SSBLUBYYOU

iTrader: (5)

I'm new to nitrous and need some help. My current new engine: 5.7 block w/ Mahle forged pistons (rings were gapped for 150+ shot of nitrous when installed), Callies rods, ARP main & rod bolts, LS2 timing chain, new Clevite bearings, T-Rex cam, LS6 oil pump, ported TB, LS6 intake, 5.7 heads (ported by a very good local shop in my area), REV 2.02"/ 1.60" valves, bronze valve guides, Patriot dual springs, titanium retainers w/ Super Seven locks,...I will be upgrading the fuel pump with a Racetronix kit and using SVO 36# injectors too. Unless you have a better suggestion on the fuel system needs before I buy them. All of this is through a Moser 12 bolt w/ 4:10's and a built 6 speed tranny. Now that you know my set up so far please help me out with a good wet kit. My goals are to be able to run 10's ...and make over 600 HP on the juice. What all will I need as far as accesories to make this a safe combo( well as safe as nitrous can be). I want to spray a 200 shot. Of course I will have all of this dyno tuned after I install. I hope running 10's isn't asking for too much with a 6 speed car with out doing a ton of weight reduction. It does have Eibach drag springs w/ air bag, BMR torque arm, panhard rod, LCA's, and weld drag wheels. Sorry for the long post...thanks!!

1FSTBRD

iTrader: (1)

I Would Look At A Direct Port System It Cost A Little More But Worth The Money With The Setup You Have I Would Say A 200+ Shot Nx Makes A Sweet Kit But Works Best With The F.a.s.t. Intake Sounds Like An Awsome Setup

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

If all you plan on spraying is a 200 well then A NX single nozzle ore a NX maff kit would be a great way to go.If you fell that you may eventually want to spray 250 pluss in the future I would consider looking into a directport system.You will need your normal accessories such as a bottle heater,purge,nitrous pressure gauge and window switch.What ever you do I suggest a quality NX system.If I can help in any way send me a pm and let me know.
Dave

SSBLUBYYOU

iTrader: (5)

Dave I just PM'd you ....keep the ideas coming...thanks!

SSBLUBYYOU

iTrader: (5)

ttt again

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

If you want safe then go with a dry system.
A friend of mine here shoots 200hp dry into a stock 98 C5 vette auto and goes 11.0 @127.
He has about $400 in parts (solenoid, lines, guage, bottle, button).
He uses Edit for the tune.
Going dry avoids a large amount of safety issues & risks.

2001stripper

How so? I was under the impression that the wet system with its combo of nitrous and fuel helps to prevent any lean conditions.

1ScrudeDude

Wet safety vs. dry safety is a debate that can go on longer than a monopoly game.

2001stripper

I got all the time in the world.

Ravenous T\A

iTrader: (12)

Go with the Durex Tingley Lotion(Blue Bottle), that ***** the Best, I like it super wet and that adds to the Fun

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

It's hardly any debate. It's no comparison.
Nitrous distributes much better in the intake than fuel ever will.
Hitting the rev limiter on the bottle will not lean you out like a wet kit will do.
A backfire will not blow your intake apart like a wet kit will.
the list goes on and on...

860 Performance

iTrader: (1)

"It's hardly any debate. It's no comparison.
Nitrous distributes much better in the intake than fuel ever will."

I put 300 hp worth of nitrous through the TB of my Lt1 intake. Fully atomized fuel distribution is not a problem at reasonable levels. All 8 plugs look great after my runs. And like Dave said if he wants to go over 250hp then go to wet direct port, where distribution is garanteed equal.

"Hitting the rev limiter on the bottle will not lean you out like a wet kit will do."
ummm... window switch

"A backfire will not blow your intake apart like a wet kit will."

Backfires don't just magicly happen, a window switch is your best insurance agaist them. Also, again, if he goes wet direct port, then fuel is mixed with the nitrous damn close to the factory injectors, not increasing or decreasing the chance of a backfire.


SSBLUBYYOU, I'd recommend doing a search on this topic, your thread is taking a turn, and there are hundreds, probably thousands, of posts on wet vs. dry already.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Why do they make fuel injector cleaner? Just wondering what would happen if one of those 8 injectors were gummed up and you did not know it.What if one of those 8 injectors locked up and you did not know it.What if your maff sensor went bad and the car leaned out and blew up.What if your fuel pump failed and you leaned out and blew up.Face it with any after market performance add on you are taking a chance on something going wrong.WET OR DRY follow the rules dont half *** it and have fun.

Come on man Im tired of reading all your one sided misleading post.If you like your dry kit good for you.I have nothing against dry kits.All your hate against wet kits and claims of anycar on a wet kit is going to blow up.LOL Do a count see how many people run wet kits versus dry kits.These people have not blown up.there motors.It comes down to product knowledge and following instructions. I can take the same car and run better times with the wet kit versus the dry kit.This is why most people prefer a wet system.
Someone please start a poll on who uses wet systems versus dry systems
Dave

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

Even better yet start a poll of how many people who have blown up their intake and were using a wet system vs dry.
You know your whining about my posts just discredits your opinions.
The fact stands that in any given situation, the dry system is safer.
I run both wet and dry systems and I'm not a N2O system distributor, so you can't claim I have that kind of bias.

lsevenl

iTrader: (5)

Dave's comments are simply an effort to keep the thread on topic and not turn it into the ubiquitous wet v. dry debate that oddly enough seems to occur whenever you decide to give your opinion. Certainly your concern for everyone's well-being has been adaquately expressed by now.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

OK THIS POST IS MOSTLY FUELED FROM WHITE2001S10 PREVIOUS POST IN OTHER THREADS.


LOL,First of all we sell DRY and WET systems.In my openion we have the best DRY KIT on the market.
Its not rocket science you take the same car wet and dry the car with the wet system will walk it all the way down the track.I have dyno tuned many cars and the car with the wet system always produces more torque.I have seen these post on the internet where someone has blown the intake off there car.Everyone of them is because someone did something stupid.We tell these people time and time again use a window switch.And how about the guys that lug the car on the dyno.Duh you should know better to bring a nitrous system in 4th gear at 1500 rpms.Some people do stupid things then they know better next time.Yes I have seen these same back fires happen with dry kits.I will give you this.The dry kits back fire is not as violent as a wet kits.This is where the theory that a dry kit is safer comes in.Well the dry kits have just as many dangers if not more than a wet system.The only difference is with a dry kit you can get away with being STUPID alittle more than a wet system.So with all the tech advice available and all the product knowledge available.Pick the system that fits your needs best and have fun.Im not saying the wet system is a bad kit because I like them.However I also like to be the faster guy at the light so I prefer to run a wet system.You know whats funny out of all the installs we have done I have never had one of our customers come back with a messed up car or one that has experienced a back fire from the system we put on.Whats our strategy........? We teach the customer product knowledge! We teach the customer the dos and donts.WE will not budget install a system.Every install gets a window switch and fuel pressure safety switch. My theory is this.If you do not have the money to buy quality parts with the safety devices you do not have the money to put a new motor in your car so DO NOT RUN NITROUS.Wet or dry this is not a good thing to build on a budget.

White2001s10.Im gald to see you in the nitrous community here on LS1 tech.We are all here because we have the fact that we love nitrous in common.Im also glad you found a set up that works great for you.There is nothing wrong with sharing what you like to the other board members or your freinds.But when I read countless post from you on other peoples threads just out of the blue banging on a wet system or a new product on the market because its a wet system I feel its uncalled for.Even if I hated dry systems I would not go into anyones dry system post and say Oh great its another dry system.You just wait your going to spray and your injector is going to lock up about the same time your maf is going to go out and your going to burn a piston.Theres just a time to keep your openion to your self.
Dave

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

So, back on topic......go with the NX wet kit, that's just my $.02, don't forget your TR6s!

1ScrudeDude

That's what I just did

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

How about the best advice to give ANYONE new to Nitrous is link them here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140389

and after that if they still have questions fire away!


I prefer nitrous, I dont care how it gets into the cylinder, as long the fuels there to support it! I'd personally like a Dry tuned launch shot, followed by a progressively timed dry direct port, with staged injectors, and a 2nd stage of Older MAF Wet!

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

I have actually been trying to separate the facts from the B.S. on here. When wet advocates post things like the above quote, less experienced tuners and nitrous users believe it and that's a problem.

It's not an issue of rocket science or a simple comparison between "your" dry system and "your" wet system.
Those who understand how the code in the PCM works would know your claims quoted above are very misleading. And when you say you've dyno tuned many cars on nitrous, my own opinion is that it's ineffective to try to tune for nitrous on a dyno in the first place. Second I question if you mean tuning the PCM calibration or just the nitrous system?

If you're actually tuning PCM, then you must know how different the tune will be between and wet and dry system, and further that you can run a dry system without a MAF in SD mode.
From your argument though, it doesn't sound to me that you are aware of many important facts.

For those who do not know (possibly including you?), here are some facts about wet vs dry.

The PCM will sense no added load with a wet system and therefor add no additional fueling or decrease the spark advance during N2O activation. This leaves you with a more aggressive tune than the typical untuned dry system.

With the normal (MAF used) dry system, the PCM senses much more added load which puts you lower in the VE table and much lower in your spark advance table. This runs the engine pig-rich, often maxing the injector pulsewidths, and with very little spark advance unless you actually adjust the calibration (tuning) to correct for this.
The factory calibration is already too rich when running NA, but the added load of the nitrous passing through the MAF creates an over-rich situation.
You'd be comparing 10:1 AFR with 18* advance against 11.5:1 AFR with 26* advance... hardly a fair comparison.

This means that an equally jetted wet system will make much more power than the dry, unless the tune is also equaled. If each system was running the same spark advance and the same AFR, then you'd see pretty much identical power output from each. Using a dyno to show positive results in an un-fair test is not a new idea or uncommon, but I'm calling B.S. on your testing.

The only thing a dry system would fail to match would be the fuel distribution error that the wet system would be giving you.
Being so, this would potentially allow you to tune leaner with the dry system before generating a problem.

The advantage in cost, potential power, and safety go to the dry system.

Just because the typical wet system is running with more spark advance and a leaner AFR, does not make the wet methodology superior to the dry. It only means that you're not comparing similar tunes anymore. A good tuner could absolutely get as much or more power from dry nitrous delivery. It seems that you are admitting to not getting a good tune for your dry system customers.

Before you try to claim all of this as theoretical, forget it. I and others have already done the tests and established the facts.

My discussion excludes port systems, but by the same means that gives dry N2O delivery the advantage over wet-flow, a port-injected N2O system is superior to both. Port delivery minimizes distribution error for both the N2O and fuel.

So why would someone choose a dry system when they could spend over twice the cash, and require several added safety devices by running a wet system? I have no idea, but it just doesn't seem as cool to go dry.