Prepping stock bottom end 5.3 for spray
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Prepping stock bottom end 5.3 for spray
I am running a stock bottom end 5.3 with about 110k out of a 01 truck. It has 243 heads that are milled a bit to achieve 10.0-1 compression. I will be spraying it quite often. What do you guys suggest I do to the bottom end? Rod bolts or anything else? My cam calls for me to shift around 7400 rpm.
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Katech rod bolts , melling high volume oil pump, ls2 timing chain, and run an extra 3/4 - 1 qt extra oil. We dont have rod bolts in ours and shift 7000 on a lot of jet and it sees 7200-7400 through the 1/4 traps but dont suggest anyone to do it. Definitely a crap shoot either way. Need to make sure your motor and nitrous tuneup are both spot on.
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Katech rod bolts , melling high volume oil pump, ls2 timing chain, and run an extra 3/4 - 1 qt extra oil. We dont have rod bolts in ours and shift 7000 on a lot of jet and it sees 7200-7400 through the 1/4 traps but dont suggest anyone to do it. Definitely a crap shoot either way. Need to make sure your motor and nitrous tuneup are both spot on.
Last edited by stock4.8; 08-08-2014 at 12:43 AM.
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I dont really know how to do all that. I am not an engine builder by any means. I can change the rod bolts no problem. How much can I hit it with the rings not opened up?
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The rods should be resized if you use the ARP or you are asking for trouble. The Katech can be used without doing that , but, make damn sure the bolts are torqued properly .
Our bottom end is completely untouched . Stock ring gap, stock rod bolts, stock rotating assembly with 24,000 miles. Original motor that came in car. 2002 model. IS single stage fogger with a .036 jet. Been hitting it anywhere from .073 -.093 jet when it had an N.O. plate and .032 -.036 jet on the fogger.
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If you're wanting it to live, it's what you have to do. You can get by with it being untouched for a while, but if you get after it, it'll show it's bad side. At the minimum, I would put rod bolts in it. After a while it'll start trying to seize the wrist pins from flex and lack of clearance. That's if you don't butt the rings before that happens.
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The rods should be resized if you use the ARP or you are asking for trouble. The Katech can be used without doing that , but, make damn sure the bolts are torqued properly .
Our bottom end is completely untouched . Stock ring gap, stock rod bolts, stock rotating assembly with 24,000 miles. Original motor that came in car. 2002 model. IS single stage fogger with a .036 jet. Been hitting it anywhere from .073 -.093 jet when it had an N.O. plate and .032 -.036 jet on the fogger.
Our bottom end is completely untouched . Stock ring gap, stock rod bolts, stock rotating assembly with 24,000 miles. Original motor that came in car. 2002 model. IS single stage fogger with a .036 jet. Been hitting it anywhere from .073 -.093 jet when it had an N.O. plate and .032 -.036 jet on the fogger.
Do you happen to have the part number on the Katech?
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If you're wanting it to live, it's what you have to do. You can get by with it being untouched for a while, but if you get after it, it'll show it's bad side. At the minimum, I would put rod bolts in it. After a while it'll start trying to seize the wrist pins from flex and lack of clearance. That's if you don't butt the rings before that happens.
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If your oil clearance isn't too tight, the arp bolts will be fine and you'll never have an issue related to that. I would imagine it'll show it's face with stock gm bearings, but an aftermarket replacement like a king bearing has more clearance than the original bearings.
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Not saying its the right way, but haven't done anything to an '03 5.3L SBE. Spraying .088 pill, about 175-200lbs of nitrous through it. It sees 7,000 every shift, occasionally hit 7400. Cold plugs and low timing, and a clean tune (low 12s AFR). Nitrous outlet 78mm plate on a truck intake.
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Not saying its the right way, but haven't done anything to an '03 5.3L SBE. Spraying .088 pill, about 175-200lbs of nitrous through it. It sees 7,000 every shift, occasionally hit 7400. Cold plugs and low timing, and a clean tune (low 12s AFR). Nitrous outlet 78mm plate on a truck intake.
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Katech rod bolts , melling high volume oil pump, ls2 timing chain, and run an extra 3/4 - 1 qt extra oil. We dont have rod bolts in ours and shift 7000 on a lot of jet and it sees 7200-7400 through the 1/4 traps but dont suggest anyone to do it. Definitely a crap shoot either way. Need to make sure your motor and nitrous tuneup are both spot on.
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With the stock oil pan don't want to run the risk of starving the bearings of oil at high rpms. The melling high volume pump or even a ported ls6 pump will move more oil than stock pump. It has worked good so far with about 250 nitrous passes on the motor and 6900-7000 shift points. It has seen 7300-7400 quite a bit through the 1/4 traps and on motor shifts. Made about 10 passes on .073 jet, a bunch on .078- .093 jet in a plate and the last 30+ have been .032 -.036 jet in fogger.
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#18
im running a 200 shot on my 1999 5.3. its a bone stock long block besides cam/hardened pushrods/valve springs est milage around 150k-175k miles. i only turn it to 6500 i dont have that big of a cam in it...
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What kind of times have you turn with it? How many bottles have you put through it?
#20
ive only taken it to the track twice, it went 11.8 @ 120 on a cold bottle (~700 psi, had no way to heat the bottle up afrs went way rich). my 2.73 gears are killing me too im currently in the market for a 3.42 rear end.... mostly i fool around on the street ive sprayed around 25 bottles through it and most of them was a 15lb bottle.