NOTFAST

iTrader: (10)

*Disclaimer - street racing is bad*

I'm running a TNT 100 shot 3200-5800 wot switch etc etc...

now, how do you guy that 'race' on the street get traction? I can roll around on ET streets and I can't spray below 60mph or the tires will just roast...I can bump the 3200 activation up to 3500-3700, but thats not as fun.

What kind of street set up do you guys run? Maybe some basic suspension components like LCA, PHR might help me out and be fairly cheap...

BADBOYZ28

iTrader: (228)

Well I have my NOS setup to a switch that I hold in my hand. Once I see that I'v hook & are moving I can spray buty that usually top of my 1st gear and sometimes it will still spin alittle depending on the street.

necrocannibal

iTrader: (5)

Suspension work.

Ben R

HAL shocks/springs all the way around, Subframe Connectors, Lower Control Arms, ET Streets, and a good burnout.

SDB

iTrader: (7)

if you have the ET Streets at more than 15 psi, your wasting time...also, remove front swaybar, get subframe connectors, HAL shocks all around, tubular rear control arms poly/rubber, rear panhard rod bar, ....

I have a 382 stroker with a 150 shot and on the M&H's I am dead hooked at 30 mph from a kick on the juice. Feels unreal, pulls new 750 sport bikes, just perfect...have to have suspension work

BMN

I use a window switch with a first gear lockout. Won't spray till I hit second. I'll PM ya if your interested.

NOTFAST

iTrader: (10)

Looks like I'm going to add some LCA, PHR, SFC, and some new ET streets to my modlist soon...HALS are $ though and im broke...



PM SENT

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

dont forget LCA relocation brackets

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

I'm finally getting my car to some what hook on the street with my TNT set up. Basicly my converter stalls at around 3500rpm so I set the window switch to come on at 4,000rpm. I have also done, Hals, aluminium rod end LCAs & PHB, relocation brackets and a pair of 315 555Rs. The car will still spin to the 1-2 shift but it accelerates harder with the spin than it will N/A. If I don't heat the Nittos before a run I usaully can hit it until the top of first.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

No front sway bar and 255/50/16 BFG DRs.

My 150 comes on at 3400rpm through the window switch most of the time. I do not purge and I baby it off the line (let the converter carry me for the first 30-45ft) and it seems to work ok.

I get a little spin but nothing that will slow me down too much.

I find the 100-125 works best on "closed course" street tracks

Z284U2TRY

iTrader: (5)

For street I usually just run around on a 75-100.

toxic99

I run anywhere from 150-175 NX shot on the street on nittos no less. Sprayin on a cold et street with too much air will usually get you wheel spin. Let some air out and do a good 5-8 sec. burnout and see what happens. BTW, my suspension is all stock and even still have the front sway bar.

VTESPEED

iTrader: (12)

hmmm I just leave on the button and weeeeeeeeeeeee

but i have 28x14.50 hoosiers...

freakynipples69

iTrader: (3)

what does removing the front sway bar do? shouldnt that make your handling/traction even worse?

masterdill

iTrader: (2)

Leave the suspension stock and use a manual activation along with the window switch

If you can't hook you need more pratice, I hook 200 no problem after a burnout on concrete.


... of course remove the front sway bar it wakes up your weight transfer and KEEPS it transfered.

NOTFAST

iTrader: (10)

I think this is what I'm going to do. Run a corded switch that will also work along with my regular switch...just for the street...