Kwikasfaki

iTrader: (1)

So I have a 2000 ls1 Camaro. After market parts are yank ss3600, long tubes, tsp true duals, and 342 gears. I started spraying a 100 shot for several months now and have upped it to 125 and finally to 150 last night. I put a 62n and 35f jet. The nitrous system consists of bottle heater, lnc2000 timing tuner ( pulled 6* on 150 shot), window switch spraying from 3k to 6k, and wot. I did two passes and the car ran good but still spun off the launch. The third time I removed air out the back tires and it hooked very good. 3/4 down the track it started shutting down and barely stayed running. I finished the run and pulled to the side since the inside was smoking. My first thoughts were I broke the transmission. As I got out I was there was glowing under the hood. I opened the hood and had a small fire under the little boot between the MAF sensor and throttle body. There was also another by the coil packs or injectors on the drivers side. So now my questions is what could it be that happened? I ended up puttinging tape on the hole of where the fire had cause it on the bellows. After taping it it was able to turn it on and the motor was still in good temperature (under 200) and oil pressure was good as well and did not hear any funny noises. Just trying to see if someone could point me in the right direction. Any info is appreciated.

Kwikasfaki

iTrader: (1)

No one?

03EBZ06

sounds like a backfire occurred. check for leaks. make sure when you are spraying its ALL in the intake and not leaking.

I would pull the intake and look it over.

KissMyTushZ28

iTrader: (4)

Just out of curiosity. Are you pulling timing or just throwing 150 shot at it? Just curious because you mentioned all of the nitrous changes but no tune changes. Definitely sounds like a nitrous backfire.

Kwikasfaki

iTrader: (1)

I have a Frost tune but I'm using the lnc2000 to pull 6* on the 150 shot. If it did back fire is it something I should have heard? Just asking because i don't think I heard anything like a backfire or saw flames until I got out of the car and saw the glow coming from under the hood.

shortdog

iTrader: (1)

Check your wiring, especially to your fuel solenoid for loose/broken connections.

Had a crappy connector on my fuel solenoid which blew my motor up about 4 years ago.

high impact

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like a small backfire, you're lucky it wasnt any worse. Check over EVERTHING with a fine tooth comb. Wiring, fittings, tune, intake, plugs, etc...then drop jets back to 100 and read your plugs before increasing the hit again. Are you using a controller, window switch or throttle switch? Need to know more about your set up to help much more

Kwikasfaki

iTrader: (1)

The whole setup included an msd window switch that was set at 3k to 6k. I had a WOT switch hooked up as well. Before I went from 100 to 150 I added a racetronix 255 pump to be safe. I'll pull plugs today and will take pics of the damage. Going to have to order new wiring harness, injectors, coils, and intake.

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

That was probably a backfire, as mentioned above. Do you have it on a push button or a WOT switch?

-Garrett

Kwikasfaki

iTrader: (1)

I have a micro switch hooked up to the throttle body that makes contact on wide open throttle. I was using an electric wot switch when I first set it up and it would never engage. If it was a nitrous back fire what would be the main reason it happened? I tried playing it safe and spraying at 3k rpms and shutting it off at 6k before it shifts using the window switch.

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

Well if you were using a button, and you let off the throttle before you let off the nitrous button, you can cause puddling and it could cause a backfire. Activating the nitrous at too low of an rpm can cause a backfire, also. Are you running a plate or a nozzle?

-Garrett

high impact

iTrader: (5)

I have my window switch set to engage 3,000-7,400 rpm plus a wot programmed to trigger at 90% of tps reading wot. Currently I am spraying 150 shot through a plate. Like I said above, double check EVERYTHING then test - make for certain that the wot switch is activating at 90 percent throttle opening or greater and shuts off the instant you let off.

03EBZ06

I hope you are shutting the nitrous down before the engine fuel fuel limiter.
If your N20 mix is still on after the engine limiter, its going to go lean and backfire.

Kwikasfaki

iTrader: (1)

I'll take pics of my set up when I get home so show how I had it. I used an arming switch to turn it on and activate only under wot and the 3k to 6k window.

Kwikasfaki

iTrader: (1)

Kwikasfaki

iTrader: (1)

Kwikasfaki

iTrader: (1)

This shows how I used the micro switch as my wot switch. The masking tape was used so the car would stay on to cover the hole from the bellows to be able to get it on the trailer.

high impact

iTrader: (5)

Yes, of course! My limiter is at 7,600. Solid roller 6spd and I bump it often. LOL

03EBZ06

lmao, 7400rpm you noted above, didn't realize you were winding that bad boy out to 7600rpm. BTW, hows the power curve of that engine w/that cam?

high impact

iTrader: (5)

Love the power curve, it's quiet and no fear of a collapsed lifter. It pulls extremely hard up top and doesn't seem to run out of steam, it just keeps going and going. When I get my suspension dialed in and learn how to launch the 6 spd this thing will see single digits (and I haven't even installed the trick flow heads yet)
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