CG88

Hey everyone, I want to install a 150 wet shot on my basically stock LS1. All that's done to it is LT's and a Borla exhaust so nothing much. I'm a bit of newbie so I just wanted some tips and guide as to how to install the plumbing and wiring for the system, including a purge. Also if there is any supporting mods I would need.

Also, how exactly does the window switch work? I'm new to the idea of using nitrous so I just want to understand what that is, how it works and if I need this, because I heard about a WOT switch too not sure if I need both or either.

CG88

Also, what purge system to get if I get the 3 bolt nitrous plate

98redorangeta

iTrader: (10)

A Wot switch makes sure you are wot before the system activates. A window switch lets you set 2 rpm points where you want the nitrous to tun off one if it goes below and one if it goes above. Example you can set the low to 3500 rpm so it won't activate until then and the high to 6500 rpm so if you go over that it shuts off. It is a safer route to use both.

CG88

Oh that all makes a lot more sense now, thanks. All I want to know now is anything I need to buy or do to make sure I make this system as safe as possible. One risk I see is if I leave the bottle in the car on a hot summer day, could anything bad happen, what could help prevent this.

Also would any universal purge system work? Or is there a specific system for the plate kit I want to get

MaroonMonsterLS1

Blow down tube will be for the hot days with the bottle in the car.

Go with a purge system from whoever you get your kit through, they usually save ya some money if you buy together.

If you are really worried about safety, a NOS Launcher has alot of really great safety features. You can set it up with a wideband gauge that will kill the nitrous if it goes lean. it also includes window switch, progressive ramps, etc etc.

There is also the innovate psn1 that will do something similar but with less bells and whistles.

CG88

Definitely will look into those parts, thanks everyone for the help as far as safety. I guess all that is left is any tips on the plumbing for the bottle. I plan on mounting the bottle between the back two seats, so just trying to run the line from inside the car and a bit confused the best way to do that

Jtm2085

iTrader: (1)

I ran mine under the carpet along the plastic for piece and up through the grommet under the pcm

AJatNitrousOutlet

The LS1 will make some great power on even a small shot, so great choice on going with nitrous! There's a few accessories that you haven't mentioned that you really should check into if you want to get the most out of your system and be safe. Here's a quick rundown on them and why you should consider them:

Purge: A purge kit isn't necessarily specific to your vehicle, and it plays a vital role other than just looking cool. A purge will vent air that's trapped inside your feed line, allowing the line to be filled with a constant flow of nitrous. This will help improve performance on the hit. It will also allow you to vent off excess pressure in case your bottle pressure gets to high. If the botle pressure is too high, it can lead to solenoid damage. We offer a few different ones that would work for your application, so here's a link to the ones we offer: http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous...cessories.html

Heater: A bottle heater will help get your bottle up to pressure. Keeping a good, steady pressure will ensure that not only you are getting a clean hit, but that you also aren't going rich on the top end. As you spray the nitrous, the bottle will cool and the pressure will naturally drop. A automatic heater will help counteract that and raise the bottle pressure to a set PSI. We recommend setting the pressure switch to 900-950PSI for best performance on a plate system. Like purges, heaters aren't vehicle specific. Here's a link to the heaters that we offer: http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous...cessories.html

Pressure Gauge: A pressure gauge is a great way to keep an eye on the performance of your system. It will let you know if you're bottle pressure is too high or low, both of which can drastically affect the performance of your system. Pressure gauges can be mounted on the bottle or in the cabin of the vehicle. We only offer a mechanical gauge, but here's you a link to it: http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/lumines...ure-gauge.html

Blowdown Tube: As mentioned above, a blowdown tube is nice to have. Especially in a car such as an F-Body with a glass hatch, the bottle can get very hot from the sun. If the bottle pressure rises to around 3k PSI, it will cause the burst disc on the valve to blow. The burst disc is a safety device meant to release the bottle contents in order to prevent the bottle from failing. If you are in the vehicle when the burst disc blows, the cabin would be filled with nitrous. A blow down tube attaches to the burst disc relief via a NHRA valve, and it will vent the nitrous to the outside of the vehicle. If you go to a track, tech will generally require you to have a blowdown tube if your bottle is inside the passenger cabin of the vehicle. Here's a link to the blowdown tubes and NHRA fittings we offer: http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous...own-tubes.html http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous...-fittings.html

Timing Retard: You can tune your computer using something like HPtuners to retard the timing, but we recommend using the Lingenfelter LNC-2000. The LNC is a better choice over using HPtuners because if you pull timing with HPtuners you would have to load a separate motor or nitrous tune depending on if you are spraying or not. If you just go in the tune and pull x*, you would be low on power when you're on motor. A LNC-2000 though will pull the timing when the nitrous system is activated, and will put the timing back in when you deactivate the nitrous- eliminating the need for separate motor and nitrous tunes. The LNC-2000 is plug and play for the most part and works on LS1,2,3,4,6, and LS7. Here's a link to them if you would like to check them out: http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/lingenf...ontroller.html

Depending on what kind of control and features you are looking for there is a wide variety of window switches and progressive controllers out there. A simple window switch will do the job 90% of the time, but a progressive comes in handy for when you're on a larger hit or can't get traction. Many controllers now have safety features built in like wideband cutoffs, bottle and fuel pressure cutoffs, and more. If you have any questions about controllers or window switches let me know and I'll do all I can to help you out!

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Click the link in my sig for some ideas.

ProServ

A window switch refers to a device with switched outputs that has an upper and lower setting such that you have a range in between where the device/output is active (or inactive if desired).

You can have a window switch that is activated by almost any signal (RPM, MPH, TPS, MAP, voltage etc.).

When referring to a window switch in relation to nitrous systems people usually mean an RPM window switch with a low and high setting that activates the nitrous in between those settings, not allowing the nitrous to be active at too low an RPM and disabling it at a high rpm (usually near the shift point).

Many RPM switch products exist and most offer a window switch function. Earlier switches often had “pills” that had to be changed to set the RPM points. These pills were basically resistors that set the swtich points. Most new RPM switches are digital RPM switches allowing you to change the switch settings with dials or buttons. Digital RPM switches are available from Lingenfelter, MSD, Nitrous Outlet, Nitrous Express and others.

A WOT switch is a Wide Open Throttle switch. A WOT switch is used to make sure the nitrous is only active when you are under full load. WOT switches can be simple mechanical switches on the accelerator pedal bracket or the throttle lever (on mechanical throttle engines) or they can be electronic devices connected to the throttle position or accelerator pedal position sensor. Since EFI equipped vehicles almost always have a TPS sensor, electronic WOT switches are more commonly used in EFI equipped vehicles. Programmable WOT switches are available from companies like Lingenfelter, NOS and others.

Some companies offer devices that can perform both functions (WOT and RPM). Some of the products from Lingenfelter, Nitrous Express, Nitrous Outlet and NOS can do this.

Another option is to get one of the simpler nitrous controller. Most have WOT switch, RPM switch and other features built into a single unit. Some of the simpler controllers are similar in cost to WOT and RPM switches. Some of these simple controllers include products such as the Micro Storm and the NOS Mini nitrous controllers.