If i run bottle pressure at 800-900, can i maintain topend HP throughout run?
07-27-2004, 02:29 PM
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If i run bottle pressure at 800-900, can i maintain topend HP throughout run? Hmm...if i keep a bottle cool or chilled at say 800-900 psi on a full bottle, and tune the nitrous tune with the lower pressure (meaning i would increase the nitrous jet with the lower pressure) would the car maintain more horsepower in the 2nd 1/8th when youve been on the spray for 7-8 seconds. Normally on a run when i leave the line at 1200psi, by the end of the run im down to 900 psi..which i would think would put the nitrous tune rich and down on horsepower on the top end of the run.
07-27-2004, 03:58 PM
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That drop is pretty normal, but I never had a wide band hooked up to confirm the air/fuel ratio through the run. There are some cool in car wide bands out there now that are a 2-1/16" gauge with a digital sweep and a digital readout of the A/F. The best way to watch your runs would be to get one of those and monitor it through the run. If you are into electronics there is a 0 to 1v output that allows you to record the voltage. From there you can convert that back into A/F for the run.
Back to your original question. It's hard to say without putting a gauge on the car and testing it. I'm certain you will not see nearly as much pressure drop as the bottle will normalize easier around 800 or 900 PSI. I'm also not very sure as to what that will do to atomization either. The best place to ask would be to call the NX (or whatever kit you use) tech line and bounce that question off them. I'm sure they've figured out a lot more of the technical issues that you would be facing between the bottle pressure and the nozzle/jet configurations.
Personally, I don't ever worry about it. My plug readings have always been pretty dead on. I could stand to pull a degree or two here or there, but that's really a non issue for the most part. My A/F was perfect during my dyno tuning sessions. And even then my bottle pressure would go from 1150/1200 down to 950. I actually saw the motor go lean though on some of my larger shots. That's when I started playing with the restrictors in the return line on my fuel system. I found that you can actually adjust those to bleed off just enough that you could find the right balance or even easily compensate to either side of the ratio.
Just my $.02.
Back to your original question. It's hard to say without putting a gauge on the car and testing it. I'm certain you will not see nearly as much pressure drop as the bottle will normalize easier around 800 or 900 PSI. I'm also not very sure as to what that will do to atomization either. The best place to ask would be to call the NX (or whatever kit you use) tech line and bounce that question off them. I'm sure they've figured out a lot more of the technical issues that you would be facing between the bottle pressure and the nozzle/jet configurations.
Personally, I don't ever worry about it. My plug readings have always been pretty dead on. I could stand to pull a degree or two here or there, but that's really a non issue for the most part. My A/F was perfect during my dyno tuning sessions. And even then my bottle pressure would go from 1150/1200 down to 950. I actually saw the motor go lean though on some of my larger shots. That's when I started playing with the restrictors in the return line on my fuel system. I found that you can actually adjust those to bleed off just enough that you could find the right balance or even easily compensate to either side of the ratio.
Just my $.02.
07-27-2004, 09:23 PM
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I wouldn't worry about it. Mine does the same thing but my MPH is right on for my ET, so I would say it is not hurting to much. I leave the line at 1050 and end the run at 900. I can put a 15lb bottle in there and it barely moves off of 1000 at the end though.