Prepping stock bottom end 5.3 for spray
08-12-2014, 06:32 PM
#21
also that 11.8 was on my old converter, which was a tci 3k stall that crapped the bed one day doing some motor pulls near my house. the trans survived the tq converter exploding so i threw a yank ss3600 in it (found it cheap in the classifieds).
08-12-2014, 09:34 PM
#23
i hoping for tens i want to put the 250 jets in it and see what it will do, but everytime i go to the track i break a 10 bolt lol. another thing i gotta do is upgrade my solenoid to nozzle line to a 4an before i up the jets.
08-26-2014, 03:05 PM
#24
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How much is everyone spraying your stock 5.3s without problems??
Will a stock bottom end 110k motor handle a 250 for a few years or am I begging for problems spraying it that much?
Will a stock bottom end 110k motor handle a 250 for a few years or am I begging for problems spraying it that much?
08-27-2014, 01:26 PM
#25
What year 5.3 are you running? Fuel type? Intake?
7400 seems pretty excessive on a stock short block build. Why would you go that big on the cam? Why rev it that high? IMO if your pushing a stock short block, ditch that cam. Pill up the N20 a bit and back down the RPM to something reasonable... 6800-7k.
Has anyone ever seen an OEM gen4 rod bolt fail? Too much weight aftermarket hardware IMO. Granted I don't rev my stock block stuff to the moon but I've pushed well over 800hp at 6800rpm or so with gen4 OEM rod bolts torqued to FSM angle spec. Also this is the original hardware that has been re-assembled , not new OEM hardware.
7400 seems pretty excessive on a stock short block build. Why would you go that big on the cam? Why rev it that high? IMO if your pushing a stock short block, ditch that cam. Pill up the N20 a bit and back down the RPM to something reasonable... 6800-7k.
Has anyone ever seen an OEM gen4 rod bolt fail? Too much weight aftermarket hardware IMO. Granted I don't rev my stock block stuff to the moon but I've pushed well over 800hp at 6800rpm or so with gen4 OEM rod bolts torqued to FSM angle spec. Also this is the original hardware that has been re-assembled , not new OEM hardware.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 08-27-2014 at 01:53 PM.
08-27-2014, 03:34 PM
#27
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What year 5.3 are you running? Fuel type? Intake?
7400 seems pretty excessive on a stock short block build. Why would you go that big on the cam? Why rev it that high? IMO if your pushing a stock short block, ditch that cam. Pill up the N20 a bit and back down the RPM to something reasonable... 6800-7k.
Has anyone ever seen an OEM gen4 rod bolt fail? Too much weight aftermarket hardware IMO. Granted I don't rev my stock block stuff to the moon but I've pushed well over 800hp at 6800rpm or so with gen4 OEM rod bolts torqued to FSM angle spec. Also this is the original hardware that has been re-assembled , not new OEM hardware.
7400 seems pretty excessive on a stock short block build. Why would you go that big on the cam? Why rev it that high? IMO if your pushing a stock short block, ditch that cam. Pill up the N20 a bit and back down the RPM to something reasonable... 6800-7k.
Has anyone ever seen an OEM gen4 rod bolt fail? Too much weight aftermarket hardware IMO. Granted I don't rev my stock block stuff to the moon but I've pushed well over 800hp at 6800rpm or so with gen4 OEM rod bolts torqued to FSM angle spec. Also this is the original hardware that has been re-assembled , not new OEM hardware.
I can probably shift it a bit lower. I said 7400 just to be safe. Its a 01 5.3 and it will have a single plane intake with a edelbrock 4150 throttle body on a NOS plate.
08-27-2014, 04:24 PM
#28
For a 250 shot SBE I’d want…
2005+ OEM rods/pistons/piston rod hardware
Progressive or decent 2 stage controller
Limit RPM to 6800.
Cam and intake to make the best use of the lower RPM
Good MLS head gaskets
ARP Head Studs.
E85 if its available.
Aux fuel supply for N20 kit. (Alky inj kits and 100% methanol works really well)
Clean the carbon crap out of the ring lands. Every LS motor I’ve pulled apart had horrible build up in the ring lands.
Clean up wrist pins as well on the newer floating pistons. They get gummed up pretty good.
Check the gaps on the rings. Shoot for .006 x bore for ring gap. High mileage motors are usually pretty close
9 heat range plug.
Very mild timing curve.
2005+ OEM rods/pistons/piston rod hardware
Progressive or decent 2 stage controller
Limit RPM to 6800.
Cam and intake to make the best use of the lower RPM
Good MLS head gaskets
ARP Head Studs.
E85 if its available.
Aux fuel supply for N20 kit. (Alky inj kits and 100% methanol works really well)
Clean the carbon crap out of the ring lands. Every LS motor I’ve pulled apart had horrible build up in the ring lands.
Clean up wrist pins as well on the newer floating pistons. They get gummed up pretty good.
Check the gaps on the rings. Shoot for .006 x bore for ring gap. High mileage motors are usually pretty close
9 heat range plug.
Very mild timing curve.
08-27-2014, 04:41 PM
#29
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How are all these other guys taking 100k mile junk yard 5.3s and hitting them with 200-250 shots?
08-28-2014, 03:31 PM
#31
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08-28-2014, 09:15 PM
#32
For a 250 shot SBE I’d want…
2005+ OEM rods/pistons/piston rod hardware
Progressive or decent 2 stage controller
Limit RPM to 6800.
Cam and intake to make the best use of the lower RPM
Good MLS head gaskets
ARP Head Studs.
E85 if its available.
Aux fuel supply for N20 kit. (Alky inj kits and 100% methanol works really well)
Clean the carbon crap out of the ring lands. Every LS motor I’ve pulled apart had horrible build up in the ring lands.
Clean up wrist pins as well on the newer floating pistons. They get gummed up pretty good.
Check the gaps on the rings. Shoot for .006 x bore for ring gap. High mileage motors are usually pretty close
9 heat range plug.
Very mild timing curve.
2005+ OEM rods/pistons/piston rod hardware
Progressive or decent 2 stage controller
Limit RPM to 6800.
Cam and intake to make the best use of the lower RPM
Good MLS head gaskets
ARP Head Studs.
E85 if its available.
Aux fuel supply for N20 kit. (Alky inj kits and 100% methanol works really well)
Clean the carbon crap out of the ring lands. Every LS motor I’ve pulled apart had horrible build up in the ring lands.
Clean up wrist pins as well on the newer floating pistons. They get gummed up pretty good.
Check the gaps on the rings. Shoot for .006 x bore for ring gap. High mileage motors are usually pretty close
9 heat range plug.
Very mild timing curve.
09-01-2014, 07:36 PM
#33
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I have a BONE stock 03 bottom end with unknown mileage (prob 150k) stock 862s cut .030 with stock gm gaskets Chinese head studs, Asa cam, vic jr carb intake with 750 demon. I've sprayed a 175 over 10 times and 250 twice on the dunk. Not one issue yet. I'm using br7ef plugs and a standalone fuel cell in the front spraying c16 fuel. Just went 12.5 st 124 on a straight prime well radial. Not a drag radial, an all season radial lol. Converter way too tight, getting loosened up now as we speak. In a 3300 lb mustang with th400, 4.10 gear
09-03-2014, 09:32 PM
#36
Sounds like you're just fishing for reasons to justify cutting corners. If you want to cut corners and run a bone-stock shortblock with 200, 300, 400 hp of nitrous, don't be surprised if you break a piston or throw a rod or blow a headgasket. At the very least, do the headstuds. Easy, fairly inexpensive piece of mind that really helps keep the headgaskets in place. Next, if you are going to turn high RPMs, do the rod-bolts. It's a piece of cake 1-hour job with the motor on a stand. Tell the guys that swear you HAVE to resize the rod to **** up a rope. Last, if you're going to do more than 200hp or so of nitrous, you HAVE to do the piston rings or you will zero-gap and break the corners of your pistons. Ultimately, it's your choice, but the less you pay and the more corners you cut the more likely you will be the owner of a broken motor.
09-04-2014, 08:40 AM
#37
Sounds like you're just fishing for reasons to justify cutting corners. If you want to cut corners and run a bone-stock shortblock with 200, 300, 400 hp of nitrous, don't be surprised if you break a piston or throw a rod or blow a headgasket. At the very least, do the headstuds. Easy, fairly inexpensive piece of mind that really helps keep the headgaskets in place. Next, if you are going to turn high RPMs, do the rod-bolts. It's a piece of cake 1-hour job with the motor on a stand. Tell the guys that swear you HAVE to resize the rod to **** up a rope. Last, if you're going to do more than 200hp or so of nitrous, you HAVE to do the piston rings or you will zero-gap and break the corners of your pistons. Ultimately, it's your choice, but the less you pay and the more corners you cut the more likely you will be the owner of a broken motor.
09-04-2014, 10:16 AM
#38
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I am not cutting corners. I am just on a budget. I don't have 3k to throw into the bottom end right now. I see guys on here hitting their stock bottom end LS1 cars with big shots on a day to day basis. I was looking for guys doing the same with the 5.3s. I would think a 5.3 would be a bit more durable than a LS1.
I appreciate your input though. You gave me good points.
I appreciate your input though. You gave me good points.
09-04-2014, 11:09 AM
#39
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I think it's all in the tune. I agree with the head studs and rod bolts but you don't have to regap the rings. Good friend of mine has been spraying his bone stock cam only 5.3 for months, Months on a .93 jet. No issues, once again he has a stand alone fuel system as do I. Hell I don't even have rods bolts lol he has stock head gaskets and bolts btw.
09-04-2014, 11:43 AM
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I did the head studs when I put the 243s on so I am good there. I didn't do the rod bolts because I was afraid of distorting the rod, I figured it would do more harm than good.
Your buddy has stock rod bolts? How many miles on the motor?
Your buddy has stock rod bolts? How many miles on the motor?