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so I decided to hit the wot switch last evening and spray a 150 shot into my ls1 . My lnc-2000 is triggered to pull 5.5-6 * as soon as the wot switch makes contact. Stupid me without using my vcm scanner, tried it out at around 3500 in 4th gear. My mainly stock car is dyno tuned and sits at roughly 12.5-12.6 under wot, as soon as the nitrous engaged it leaned out to 13.5 and all the way to 13.9 before I shut the run down. A few things, my tuner didn't change anything in the main spark table, which is pretty aggressive under wot as it sees 27-29 degrees timing from 4500 and up. It has no kr without the spray but I'm sure the nitrous would have shown some in a log . Why would my car go so lean on the nitrous outlet suggested jetting? I'm running ngk tr6 gapped at .030 . The only other thing I can think could be causing this is the tvs diodes were never installed between solenoids and they're could be interference with the lnc-2000 , causing it to no pull the desired timing . Am I exceeding the stock fuel systems max hp? I dynoed at 321 rwhp
Why would I want to pull timing before its spraying ? If it pulls timing when I arm it, I'm losing power before I mash the petal. Pulling 6 degrees timing from a n/a tune is major power. Nitrous may be 950 psi but the time it takes to activate the lnc is still quicker .
Why would I want to pull timing before its spraying ? If it pulls timing when I arm it, I'm losing power before I mash the petal. Pulling 6 degrees timing from a n/a tune is major power. Nitrous may be 950 psi but the time it takes to activate the lnc is still quicker .
That's why you don't turn on the kit till your ready to mash the pedal. I don't see how you will be losing power if your not even at WOT. Is this Auto or stick. I just really never herd some one having it hooked to there micro switch is all im saying.
My switch all powers together , my warmer, purge opener and arm all power off the arm. I didn't run 4 seperate wires through the car to a switched power source because 1- cleaner and easier install, 2 I didn't want to pull the timing until it was spraying. I spent hours speaking with one of the guys at nitrous outlet askin questions and there is no issue , wiring the lnc into the wot switch
How many relays are you running 2? I only wires I have running in my car our 4 20-22 gauge wire for the switches arm(witch has the lnc inline with it) & purge which go to the relays underneath the hood. I have a bottle heater but it's a plug-in to the cigarette lighter. Are you actually running the power source inside the car to the switch?
Which switch? The wot switch? Or the cup holder switch ? Source comes form and add a circuit tapped into the bottom right radio fuse. Also I inly have 1 relay and it's used to power my warmer . Mine a nitrous outlet bracket and warmer in one,the pressure switch , warmer, and remote opener all run to the relay and the relay I believe , is powered straight from the battery
I am not sure I understand the association with being lean with not having the timing retard being active.
If it is lean when the nitrous is active the likely issues are either it is the nitrous jetting in relation to the fuel jetting, the fuel pressure (for the nitrous system), and/or the duty cycle on the nitrous vs fuel solenoids (if a progressive system is being used).
If it was lean just as the nitrous went active, then it might be a fuel vs nitrous delay in getting to the engine and then a delay in the nitrous vs the fuel activation might be helpful (possible with some nitrous controllers or delay boxes) but since it stayed lean that doesn't sound like it is the problem in this case.
Although we recommend the TVS diodes be used to protect the LNC and other electronic equipment from the flyback voltage from the solenoids it is unlikely that the lack of TVS diodes is causing the system to be lean.
Originally Posted by Dennis5374
so I decided to hit the wot switch last evening and spray a 150 shot into my ls1 . My lnc-2000 is triggered to pull 5.5-6 * as soon as the wot switch makes contact. Stupid me without using my vcm scanner, tried it out at around 3500 in 4th gear. My mainly stock car is dyno tuned and sits at roughly 12.5-12.6 under wot, as soon as the nitrous engaged it leaned out to 13.5 and all the way to 13.9 before I shut the run down. A few things, my tuner didn't change anything in the main spark table, which is pretty aggressive under wot as it sees 27-29 degrees timing from 4500 and up. It has no kr without the spray but I'm sure the nitrous would have shown some in a log . Why would my car go so lean on the nitrous outlet suggested jetting? I'm running ngk tr6 gapped at .030 . The only other thing I can think could be causing this is the tvs diodes were never installed between solenoids and they're could be interference with the lnc-2000 , causing it to no pull the desired timing . Am I exceeding the stock fuel systems max hp? I dynoed at 321 rwhp
First, you should change your spark plugs over to the NGK BR7EF, and gap them around 32 thousandths. How much HP does the car put out on motor? For it to hit, and then go leaner as the pull continues, it sounds like you are out of fuel pump.
Are we to understand you are spraying a 150 shot on that with the factory fuel pump still? You if you are mid 12 on the motor already, and adding a 150 shot your going to be over what the stock fuel pump can reliably deliver, you will not be able to maintain the 55 psi you should have at the fuel jet. You could possibly get a bigger jet to account for this pressure drop but the correct way would be to upgrade your fuel pump to a 255 lph, or put in a stand alone fuel cell, like the fusebox one Nitrous Outlet sells. Putting a new pump in the tank is cheaper, but a lot more work. I'd rather do a head, cam swap than drop the tank on an Fbody. For about $600 you could have a stand alone fuel cell, and use E85 or race gas in it for your shot and wouldn't have to retard timing so much on your 2000.
I would definitely change the plugs to the br7s. I would think the stock fuel system could handle the amount of power you're making on 150. Why don't you put the the 100 jets in and see if it goes lean. That would quickly tell you if it's the pump or not.
It's not a lean spike from the delay in fuel. The car is 321 rwhp . I ran ngk-tr6 because it was all I could find in a rush to go to lake George last weekend . I agree with aj in that the pump is to weak to compensate . Also the plugs were gapped at 30 thousandths . I went with the 150 shot because this system was pieced together and i didn't have any smaller jets. I figured that since the normal estimate is 500 rwhp on stock fuel system, I'd still be in this window, but coming close to maxing out my fp. I'm gonna run the br7ef and upgrade the pump and see where I'm at . I won an auction yesterday for a Huron v1 t4 kit with ac so I'm changing directions soon. I'd just like to have a little fun with this setup before I move on
so I decided to hit the wot switch last evening and spray a 150 shot into my ls1 . My lnc-2000 is triggered to pull 5.5-6 * as soon as the wot switch makes contact. Stupid me without using my vcm scanner, tried it out at around 3500 in 4th gear. My mainly stock car is dyno tuned and sits at roughly 12.5-12.6 under wot, as soon as the nitrous engaged it leaned out to 13.5 and all the way to 13.9 before I shut the run down. A few things, my tuner didn't change anything in the main spark table, which is pretty aggressive under wot as it sees 27-29 degrees timing from 4500 and up. It has no kr without the spray but I'm sure the nitrous would have shown some in a log . Why would my car go so lean on the nitrous outlet suggested jetting? I'm running ngk tr6 gapped at .030 . The only other thing I can think could be causing this is the tvs diodes were never installed between solenoids and they're could be interference with the lnc-2000 , causing it to no pull the desired timing . Am I exceeding the stock fuel systems max hp? I dynoed at 321 rwhp
Im in the same boat i never installed the tvs diodes?? I don't really see the point of them or the reasons why
Although I agree the TVS diodes have nothing to do with the problem the OP is describing, the use of them on solenoids and other similar devices is highly recommended in order to protect the LNC-2000 and other electronic devices in the vehicle including the ECM. The flyback voltage from a nitrous solenoid, linelock solenoid, transbrake solenoid or other similar high current solenoids can and do cause electronic system device failures.
Here is an image of the voltage measured at a common line-lock solenoid without a TVS diode installed (nearly +/- 400 volts peak to peak):
Here is an image of the same solenoid measurement after installing the line-lock solenoid (roughly +/- 30 volts peak to peak):
Originally Posted by unioncarpenter84
Im in the same boat i never installed the tvs diodes?? I don't really see the point of them or the reasons why
Idk guys I'm at my wit end here . I'm still lean running th now jet for a 159 shot and the hell jet for a 200 (.35) . It's gotta be the tune , that's all it can be . Brand new racetronix pump and hot wire kit , I mean this is making me wanna rip it out and start running my hot and cold side for the turbo setup I bought and never looking back .same exact setup on my lt1 and it ran perfect , I'm gonna fatten it up in the tune and pull timing across the board as it is insanely aggressive and hope I can get one clean run out of it . I'm gonna burn some plugs testing it this way or worse a piston !!
Wow this is crazy lol. I run a single nozzle wet kit with a 150 shot, and use the LNC-2000 as well. Once my tune was dialed in it ran like a champ. Been this for a while now, and haven't had any problems whatsoever
09-11-2016, 09:52 AM
Lean condition Ls1 nitrous outlet plate 150 shot 
