zerotosixzero

im looking to put a nitrous system on my car, brand new to the forum, brand new to nitrous i have a 99 z28 m6 whisper lid and flowcrapper exhasut. i safely want to dip into the mid to low 12s.

zerotosixzero

i also have 4:10 gears

150shotWS6

Since i'm a Nice guy and some people treat you like **** cause your new or not as educated on N20 or other **** i'm here to help! If you already know this then it will be just a review but if not here are some thing to know! For N20! Every1 is all over NX and TNT because of quality (not putting NE1 down! But I'm a person that does not run with the crowd). Meaning i'm not going get NX or TNT because every1 else is running it! Also they pay more for the kit and other N20 suppliers have just as good quality and performance at a cheaper cost! If your looking for a good Wet kit, I would check out www.NitrousOutlet.com or http://www.speedshop.org/store/scrip...?idproduct=118 cheaper and customer service is the ****. Dynotune has a Dry kit for $350...NICE....Nitrous outlet has some sharp looking kits and has a tight *** warranty for parts! No matter what people say about the purple bottle (people 4get that you can also get the bottle in chrome for $75 more)... ZEX is a safe *** kit and it provide cool add-on to it like the machine gun purge also if you dont want to install it yourself it cuts installation time in half cause it is so simple 2 to 3 hours! IMO I like ZEX a lot cause it is a plug and play system (www.ZEX.com). NOTE: just giving you ideas not tellin you to go and buy! Also be aware the you will need a WOT switch (which comes with most systems) MSD window swich(I like the electric one... about $110). FPSS ($40 - $50) a bottle heater, spark plugs and Nitrous pressure and A/F guages. In my 2001 WS6 I run a 125 shot (to be on the safe side and it's plenty ENUFF power for me and still owning racers on the streets).Also invest in Drag or street drag tires. I say any 125hp shot or over that you will need Injectors(find some nice ones used) heres a link http://66.70.180.37/621031.html and even at that type of shot get a fuel pump(a must) http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...vid=3&pcid=166 ! Just do your research ask as many ?'s to the dealers about their product as possible! Do for yourself not cause others say it is the best cause they have it! You would probably invest about $1500 for a good set up that better than a $4000-$5000 supercharger or turbo. Anymore questions feel free to ask! and heres a helpful link http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html Happy shopping..Hope I helped a little!

zerotosixzero

i bought the Nos #05177 hopefully its a decent kit.

BMN

The 5177 is a rock solid dry kit. You should have no complaints about it in the future. If you jet it for the 100hp shot, you will most likely never have to worry about anything. Just make sure you buy new plugs, NGK TR6's and gap em about .038" for the 100 shot. Using stock plugs is a NO NO! Also, a window switch is the most important piece of saftey equipment you can buy for it. Cheap insurance for your engine.

stadtnw

bigger injector's would be a good idea with a dry kit.

gollum

iTrader: (1)

Cool answer dude.

zerotosixzero

can i hook up the msd window switch to my stock ignition, and what about my rev limiter, it hit that real quick. i was on thunderracing looking at ignition stuff, and i dont really know what to get, ive never messed around with ignitions too much.

150shotWS6

Ntirous kits are built for stock cars! Ok Best thing I can tell you (others may not agree).IMO. But I got my kit professionaly done! Yes I cost more money! But If you find a good shop you should be fine! Also if something goes wrong because of installation they are responsable(in some cases)! I chose not to install any of my parts becasue I see a lot of N20 first time DIY's(do-it-yourselfer's) on this site asking what is wrong with their system! I say that a good shop that intalled it can trace the problem easy because they probably installed many kits! And if they were at fault they pay! To your Ignition ? I have no idea to tell you the truth! (cause mines was intalled by a shop! I ask you how much are you going to be shooting?

What to get.....(MUST HAVES)
1. MSD window switch- pill set at 3400-5800rpm range(so you dont spray if you miss a shift) or you wil hear BOOOM ...lol
2. WOT- N20 is triggered at Wide Open Throttle
3. Bottle Heater - Keeps bottle pressure up so you dont run too lean or rich
4. FPSS- Stop N20 if fuel pressure goes down to low

Safe for later......

1. Purge kit - you really dont need one unless you want that extra .2 tenth of a second drag time.
2. Bottle opener- just so you dont have to get out of you car to turn it on.(note: I have mine in the back seat arch mount. so no need for one)
3. And nitrous stickers- If you want people to know you have it.......lol ...j/k

rons 00z

iTrader: (10)

one thing i suggest is the new fjo/NX window switch. i just bougth one and it's awsome. it has the TPS switch and two window switches combined and if you buy a silinoid driver you can do a progressive shot with it. this part is the heat.

as far as all the feedback i got this is how i view it. dry kit depends on your fuel system and injectors since it makes your fuel system add fuel when you spray. with a wet shot it adds fuel for you but you have the possibility of the fuel puddling in the intake and causing a nitrous backfire. now with a wet direct port kit you dont have this problem and it's more efficiant by adding a more equal amount of nitrous and fuel into each cyilnder during spray.

to increase your safty factor for a dry set up you want bigger pump and injectors just incase you get crazy with the shot. as for a wet kit direct port or just your tradional kit like the tnt power ring a stand alone fuelsystem would be better so you dont suck your fuel pressure down and affect your fuel pressure creating a lean condition. and for nitrous in general heaters progressive timers will all keep your setup safe. i think that should cover everything again along with some info missed

zerotosixzero

think i can smoke a 99 saleen with a procharger with this system. im hoping for mid to low 12s i guess i dont really know what to expect, im going to go ahead and order some new injectors. tech guy at thunderracing said i should be fine with a stock fuel pump, he claims its good for 450 hp as for the fjo/nx switch where can i get that. and also i dont want to spray in first, i keep hearing about a 1st gear lockout switch. I will prob pump a 125 shot. seems safe enough if i have the bigger injectors and the pump.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

First off, the 5177 dry kit is a great starter kit (so are the dry kits supplied by venders), as later you can split the redundant noids for upto 300hp, or turn it wet, or turn it dual stage dry/dry or dry/wet. In my web is a couple of 5177 dry kits installed on vettes, pic number about 37 is my latest dual stage 5177 set-up. Also, in pics is my first gear lock-out (home made), and BMN who replied earlier has a window sw with a first gear lock out built in, if you haven't got one yet (link in his sig). In my web under links is a video install of 5177 and a link to 5177 install and many other links for insight, check it out. You can safely run this kit on a stock engine, stock tune, stock injectors and fuel pump, I suggest logging for a/f. If you have any specific questions you can PM or ask on forum, cause many guys can/will help.

150shotWS6

On thing about the 5177 kit it comes with a big 15lbs bottle (tacky to me). To the saleen question! It all depends! You you can spray out the hole and keep traction you should be fine. If you get the first gear cutout switch then you N20 kicks in 2nd, It would really depend on driver and how much your shooting! If it was me I say your beat him but not "smoke him"....QUOTE..."No matter if you win by a inch or a mile winning is winning"

PS. So you dont worry about N20 backfire(which really doesnt happen much) but IMO I would go with a Dynotunes dry kit cheap and simple go with 125 shot and own plenty of cars on the road! http://www.speedshop.org/store/scrip...?idproduct=118

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yea, the 5177 does come with a somewhat clunky #15 bottle, but, I like it for the performance aspect. You will have less pressure drop per run, and thus, better consistancy. You can also trade the #15'er in for a 10 and use the balance owed for more speed goodies.

150shotWS6

True True True

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

get a fuel pump- it is cheap security. if you don't you'd be stupid imho. otherwise it seems like you are on the right track.

the switch with the 1st gear lockout i think is the harlan window switch, or maybe dynotune makes something now.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

or if your a cheap bastard like me, do what i'm doing. get another WOT switch. see my post down the page - 1st gear lock out

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

...and me.

zerotosixzero

i dunno if spraying off the line is a good idea for me with the 125 shot. you think i would see a better et. if i used the kit at the 75 shot and sprayed off the line. or would it be better to just spray 2nd and 3rd on the 125. i dont think i can handle a 125 right off the line. to afraid of destroying my stock rear end

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

You'll have to see. Depends on traction, launch rpm and of course those combined with your rear end. you can launch low and feather your way into your sixty then wide open throttle. take it to the track and make some progressive launches, you'll see what you can/can't do. Just don't do any mongo launches with your 10 bolt (I assume).