How to hook up a 700rwhp F-body?????
07-17-2004, 05:27 PM
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How to hook up a 700rwhp F-body????? Ok guys here it is. This is my setup.
Iron 408
Heads
245/250 630/635 112 cam
Grot headers
TSP lid
MAF kit with lower and upper stage being utalized (150 on both, makes 250 to the wheels)
TH400 with stock 1st gear
PI 4000 stall
SFI plexplate
Inland steel 3.5in drive shaft
Moser 12bolt with 373 gears and a Eaton Posi
Bogarts with 28/10.0/15 rear and ET fronts up front
_______________________
Wolfe 6point cage
Tubular K-member, A-arms (upper and lower)
BMR sfc
wolfe sway bar, double adj LCAs, double adj phb
sphon fully adj torque arm
relocation brackets
Hals all the way around
_______________________
The car weighs in at about 3380 with me in it. I had a 4L60E in the car for awhile and went 6.26 with a 1.38 60ft on a 150 shot. I blew up the A4 trying to get into the 5's. LOL I replaced it with a TH400 that is built completely and has a pro brake in it. I bought a 900 dollar TCI 8in converter (on the brake this verter stalled to 4800) that was alittle big for the bottle. The dyno was over in 1.4 secs. LOL I traded that into them for a 9in converter (This verter stalled to 4600 on the brake). Again there was no shift extension on either one of these converters. I then sold it and got a 4000 PI converter, this one stalls to 3800 on the brake and is quite abit tighter. Every single time at the track with each one of these converters the car would get a best of 1.40 60fts. None of them would help me out in the short time at all. I set the suspension up different every single time. I found that 6 in the rear and 5 in the front made the best time. For eveyone that is reading this. The problem is not bogging out of the whole it is spinning from the line to 20ft out. I can leave on the brake or foot brake it. It doesn't matter it does the same thing. I can leave off of 150 or I can leave off of 250. Both ways it spins. I get a 1.46 60ft on motor and 1.43's and up on nitrous. I have set the pinion angle perfect. I have 0 degrees difference between the 2 working angles. I have -3 degrees of pinion angle. Sometimes the car pulls the wheels 6ins and sometimes it doesn't pull them at all, keeping in mind that with the 4L60E it yanked them 2ft in the air with just a 150 shot. I have been stumped for a couple of months now. I try new things everytime I go out. Never any changes in the short time. I have new Hoosier tires btw. Any input would be great.
I dyno 700rwhp and 780rwtq
best time to date is 6.09@115 in the 1/8
Iron 408
Heads
245/250 630/635 112 cam
Grot headers
TSP lid
MAF kit with lower and upper stage being utalized (150 on both, makes 250 to the wheels)
TH400 with stock 1st gear
PI 4000 stall
SFI plexplate
Inland steel 3.5in drive shaft
Moser 12bolt with 373 gears and a Eaton Posi
Bogarts with 28/10.0/15 rear and ET fronts up front
_______________________
Wolfe 6point cage
Tubular K-member, A-arms (upper and lower)
BMR sfc
wolfe sway bar, double adj LCAs, double adj phb
sphon fully adj torque arm
relocation brackets
Hals all the way around
_______________________
The car weighs in at about 3380 with me in it. I had a 4L60E in the car for awhile and went 6.26 with a 1.38 60ft on a 150 shot. I blew up the A4 trying to get into the 5's. LOL I replaced it with a TH400 that is built completely and has a pro brake in it. I bought a 900 dollar TCI 8in converter (on the brake this verter stalled to 4800) that was alittle big for the bottle. The dyno was over in 1.4 secs. LOL I traded that into them for a 9in converter (This verter stalled to 4600 on the brake). Again there was no shift extension on either one of these converters. I then sold it and got a 4000 PI converter, this one stalls to 3800 on the brake and is quite abit tighter. Every single time at the track with each one of these converters the car would get a best of 1.40 60fts. None of them would help me out in the short time at all. I set the suspension up different every single time. I found that 6 in the rear and 5 in the front made the best time. For eveyone that is reading this. The problem is not bogging out of the whole it is spinning from the line to 20ft out. I can leave on the brake or foot brake it. It doesn't matter it does the same thing. I can leave off of 150 or I can leave off of 250. Both ways it spins. I get a 1.46 60ft on motor and 1.43's and up on nitrous. I have set the pinion angle perfect. I have 0 degrees difference between the 2 working angles. I have -3 degrees of pinion angle. Sometimes the car pulls the wheels 6ins and sometimes it doesn't pull them at all, keeping in mind that with the 4L60E it yanked them 2ft in the air with just a 150 shot. I have been stumped for a couple of months now. I try new things everytime I go out. Never any changes in the short time. I have new Hoosier tires btw. Any input would be great.
I dyno 700rwhp and 780rwtq
best time to date is 6.09@115 in the 1/8
07-18-2004, 03:40 PM
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Get someone to video the rear half of your car (zoomed in) on the launch. This will help to see how the torque arm and LCA's are working together, as well as tell us if the relocation bracket setting is causing it to hit the rear tires too hard or not. Sorry if that doesn't make the most sense, but it's a little hard to explain.
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07-18-2004, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SMOKINV8
Get someone to video the rear half of your car (zoomed in) on the launch. This will help to see how the torque arm and LCA's are working together, as well as tell us if the relocation bracket setting is causing it to hit the rear tires too hard or not. Sorry if that doesn't make the most sense, but it's a little hard to explain.
I know what you are saying, but I can't seem to see what I need to with the vids. When the car squats, that is when you want the LCAs to be parallel with the ground, correct? I heard that you want the TA to be lifting on the front of the car, and the way you tell this is if you could take a lazor light and sit it on the LCAs and TA and when the car squats the intersecting points of the two lights should be at the front bumper area. I can't do this and don't know if there is an easier way of doing it.
07-19-2004, 12:14 AM
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Take your car to a well-known chassis shop.
The car's 4 corners need to be weighed so you can properly set up your suspension. You'll gain more at the chassis shop than you ever will on the internet. Guaranteed.
The car's 4 corners need to be weighed so you can properly set up your suspension. You'll gain more at the chassis shop than you ever will on the internet. Guaranteed.
