Weird problem. Car died at high speed after spraying? Than not wanting to start.
08-31-2012, 06:30 PM
#1
Weird problem. Car died at high speed after spraying? Than not wanting to start. Ok so I have my new cam in (224r). And just got a full street tune on it a few days ago. I went out last night to do some late night pulls on the abandoned highway outside town. I do some pulls all motor and it runs strong. And than I doo a few pulls on n20 and holly **** it flys, BUT on the last pull I did a 45-130 pull on the n20 and when I let off the motor dies and the gauges all went to ZERO. So I pull it over to the side and I'm thinking the worst... (Blown engine, broke a spring and dropped a valve)? Anyway I crank the car over and it doesn't want to start or it will start real quick and die. Finally it starts up, but it's real shaky like something broke. So I start limping it back home and it's got a missing feel to it and still shaky AND THAN about half way home it just starts to run perfect and drives perfect the rest of the way home. I get it in the garage and start checking it over and everything looks good. Valvetrain doesn't sound noisy or anything... Today I take it out and do some pulls from 45-120ish and it pulls hard as ever and drives perfect all day. Also on the n20 pulls I watch my wideband the whole time and it stayed in the high 11-12.0 area the whole time. The only thing I can think of is maybe I fouled the plugs somehow? I just am really stumped to what happend... Anybody have any ideas?
08-31-2012, 07:07 PM
#3
That's about the only thing I can think of ^. Maybe my fuel solenoid got stuck open and killed engine by floodiing it.. That would make sense why it didn't want to start and why it was sputtering half the way home. Maybe when it flooded it fouled the plugs?
08-31-2012, 11:45 PM
#7
Getting all fuel and no nitrous would flood it bad. Street car guys always run their bottles until they're empty and that's no good. As the amount of nitrous in the bottle lessens, bottle pressure drops faster while spraying and you will gradually get less nitrous as you empty the bottle further, so your tune up can change and get richer. With a 10lb bottle I don't use more than 3-4 lbs and with a 15lb bottle I don't use more than 6-8lbs before topping it off.
Some people don't know it, most probably do, but you weigh the bottle to determine how much nitrous is in it rather than looking at pressure.
Some people don't know it, most probably do, but you weigh the bottle to determine how much nitrous is in it rather than looking at pressure.
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09-01-2012, 05:49 PM
#15
Then you change it again and its 14.8-15.2 on the highway, 13.8-13.6 WOT and 12.8-13.0 on the spray.
Which gauge is right? You don't know, but your plugs will tell you the truth.
Get your plugs the way you need to get them and then make a pass and look at the A/F gauge. Whatever it reads is where you need to keep it. Any variation and you know something is wrong.
09-01-2012, 07:53 PM
#18
ok guys figured it out. I checked plugs and they were all rich. So I pulled the n20 lines off of my plate and put them each line in a water bottle and tapped the wot switch. While the n20 quit spraying the fuel just kept on spraying.... So my fuel solenoid is sticking open! Wich tells me I'm just going to replace them both because I don't want to chance the n20 sticking open and costing me my engine. Thank god it was the other way around. I wonder if having them mounted to the head is causing to much heat and making them go to **** sooner? I think I will replace them and mount them somewhere cooler. Thanks again for the help
09-01-2012, 08:36 PM
#19
Read the plugs, then record what the afr reading is. This will give you an idea as to what to look for.
If you don't know what you're looking for while reading the plugs, there is plenty of literature out there to help you along with what to look for.
If you don't know what you're looking for while reading the plugs, there is plenty of literature out there to help you along with what to look for.