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Prepping stock bottom end 5.3 for spray

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Old 08-07-2014, 09:59 PM
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Default Prepping stock bottom end 5.3 for spray

I am running a stock bottom end 5.3 with about 110k out of a 01 truck. It has 243 heads that are milled a bit to achieve 10.0-1 compression. I will be spraying it quite often. What do you guys suggest I do to the bottom end? Rod bolts or anything else? My cam calls for me to shift around 7400 rpm.
Old 08-07-2014, 10:22 PM
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Katech rod bolts , melling high volume oil pump, ls2 timing chain, and run an extra 3/4 - 1 qt extra oil. We dont have rod bolts in ours and shift 7000 on a lot of jet and it sees 7200-7400 through the 1/4 traps but dont suggest anyone to do it. Definitely a crap shoot either way. Need to make sure your motor and nitrous tuneup are both spot on.
Old 08-07-2014, 10:33 PM
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Needs rod bolts, need to open up wrist pin clearance, needs a lot of piston wall clearance for room for pistons to expand, open up ring gaps. That's the basics to make one live if your tune-up is clean.
Old 08-08-2014, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Killer5.3
Katech rod bolts , melling high volume oil pump, ls2 timing chain, and run an extra 3/4 - 1 qt extra oil. We dont have rod bolts in ours and shift 7000 on a lot of jet and it sees 7200-7400 through the 1/4 traps but dont suggest anyone to do it. Definitely a crap shoot either way. Need to make sure your motor and nitrous tuneup are both spot on.
Do you think the ARP "cracked rod" rod bolts will be ok? How much are you hitting yours with? Are your rings opened up at all? Mileage of the motor? Sorry for all the questions.

Last edited by stock4.8; 08-08-2014 at 12:43 AM.
Old 08-08-2014, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by WE TODD DID
Needs rod bolts, need to open up wrist pin clearance, needs a lot of piston wall clearance for room for pistons to expand, open up ring gaps. That's the basics to make one live if your tune-up is clean.
I dont really know how to do all that. I am not an engine builder by any means. I can change the rod bolts no problem. How much can I hit it with the rings not opened up?
Old 08-08-2014, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by stock4.8
Do you think the ARP "cracked rod" rod bolts will be ok? How much are you hitting yours with? Are your rings opened up at all? Mileage of the motor? Sorry for all the questions.

The rods should be resized if you use the ARP or you are asking for trouble. The Katech can be used without doing that , but, make damn sure the bolts are torqued properly .
Our bottom end is completely untouched . Stock ring gap, stock rod bolts, stock rotating assembly with 24,000 miles. Original motor that came in car. 2002 model. IS single stage fogger with a .036 jet. Been hitting it anywhere from .073 -.093 jet when it had an N.O. plate and .032 -.036 jet on the fogger.
Old 08-08-2014, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by stock4.8
I dont really know how to do all that. I am not an engine builder by any means. I can change the rod bolts no problem. How much can I hit it with the rings not opened up?
If you're wanting it to live, it's what you have to do. You can get by with it being untouched for a while, but if you get after it, it'll show it's bad side. At the minimum, I would put rod bolts in it. After a while it'll start trying to seize the wrist pins from flex and lack of clearance. That's if you don't butt the rings before that happens.
Old 08-08-2014, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Killer5.3
The rods should be resized if you use the ARP or you are asking for trouble. The Katech can be used without doing that , but, make damn sure the bolts are torqued properly .
Our bottom end is completely untouched . Stock ring gap, stock rod bolts, stock rotating assembly with 24,000 miles. Original motor that came in car. 2002 model. IS single stage fogger with a .036 jet. Been hitting it anywhere from .073 -.093 jet when it had an N.O. plate and .032 -.036 jet on the fogger.
Ok. I was not aware of that. Why do you need to resize the ARP but not the Katech?

Do you happen to have the part number on the Katech?
Old 08-08-2014, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by WE TODD DID
If you're wanting it to live, it's what you have to do. You can get by with it being untouched for a while, but if you get after it, it'll show it's bad side. At the minimum, I would put rod bolts in it. After a while it'll start trying to seize the wrist pins from flex and lack of clearance. That's if you don't butt the rings before that happens.
Ok sounds good. Thank you for the info.
Old 08-08-2014, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by stock4.8
Ok sounds good. Thank you for the info.
If your oil clearance isn't too tight, the arp bolts will be fine and you'll never have an issue related to that. I would imagine it'll show it's face with stock gm bearings, but an aftermarket replacement like a king bearing has more clearance than the original bearings.
Old 08-08-2014, 01:59 PM
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Not saying its the right way, but haven't done anything to an '03 5.3L SBE. Spraying .088 pill, about 175-200lbs of nitrous through it. It sees 7,000 every shift, occasionally hit 7400. Cold plugs and low timing, and a clean tune (low 12s AFR). Nitrous outlet 78mm plate on a truck intake.
Old 08-08-2014, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by NorthTexasConverter
Not saying its the right way, but haven't done anything to an '03 5.3L SBE. Spraying .088 pill, about 175-200lbs of nitrous through it. It sees 7,000 every shift, occasionally hit 7400. Cold plugs and low timing, and a clean tune (low 12s AFR). Nitrous outlet 78mm plate on a truck intake.
That awesome man. What is the mileage of your motor? Whats your compression and what fuel?
Old 08-10-2014, 10:53 PM
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If I dont have the option of resizing the rods would I be better of not putting the ARP rod bolts in at all?
Old 08-10-2014, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Killer5.3
Katech rod bolts , melling high volume oil pump, ls2 timing chain, and run an extra 3/4 - 1 qt extra oil. We dont have rod bolts in ours and shift 7000 on a lot of jet and it sees 7200-7400 through the 1/4 traps but dont suggest anyone to do it. Definitely a crap shoot either way. Need to make sure your motor and nitrous tuneup are both spot on.
I'm curious, what's the reason for adding the extra quart of oil?
Old 08-11-2014, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by RobsZ28
I'm curious, what's the reason for adding the extra quart of oil?
With the stock oil pan don't want to run the risk of starving the bearings of oil at high rpms. The melling high volume pump or even a ported ls6 pump will move more oil than stock pump. It has worked good so far with about 250 nitrous passes on the motor and 6900-7000 shift points. It has seen 7300-7400 quite a bit through the 1/4 traps and on motor shifts. Made about 10 passes on .073 jet, a bunch on .078- .093 jet in a plate and the last 30+ have been .032 -.036 jet in fogger.
Old 08-12-2014, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by stock4.8
That awesome man. What is the mileage of your motor? Whats your compression and what fuel?
Unknown mileage, and untouched shortblock, LS6 heads milled (to get back to stock compression). 93 octane for the motor, and 110 in the nitrous fuel cell.
Old 08-12-2014, 11:59 AM
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That's awesome man. Looks like i wont be doing the rod bolts. I don't want to risk distorting the rod and you guys haven't had any issues.
Old 08-12-2014, 01:35 PM
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im running a 200 shot on my 1999 5.3. its a bone stock long block besides cam/hardened pushrods/valve springs est milage around 150k-175k miles. i only turn it to 6500 i dont have that big of a cam in it...
Old 08-12-2014, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by boostit5.3
im running a 200 shot on my 1999 5.3. its a bone stock long block besides cam/hardened pushrods/valve springs est milage around 150k-175k miles. i only turn it to 6500 i dont have that big of a cam in it...
What kind of times have you turn with it? How many bottles have you put through it?
Old 08-12-2014, 06:21 PM
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ive only taken it to the track twice, it went 11.8 @ 120 on a cold bottle (~700 psi, had no way to heat the bottle up afrs went way rich). my 2.73 gears are killing me too im currently in the market for a 3.42 rear end.... mostly i fool around on the street ive sprayed around 25 bottles through it and most of them was a 15lb bottle.


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