GotToGo

First, what afr are you guys running? I was told 10 or 11 but I also read 12.5 is optimal.

Second, bottle heater. My understanding is you heat the bottle to raise and maintain pressure. But I seem to have an over pressure condition all the time, usually around 1000psi. Running a heater in this situation wouldn't help me would it?

Third, timing, is it really critical? If my stock table is at 20 n/a and spark tuning takes it to 24, then pulling 4 degrees would just put it back at stock. See what I mean?

I'm running a plate at 125 shot.

Thanks for any info.

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

1. Tune the car for half a point richer than what it likes WOT on motor.

2. No, with over pressure you would need to purge it down. If you plan on making more than 1-2 runs every time out, a heater would be good for you, and it also helps keep things consistent. You are going to lose a decent amount of pressure every time you hit it, and will want the heater to avoid a bunch of down time.

3. Timing is very important. We recommend pulling 2* per 50hp to start with.

-Garrett

GotToGo

Thanks, i'll work towards this.

AJatNitrousOutlet

Your AFR should be good right around 12.0, but using a wideband to tune isn't a replacement for pulling your plugs. Same thing for timing- pulling 2* for every 50HP is a general rule of thumb. However, to get it really on you should pull your plugs and look at the timing mark and adjust accordingly. Are you using an automatic heater? If so, you may need to turn the pressure switch down a little bit. Even though nitrous systems can operate at 1000PSI, over a period of time it can cause damage to the solenoids.

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

We have been running our solenoids at 1050 PSI for the last 20 years or so since NX opened, no issues.

-Garrett

AJatNitrousOutlet

And all that does is put more pressure on a solenoid wearing it out even faster. Then it will cause a nipple to form, creating a drag which will not allow the system to flow the PPH it should.

Around 1050psi the nitrous starts reverting back to a gas. It makes no logical sense to be running your pressure higher than 950psi when all it will be is counterproductive.

The fastest guy on a 315 Radial in a nitrous car is Jamie Hancock and his pressure sits around 800-850. I don't know where this wise tail came from, that running more pressure is a good thing and it will make your tune up faster, but it is entirely false.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

How are you having an over pressure issue all the time without a bottle heater. Do you live near the equator lol? Seriously though the only way for mine to read that high without a heater is to have it in the sun for several hours and it has to be hot as hell out on top of it...that is the only way I can see a 1000 psi immediately upon cracking open the bottle

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

I never said anything about it being better than other pressures, I simply stated that a solenoid works just fine at 1050 PSI. And no, it doesn't cause a nipple. 1150+ will do that, and the solenoid also probably won't open. There are alot of people running lower pressures on nitrous, hauling ***, the fuel map just changes. But in the same sense, people have been hauling the mail on 1050psi for the last 20-30 years.

If you want to talk PPH, our Single Entry crossbar flows well towards 2500 PPH flowing on 1050 PSI, and it doesn't require porting your intake to distribute right.

I am not saying that my way is the only way to do it, just stating that it works for us and the solenoids aren't in danger running 1050 PSI, because that is misleading when you tell people that.

-Garrett

GotToGo

I wish I knew. But everytime (almost everytime) I look at the gauge its at 1000. It only seems to come down when the bottle starts to get empty.

It is almost always hot at the track.

I've been looking at pressure regulators but they are crazy expensive.

brandon@nitrousoutlet

iTrader: (2)

Since people moving that kind of pph are running 1050