nitrogen push
#1
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nitrogen push
Heya,
I'm starting my nitrous system (finally!) and I had a question for those of you with N2 push systems. How do you disconnect the N2 (to get your N2O bottle filled) without the N2O coming out? Do you have a valve of some type?
I've looked at the pictures that have been posted but none of them show this part with enough detail to make it clear.
Does anybody know of a quick disconnect that can handle this type of pressure?
Those of you who are doing it, how are you doing it?
I'm starting my nitrous system (finally!) and I had a question for those of you with N2 push systems. How do you disconnect the N2 (to get your N2O bottle filled) without the N2O coming out? Do you have a valve of some type?
I've looked at the pictures that have been posted but none of them show this part with enough detail to make it clear.
Does anybody know of a quick disconnect that can handle this type of pressure?
Those of you who are doing it, how are you doing it?
#2
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I used a check valve with a 4an fitting on it, I do not use a quick disconnect but rather just a 4an steel braided line. On my setup im using a small nitrogen paint ball setup.
Look here for pics and good Info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/293506-tech-tip-pusher-systems.html
Look here for pics and good Info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/293506-tech-tip-pusher-systems.html
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I use a check valve as well. I keep it capped though for servicing. I dont want the check valve popping while the local speed shop guy is servicing the nitrous. That could be dangerous.
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Thanks guys!
I found a quick disconnect that can handle it. It's made by snap-tite, rated for 3000 psi operating conditions. It's not completely hand operated (most of them have max connect/disconnect pressures around 150-300 PSI), but, but it's threaded and it takes 20 in/lbs to connect @ 500 PSI, which comes out to about 3.6 ft/lbs to operate @ 1100 psi.
The only problem is I realized, even if I put a quick disconnect at that point, I have to also disconnect it at the N2 end to fill the N2 bottle. So I guess there's no benefits over using a check valve like you guys.
So check valve it is..
I found a quick disconnect that can handle it. It's made by snap-tite, rated for 3000 psi operating conditions. It's not completely hand operated (most of them have max connect/disconnect pressures around 150-300 PSI), but, but it's threaded and it takes 20 in/lbs to connect @ 500 PSI, which comes out to about 3.6 ft/lbs to operate @ 1100 psi.
The only problem is I realized, even if I put a quick disconnect at that point, I have to also disconnect it at the N2 end to fill the N2 bottle. So I guess there's no benefits over using a check valve like you guys.
So check valve it is..
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Hey folks,
I realized that since I'm going to have that dedenbear solenoid between the N2 and N2O, I'm going to have to disconnect the pipe at both ends anyhow (to leave the solenoid mounted in the car), so I need a quick disconnect after all.
I found a check valve / quick disconnect made by snap-tite that is rated at 14,000 PSI and also has light effort for connect/quickdisconnect (20 inch lbs to connect at 500 PSI - so presumably about 45 inch/lbs @1050 psi).
If anybody is interested, the part I used is a "series 76" coupler and nipple, and they run about $30 for the pair.
Steve
I realized that since I'm going to have that dedenbear solenoid between the N2 and N2O, I'm going to have to disconnect the pipe at both ends anyhow (to leave the solenoid mounted in the car), so I need a quick disconnect after all.
I found a check valve / quick disconnect made by snap-tite that is rated at 14,000 PSI and also has light effort for connect/quickdisconnect (20 inch lbs to connect at 500 PSI - so presumably about 45 inch/lbs @1050 psi).
If anybody is interested, the part I used is a "series 76" coupler and nipple, and they run about $30 for the pair.
Steve