the white wire (tps) so that is can read if the car is at WOT or not.. In other words first criteria is that the car needs to hit 3k rpms, then the relay gets power, once the relay has power the white wire will show a signal to the Zex "brain" and if you are at WOT the selnoids fire.. Hope all that makes sense??

rmata

iTrader: (34)

According to that diagram, the arming switch powers up the relay. When you're within the window switch, the MSD will give the relay it's ground, and then that completes the circuit and sends the TPS voltage from pin 30 to the NMU

1BAD98TA

iTrader: (11)

So I was close.. it doesnt apply power to the relay, it applies ground.. Awesome.. I should be taking it for a test drive Friday to be sure it fires as it should.. Do a quick 1 second nitrous hit to be sure it hits.. then off to the tuner on the 21st!! Thanks guys

1BAD98TA

iTrader: (11)

I updated the first post with new problems if anyone has any ideas... Everything is wired up and working perfect right now EXCEPT the blue wire on the window switch which has the same function as the yellow wire on the MSD one. When I run that wire to the relay as the diagram above indicates the NMU never fires, makes no difference what I set the rpms to.. I dropped them as low as I could and taking it to over 4k rpms the nitrous never hit.. take the white (tps) leads off the relay and join them together it hits just like it's supposed to... Im lost.. I am going to try and new relay tomorrow and see if that might fix it.. (even though I stole this relay from my bottle heater which worked fine)..

hogwild87

iTrader: (2)

Bump for answers