I have what I like to Call a FrankeN2O kit. Installed in my 2000 Pontiac Trans Am. I will be happy to draw up a diagram of any of the wiring I have installed or take photos if it will help. It has parts from several different vendors and the only part I seem to be having trouble with is the integration of the BMN Nitro Controller to the BG Relay regarding the RPM activation.

I currently have everything installed in the following fashion:

Master Rocker switch in center console provides power to my bottle warmer circuit (NX warmer & relay which works perfectly, turns on at 900 PSI shuts off at 1050), purge button (NX, works perfectly when you press the purge button), power to the BG Nitrous Relay and BMN Nitro Controller.

I have the BG Relay wired as follows:
Pin 86 goes to a 12v power source with a fuse and the WOT switch is in this circuit.
Pin 30 of the BG is connected to a 12V power source with a fuse.
Pin 85 is wired to the fuel pressure safety switch then to the purple wire on the Nitro Controller.
Pin 87 is wired to the Fuel and Nitrous Solenoids.

I have the Nitro controller wired as follows:
Shift Light plug is unused
Black wire to a ground.
Brown Wire to the brakes switched power side.
White wire to pin 10 (white wire) on my 2000 LS1 Trans Am PCM (ESS Engine Speed Signal)
Purple wire to the other side of the Fuel Pressure Safety Switch.

The BMN Nitro controller's red LED Illuminates when I turn on the Master arming switch. The Yellow LED illuminates when I press the brakes, however the Green LED does not illuminate when I exceed 3000RPM.

I do not have the 1st gear lock out enabled currently for testing (I'm an Automatic anyway)
I set the cylinder mode to 8
I set the minimum RPM to 3000, and I set the maximum RPM to 6000 (Rev limiter is 6200)
I didn't think it mattered if I was in park or gear for testing as since the Tachometer on the dash works.

The thing that has confused me by your instructions is that your diagram disagrees with NX's and BG's. Both of them state pin 85 on the relay is for the ground side, and pin 86 is the power side of the switch, but y'all say that pin 86 is the ground and the WOT switch belongs on that side. I'm assuming that it really doesn't matter which way the power flows through the circuit, as long as there is a ground on one side and power on the other. I also assume it really doesn't matter if the WOT or FPS switch breaks the power or ground side because if the circuit won't be completed then relay won't fire the solenoids. (All 3 companies agree that pin 30 on a relay is 12V unswitched and pin 87 goes to the accessory, and the accessories have a ground of their own.

I have used a volt meter with tone to make sure that the WOT and FPS switches are functioning properly. I also proceeded to hook a direct ground from the relay on pin 85 to the chassis and the solenoids fire when I press the WOT switch.

What I am wondering is if the Nitro Controller's purple wire is actually expecting 12v of current coming in from the WOT switch (Even though your instructions state that the purple provides a ground to the WOT) or if the problem is that my ESS signal isn't getting read by the Nitro controller.

From your diagrams and my understanding of things I think everything is wired in a fashion that should work, however I haven't figured out for sure if the BMN is getting the ESS signal or not since the one LED never illuminates. I have a scotch lock connector on the ESS wire. I tried to check the signal coming off the ESS from the PCM, from the scotch lock connector and from inside the Nitro controller, but I only seem to get very minor fluctuations (we're talking 0.15 millivolt changes so either the PCM only puts out a very minor voltage change or I am not making good contact with the voltmeter directly to any of the three locations I tried.)

Do you happen to know the voltage change that the controller is expecting on white wire? If I knew the voltages it was expecting then perhaps I could figure out if the problem was with my Tach connection. If I have to I will re-wire the white wire to a coil pack, but I'd prefer to not have to unloom my engine compartment to run that one wire behind the engine if I don't have to.

Any insight you have would be appreciated.