XTrooper

I received my EFI single nozzle wet system from Nitro Dave/Nitrous Outlet yesterday and I'm just starting the installation this morning. I'm a bit confused with all the small parts between the system itself and the GenX-2 accessory kit I also purchased. I'm starting with the bottle and moving my way forward and already have a question so I hope some of you experienced fellas will be able to help me along as I run into snags.

Anyway, here are my starting questions: my first question is,

1. Can I use a single blue "manifold" to connection both the bottle heater pressure transducer and the N20 pressure gauge? Since these appear to be regular pipe threads, do I use the thread sealer on them?

2. What is the thin metal tube approx. 6" long in the GenX-2 accessory kit for?

3. Does it matter where I install the nitrous filter? Does it matter either I have it under the hood or back by the bottle?

4. Finally, how do I connect the purge solenoid to the nitrous solenoid. The directions that come with the nitrous system say to connect the purge sol. directly to the nitrous sol. using the supplied threaded outlet while the purge sol. directions show the use of one of the blue manifolds being used on the supply side of the nitrous sol. and the outlet marked P (purge) not being used at all. Also, how do I connect a plastic tube from the purge to the windshield area? There must be a half dozen little fittings in the kit.

Thank you!

jamnut

iTrader: (4)

1. Yes, I use the same fitting for both my heater transducer & pressure gauge.
2. 6" tube is for Purge discharge, I custom made longer tubing to spray my purge out of the nostrils on my Firebird.
3. I run mine back by the bottle, but if you do that make sure that after you hook up the nitrous line & filter that you blow out the line really good to clear any debris before hooking up the nitrous line to the noid.
4. I do believe that you nitrous noid should be marked with in/out/purge. But if it's not, I do believe that nitrous goes in one side, then out from the bottom of the noid to the Nozzle, then out the other side to the purge noid. So both your nitrous & purge noid should be standing up in the same direction.

jamnut

iTrader: (4)

To further clarify the purge noid to nitrous noid connection, the purge noid & nitrous noid should connect by a male to male 1/8" npt fitting, the nitrous noid is a direct pass through. Then on the back side of of the purge noid it's a 1/8" NPT to purge tube.

XTrooper

Thanks a ton, jamnut. Your answers are a big help to me. I think I've got the nitrous/purge solenoid deal figured out now. Here's a pic. Does that look right? I haven't tightened anything up yet.



Oh, one other thing..........I got a short piece of line to "splice in" the nitrous filter with the main line. The problem I'm having though is that the blue female fittings on the ends of this short piece don't want to turn onto the male fittings by hand like all the others. Should I have to use a wrench on them after only a turn or two by hand? I don't want to hurt any threads.

Thanks again!

jamnut

iTrader: (4)

I've never had to force a fitting on a flare fitting, that sounds kind of fishy to me. I'm sure that if it will definatly fit, it's ok, but I've never had to personally force one on. Hopefully someone on here can give you a definate answer on that one.


BTW that's how that should look in my book. It's a good idea to fit everything up before tightening up & thread locking. So you are doing right just mocking everything up before tightening up & thread locking.

XTrooper

Ok, I think those fittings are definitely buggered up. The good news is that I just happen to have another one of those same 7" nitrous female/female lines and those went on just fine.

David@TNT

Did ya get it lined out?? Thanks David@TNT

gollum

iTrader: (1)

It is "much safer" to put pressure transducer on bottle valve, simply remove one of the 1/8 npt plugs from bottle valve and install transducer using red loctite to seal threads. The reason why I say it is more safe: Say you put the pressure transducer in the supplied manifold. If you forget to turn bottle valve open when bottle heater is activated, the transducer will receive a low pressure signal causing your bottle heater to "over heat bottle and bursting safety valve.

I mounted my Nitrous/Purge solenoid on F body drivers side shock tower and hard lined my purge line using 3/16 brake tubing from Advance autoparts (very easy to bend neatly). Route the purge line center of drivers view under rubber hood seal.

My fuel solenoid is mounted on end of fuel rail with Earls part # 916104erl (-4 female to 1/8 male NPT swivel) www.summitracing.com

I ran my -4 main nitrous line from bottle, along OEM fuel lines into solenoid. Try to find a factory rubber grommet to route line thru in place of drilling a hole thru sheetmetal.

Installing a nitrous kit can be a real bitch for the begginer. Just give it lots, lots, lots of thought, do a neat job, and do not over engineer (keep it simple).

XTrooper

Thanks, gollum. Actually, I ended up putting both the pressure gauge and the transducer directly on the bottle valve just as you describe. The valve that came with my bottle had two plugged ports opposite each other which were perfect spots for the gauge and transducer. There a nice rubber gromment just behind the battery on the C5 which I can use to get what I need into the engine compartment.

XTrooper

Yes, thank you, David!

What I REALLY need now is the location of a good ground in the rear area of a C5. Is there one?

Thanks!

BLOWNTRC5

iTrader: (2)

I have the same problem with the 7" line that came with my NX filter. I just got it from Dave last week. It may be a bad batch of fittings, good thing I had an extra!!

Good luck with the kit!!

Doug

XTrooper

Thanks, Doug! You too!

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yea, good grounds are hard to find. I ran a #10 wire through corner of spare well and connected it directly to frame at bolt that holds muffler in place. Now I have one common ground for all my stuff in the back. Do you know where your going to exit your purge yet?
Robert

jamnut

iTrader: (4)

I wish I had the option to do it that way, but I usually carry 2 different bottles to the track. I need to be able to swap bottles quickly & don't want to have multiple sets of transducers.

terry s

iTrader: (5)

XTrooper:
Keep us posted on how you are coming. I am getting ready to install my NX kit also. I was curious to see if there is a ground in the back also. I would think there would be one somewhere for the lights etc.

I suggest putting the filter close to the solenoid so it will catch anything that is in the line.

I am looking at mounting the solenoids to the front of the pass. cyl. head above the themostat housing. But I need to find a good way to insulate it as NX says not to mount to the head because of the heat.

Terry

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I have my noids on the head, what I did was space them off about 3/4inch with SS tube. Pics in my web. I think there is a ground for lights, but I could never find it, or any other in the rear compartment area.
Robert

XTrooper

That's a good idea regarding the ground, Robert. Actually, I've pretty much decided that I'm going to run the nitrous line through the frame rail as others have done so I may as well use that location for the ground. Thanks!

No, I have no idea about the purge exit nor where I can locate some thin, black tubing for that purpose. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Finally, I want to install the NX switch console assembly in the ashtray area, but how do I get to the wiring behind there? Do I need to cut out the plastic that's left back there after I pull out the ashtray? Do I need to remove the stereo head unit bezel and, if so, how do I go about doing that? Thanks again!

Airwolf

iTrader: (2)

X,
I did have to cut the plastic behind the ashtray AND bend some of the metal in there to get the switches flush. It may be different on my Z, but I can't see why. As far as tubing goes, I used a 3' steel braided line from a Paintball store. This stuff is rated at 3000+psi and already had the 1/8" fittings on it. I installed mine directly into the purge solenoid, ran it to the front under the nose clip, installed the 6" steel tube at the end and secured it the the bumper hook underneath. I use to have it exit out my drivers side front screen, but with the Vararam I had to move it.
As a side note, I ran my line in the car. I pulled all the carpet and secured it along the side. I personally felt it was safer there, and there is a huge hole in the firewall on the passenger side for everything to go through. Just a thought.
Good luck!
P.S. I found a few pics of my setup when I first had it. They may help some.

Here is where my purge was:


Here is how I had my nozzle before the DTE plate:

XTrooper

Airwolf/Mike,

That is all very helpful. Thanks!

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

That's exactly why I went with the electricial randucers at 95*. One, so just dropping bottle heater to change bottle (transducer stays with heater) and higher temp transducer for higher bottle pressure (great tuning for dry, changing press).
Robert