There must be a big difference in wet to dry nozzles...
08-01-2005, 02:36 AM
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There must be a big difference in wet to dry nozzles... I have been beating my head against a wall, trying to convert a wet setup to dry. Gee, whats it take, remove fuel solenoid and line, route additional line from nitrous Y fitting to NX Shark Nozzle. Move nozzle Pre-MAF. No problem, jet it and go. Wrong. I did all that, and first time out, I believe I froze the MAF, looking at the log I got some wacky *** values and ran slower than I would NA. So moved the nozzle from the neck of the lid aimed at the MAF, to the side of the lid and cut the end off the nozzle so it would fire straight out the end, but make a 90*. Ran it and the still went slower than NA. I felt a little something, so fired it with the car off, lid open. The modified nozzle shot the nitrous straight across the lid, hitting the opposite wall and froze the filter, which also relfected in the overly rich condition (must be hard to draw air through a frozen filter 
). Today, I drilled the nozzle so it would open up some, in hopes of making a nice plume, rather than an Injector type spray pattern. No luck, ran it on the open road, felt it come on a little bit, but nothing spectacular.
I looked around the internet and it looks like dry nozzles have a built in plume type on the tip, making for a cloudy discharge, not a direct firing tightass spray pattern. Damn it.
). Today, I drilled the nozzle so it would open up some, in hopes of making a nice plume, rather than an Injector type spray pattern. No luck, ran it on the open road, felt it come on a little bit, but nothing spectacular. I looked around the internet and it looks like dry nozzles have a built in plume type on the tip, making for a cloudy discharge, not a direct firing tightass spray pattern. Damn it.
08-01-2005, 06:33 AM
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Charlie, save yourself some trouble and pick up acouple of the NOS 90* fan sprays. They are like $15 a peice. I've had good luck with mine even though I'm not putting a huge shot through it. Their jet stlye ones that come in the 5177 work pretty well too. Did you pull the screen off your MAF?
If it helps any, here's how I mounted mine.
If it helps any, here's how I mounted mine.
08-01-2005, 07:45 AM
#3
Charlie,
Last year when i was spraying a big dry shot I had to take my filter out. It would condense so much water in the lid the filter would be wet and plug. I also found while shooting on the dyno with the clear lid that the nitrous would never make it to the other side. As far as the non fanning nozzle goes you can make your own jet/ nozzles as i did for my second stage on my old dry kit. buy a brass 3an fitting (male) and file the beveled section off. then use a drill to open the hole for the stem of the jet. you also have to use a bigger bit to bevel the top of the hole as the top of the jets stem has a radius on it. I put a washer on top of the lid then screwed a "t" on it on the inside of the lid. I also drilled and cotter pinned the "T" so it wouldnt fall off. Also lock tite (paranoid I guess) sorry the picture is blurry. Im holding a regular an fitting and a 90 fitting with a jet in it that i made. I got the fittings at home depot. Let me know if I can be of further help
Last year when i was spraying a big dry shot I had to take my filter out. It would condense so much water in the lid the filter would be wet and plug. I also found while shooting on the dyno with the clear lid that the nitrous would never make it to the other side. As far as the non fanning nozzle goes you can make your own jet/ nozzles as i did for my second stage on my old dry kit. buy a brass 3an fitting (male) and file the beveled section off. then use a drill to open the hole for the stem of the jet. you also have to use a bigger bit to bevel the top of the hole as the top of the jets stem has a radius on it. I put a washer on top of the lid then screwed a "t" on it on the inside of the lid. I also drilled and cotter pinned the "T" so it wouldnt fall off. Also lock tite (paranoid I guess) sorry the picture is blurry. Im holding a regular an fitting and a 90 fitting with a jet in it that i made. I got the fittings at home depot. Let me know if I can be of further help
08-01-2005, 10:38 AM
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Thats it, I'm ordering me a clear lid. To hell with the guessing game. One clear lid, one day at the dyno, done!!! ]
GM-
damn nice setup.
Been descreened since month one with the car. I would have already picked up a NOS dry nozzle, but I have so many NX jets laying around I got stubborn. I am guessing the Edelbrock dry nozzles take the same jets as NOS? They sell them on island so thought I would ask.
Ray-
Good God, how many stages, styles and systems do you run?
So, the T fitting is upside down, allowing 2 90* fittings/ 1 each side, each with a jet screwed into the T? The 90* fitting has the jet at the T and then is open on the opposite end right?
Damn, I want so bad to get the dry side working, its almost discouraging. I keep telling myself, there is a reason you dont see anyone else running a wet nozzle converted over to dry, but pioneering CAN be fun....just not this time!
I will try !filter next time, which I almost did Sat night, after seeing it gained about 1/2pound and was frozen on the inlet surface!
GM-
damn nice setup.
Been descreened since month one with the car. I would have already picked up a NOS dry nozzle, but I have so many NX jets laying around I got stubborn. I am guessing the Edelbrock dry nozzles take the same jets as NOS? They sell them on island so thought I would ask.
Ray-
Good God, how many stages, styles and systems do you run?
So, the T fitting is upside down, allowing 2 90* fittings/ 1 each side, each with a jet screwed into the T? The 90* fitting has the jet at the T and then is open on the opposite end right?
Damn, I want so bad to get the dry side working, its almost discouraging. I keep telling myself, there is a reason you dont see anyone else running a wet nozzle converted over to dry, but pioneering CAN be fun....just not this time!
I will try !filter next time, which I almost did Sat night, after seeing it gained about 1/2pound and was frozen on the inlet surface!
08-01-2005, 11:10 AM
#5
So, the T fitting is upside down, allowing 2 90* fittings/ 1 each side, each with a jet screwed into the T? The 90* fitting has the jet at the T and then is open on the opposite end right?
The "T" only has the one 90* fitting going into it. The close up has the lid upside down. The entire engine bay picture shows the outside of the lid. The center nozzle near the front of the lid is the custom piece. the 2 on the side is the factory 5177 nozzles. I dont use the dry kit anymore the direct port is sized to run a 500 shot when i get a tranny that will hold that lol. I put the 240 jets in and am going to NvS this weekend should be fun. I need to buy a new lid and sell the 2 stage 5177 kit. I took it out as a package i only cut 2 wires in one place when i took it out so it should be a very easy installation for someone
The "T" only has the one 90* fitting going into it. The close up has the lid upside down. The entire engine bay picture shows the outside of the lid. The center nozzle near the front of the lid is the custom piece. the 2 on the side is the factory 5177 nozzles. I dont use the dry kit anymore the direct port is sized to run a 500 shot when i get a tranny that will hold that lol. I put the 240 jets in and am going to NvS this weekend should be fun. I need to buy a new lid and sell the 2 stage 5177 kit. I took it out as a package i only cut 2 wires in one place when i took it out so it should be a very easy installation for someone
08-01-2005, 01:17 PM
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I need to buy a new lid and sell the 2 stage 5177 kit. I took it out as a package i only cut 2 wires in one place when i took it out so it should be a very easy installation for someone!
Gee if that aint a hint huh? Shoot me a pm with details, and pricing. Just so happens I am looking into buying a new lid myself. My current one is old, seals but thats about it, and now it has so many test holes in it, looks like an overhead view of a golf course!
I was thinking you put two 90* on the two open ends of the T, but now I see whats up. You used the 90*, the jet and then the T inside the lid for a dual outlet (probably made for a much nicer "fog"). Damn nice.
Gee if that aint a hint huh? Shoot me a pm with details, and pricing. Just so happens I am looking into buying a new lid myself. My current one is old, seals but thats about it, and now it has so many test holes in it, looks like an overhead view of a golf course!
I was thinking you put two 90* on the two open ends of the T, but now I see whats up. You used the 90*, the jet and then the T inside the lid for a dual outlet (probably made for a much nicer "fog"). Damn nice.
08-01-2005, 02:13 PM
#7
Cat, the pic that koolrayz shows with the tee (at noids) is in fact the 5177 set-up. The dual nozzles facing each other allows fog to be maintained in the center of box. Many have used this set-up to 300hp shots. That is why my quad dry nozzle set-up is semetrical. Also, the 5177 uses propriatary sweep 90* fiitings at the nozzles which flow the best compared to standard 90* fittings (which should be avoided imo, on larger hits).
The pic that GM Muscle showed is the pic of the set-up I tried to explain in the other thread.
Koolrayz, nice engineering on your home made dual inlet tee. How did it work? What size shot did you run through it?
Robert
The pic that GM Muscle showed is the pic of the set-up I tried to explain in the other thread.
Koolrayz, nice engineering on your home made dual inlet tee. How did it work? What size shot did you run through it?
Robert
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08-01-2005, 03:18 PM
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Robert, I installed part of 5177, had leftovers, on a guys car, only has one nozzle and its making good with it. I could either get the lines - fittings - nozzles for a 5177 and use that, or if Ray gets back to me, just pick up a completed package. Will see. But I am definately going to get some dry nozzles on.
I'll get a pic up later, but without having a dry nozzle in hand, I went at the sharkie with a drill. So, not only is the discharge tip cutoff right after the threads, but instead of seeing two small holes I drilled it out. I merged the two holes, well up inside the nozzle, and widened the discharge area. Still has a point type discharge, as there is no proprietary sweeping disrupter on the end. F* that was a lot of time into that little nozzle for nothing other than "will it work". I am too determined to go dry to give up though. Hell, I swapped in the Bosch 34# (39.x lbs @ 58psi) just to do little shots, until my Motron 60's come in.
I'll get a pic up later, but without having a dry nozzle in hand, I went at the sharkie with a drill. So, not only is the discharge tip cutoff right after the threads, but instead of seeing two small holes I drilled it out. I merged the two holes, well up inside the nozzle, and widened the discharge area. Still has a point type discharge, as there is no proprietary sweeping disrupter on the end. F* that was a lot of time into that little nozzle for nothing other than "will it work". I am too determined to go dry to give up though. Hell, I swapped in the Bosch 34# (39.x lbs @ 58psi) just to do little shots, until my Motron 60's come in.
08-01-2005, 07:56 PM
#9
Up on a closer look, koolrayz has his dry set up as a dual stage. One stage goes to dual nozzles, and the other stage goes to a single nozzle.
Yea Cat a single dry nozzle does work fine as the 5177 is split up into a dual stage all the time. It prob has more to do with the exiting orifice size, as it's big. I would go measure one the 5177 nozzles, but I am working on my Harley while I wait on clutch repair, and want to get some juiced times with it this summer.
Robert
Yea Cat a single dry nozzle does work fine as the 5177 is split up into a dual stage all the time. It prob has more to do with the exiting orifice size, as it's big. I would go measure one the 5177 nozzles, but I am working on my Harley while I wait on clutch repair, and want to get some juiced times with it this summer.
Robert
