OK to spray at 2750 or 2500 RPMS?
#1
OK to spray at 2750 or 2500 RPMS?
Would it be OK to spray at 2750 or 2500 RPMS being that I'm using a progressive controller to easy car into it? Or is it still a bad idea? (My car def needs a boost around 2500!)
Thanks,
somebody
edit: A4 LS1, LTs, CAI, Lid, MAF, TB, NX wet shot
Thanks,
somebody
edit: A4 LS1, LTs, CAI, Lid, MAF, TB, NX wet shot
#2
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i spray at 2000 rpms on both cars. the sooner, the quicker you are. some will say don't because of puddling and some other reason. been doing it for a year now. motors are still together. stock motors.
#3
I just started spraying at 2750 instead of 3000 in my 04 GTO, works great. The car is a dog out of the hole (auto, stock converter/gears, etc). There is a noticable improvement spraying at 2750 instead of 3000....no puddling issues yet.
SDB
SDB
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3000 rpm is just a round about number thats generally safe to spray at. But you have to be very very very very careful about going lower. If you are spraying a 150 shot at 3000 rpm and then go to a 2000 rpm activation point...TQ will be through the ROOF!. I would definately not recomend it.
Seeing as you have a progressive controller...you should be able to get away with 2500 rpm. Just check it on the dyno and see what the Tq level is at. For a stock bottom I dont like to go much above 600 rwtq.
What prgressive controller is it? If its time based you can test it on the dyno but it may be different on the street. Under certain curcumstances you could spike the TQ more on the street if it takes longer to get going.
In your case it sounds as though a converter would be a better choice than to lower the activation point.
Seeing as you have a progressive controller...you should be able to get away with 2500 rpm. Just check it on the dyno and see what the Tq level is at. For a stock bottom I dont like to go much above 600 rwtq.
What prgressive controller is it? If its time based you can test it on the dyno but it may be different on the street. Under certain curcumstances you could spike the TQ more on the street if it takes longer to get going.
In your case it sounds as though a converter would be a better choice than to lower the activation point.
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here's what a 200 shot at 2000 rpms on a completely stock motor with only a SLP airlid netted me with stock 245/50-16 goodyear tires. stock fuel system, stock programming, stock converter, stock trans, 3.23 gears, and champion RC9YC plugs.
just kidding. that's the burnout i did. here's the timeslip.
just kidding. that's the burnout i did. here's the timeslip.
Last edited by mrr23; 07-11-2005 at 09:26 PM.
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When you sprayed the 200 shot did it actually spray at 2000 rpm? Or did you dump the clutch and pretty much stay well above 2000 rpm for the entire track run. The only place you would possibly see the 200 shot AND 2000 rpms would be in first gear.
I will say that if you are in fact spraying a 200 shot at 2000 rpms...you are on borrowed time. I am sure your TQ is well over 700 ft/lbs. If its not your either not spraying a 200 shot or its not coming on till the higher rpms. I would not recomend this at all, in any way shape or form. You should be running race gas or have massive timing retard to prevent the massive cyclinder pressure from a 200 shot at 2000 rpm. I cant stress this enough. The RPM factor becomes greater as you get closer to 0 rpm.
I will say that if you are in fact spraying a 200 shot at 2000 rpms...you are on borrowed time. I am sure your TQ is well over 700 ft/lbs. If its not your either not spraying a 200 shot or its not coming on till the higher rpms. I would not recomend this at all, in any way shape or form. You should be running race gas or have massive timing retard to prevent the massive cyclinder pressure from a 200 shot at 2000 rpm. I cant stress this enough. The RPM factor becomes greater as you get closer to 0 rpm.
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#8
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according to the dyno graph it doesnt look like the nitrous came into play until after 3500 and doesnt reach full power till almost 4000 rpm. If you had actually sprayed off idle and let it kick in at 2000....it would not be good. In your case I would move the activation poin tto 3000 or 3200 just to be safe.
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well, i don't have a clutch, i have an auto as stated. (stock converter in above post). basically, i floor it when the lights come down, flip the switch at 2000 rpms. anytime time you mod, you live on borrowed time. but, yes you are stressing the motor more, the lower you hit it. the 200 shot nets me about 150ish at the wheels. you might be thinking 200 at the wheels. mine's rated at motor.
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
according to the dyno graph it doesnt look like the nitrous came into play until after 3500 and doesnt reach full power till almost 4000 rpm. If you had actually sprayed off idle and let it kick in at 2000....it would not be good. In your case I would move the activation poin tto 3000 or 3200 just to be safe.
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it's your car. do what you want. but, expect to pay the consequences when something happens.
383LQ4SS - i'll be at bradenton on the 17th of this month if you want to come out and watch. i'll be bringing the wife's car.
383LQ4SS - i'll be at bradenton on the 17th of this month if you want to come out and watch. i'll be bringing the wife's car.
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thats why its living. Just be careful! You may catch yourself under a curcumstance one day where it actually hits at 2000 rpm. because you have an auto with a higher stall it will likely just flash up to a higher rpm almost instantly under little load. So for safety sake you may as well set it to 3000 rpm. Actually it sounds as though you are activating it manually?
I window switch wil be a nice addition for you and keep from having to flip that switch Set it around 3000 or so.
I window switch wil be a nice addition for you and keep from having to flip that switch Set it around 3000 or so.
#13
Damnit, I swear everyone from LS1.com is over here, lol. Almost 900 people right now. Anyway...
I'm using the new Maximizer II and I will be spraying in first gear. So... it'll start at 0% at 2750 I suppose. Since it IS first gear, I have it progressing until 5900 RPMs, at which point it'll hit 100%. After that the settings are different (3500-4000 RPMs, 50%-100%). I'll be using the 200 jets. Everything is NX too (except the 20' feed line).
By the way, is 5900 too high of a cutoff point??? I haven't done anything to raise the rev limiter. I just figured everyone used 5800 since the MSD pills only go in 200 incriments (unless I'm wrong)
Thanks,
somebody
I'm using the new Maximizer II and I will be spraying in first gear. So... it'll start at 0% at 2750 I suppose. Since it IS first gear, I have it progressing until 5900 RPMs, at which point it'll hit 100%. After that the settings are different (3500-4000 RPMs, 50%-100%). I'll be using the 200 jets. Everything is NX too (except the 20' feed line).
By the way, is 5900 too high of a cutoff point??? I haven't done anything to raise the rev limiter. I just figured everyone used 5800 since the MSD pills only go in 200 incriments (unless I'm wrong)
Thanks,
somebody
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yes i do it manually on both cars. window switches are problematic.
the wife's car has a stock converter still. i just recently put the yank in the black car. at bradenton i was still engaging at 2000 rpms. i'm sure the converter starts to flash more when i hit it. but, the 11.97 and 11.99 run was when it had all stock stuff. i like low ETs.
the wife's car has a stock converter still. i just recently put the yank in the black car. at bradenton i was still engaging at 2000 rpms. i'm sure the converter starts to flash more when i hit it. but, the 11.97 and 11.99 run was when it had all stock stuff. i like low ETs.
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Originally Posted by Somebody09
Damnit, I swear everyone from LS1.com is over here, lol. Almost 900 people right now. Anyway...
I'm using the new Maximizer II and I will be spraying in first gear. So... it'll start at 0% at 2750 I suppose. Since it IS first gear, I have it progressing until 5900 RPMs, at which point it'll hit 100%. After that the settings are different (3500-4000 RPMs, 50%-100%). I'll be using the 200 jets. Everything is NX too (except the 20' feed line).
By the way, is 5900 too high of a cutoff point??? I haven't done anything to raise the rev limiter. I just figured everyone used 5800 since the MSD pills only go in 200 incriments (unless I'm wrong)
Thanks,
somebody
I'm using the new Maximizer II and I will be spraying in first gear. So... it'll start at 0% at 2750 I suppose. Since it IS first gear, I have it progressing until 5900 RPMs, at which point it'll hit 100%. After that the settings are different (3500-4000 RPMs, 50%-100%). I'll be using the 200 jets. Everything is NX too (except the 20' feed line).
By the way, is 5900 too high of a cutoff point??? I haven't done anything to raise the rev limiter. I just figured everyone used 5800 since the MSD pills only go in 200 incriments (unless I'm wrong)
Thanks,
somebody
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i think there is nothing wrong with the nitrous at any rpm as long as the tune is good.
mrr23- are both of your cars auto? im not a big fan of switches and yadda yadda.. im just kinda worried about hitting the limiter w/ a stick.. ive never raced a stick car before, everything has been autos for me.
mrr23- are both of your cars auto? im not a big fan of switches and yadda yadda.. im just kinda worried about hitting the limiter w/ a stick.. ive never raced a stick car before, everything has been autos for me.