Low bottle pressure or relay problem?
09-26-2005, 05:42 PM
#1
Low bottle pressure or relay problem? We sprayed a dry shot on the dyno with a clear lid to watch how the N20 acts.
What we saw was the inital hit looked good then the pattern would tighten up (like the botlle pressure dropped )or the noid was closing for a split second (almost like a progressor) then it would fan back out again quickly and hold it through out the run.
The problem is it would hit the maf hard then not on the drop then hard again.
That would cause a lean spike because the maf cant react fast enough.
2 questions
1. What is a good pressure for a DRY shot (max effort)
2. what type of relays are you guys using?
What we saw was the inital hit looked good then the pattern would tighten up (like the botlle pressure dropped )or the noid was closing for a split second (almost like a progressor) then it would fan back out again quickly and hold it through out the run.
The problem is it would hit the maf hard then not on the drop then hard again.
That would cause a lean spike because the maf cant react fast enough.
2 questions
1. What is a good pressure for a DRY shot (max effort)
2. what type of relays are you guys using?
09-26-2005, 10:57 PM
#2
Bosch relays mostly here. this is why I mounted my dual nozzles the way I did in pic. The spray from each nozzle hits the other stream and disapates somewhat and mixes with incoming air. I am about 3-inches from MAF but angled down about 22*. Biggest shots still give a smallish lean spikr though. I run 95* electric thermastats and equals 1150 psi, so I am a blasting. A buddy mounted his nozzles lower in the same intake (Vararam) and blew two holes in his air filter from freezing and pressure. Mine is fine cause of the nozzles hitting each other, maybe something to think about.
Dual nozzles, you can clearly see the axis.
Quad nozzles and mucho nitrous comin through
Robert
Dual nozzles, you can clearly see the axis.
Quad nozzles and mucho nitrous comin through
Robert
09-27-2005, 09:33 AM
#4
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The rush no rush you are seeing is what I would call nitrous flow/nitrous boil.. When the nitrous system is first opened you get a huge rush of pressurized nitrous flow from you line, then it calms down but just for a split second and then picks back up, once the nitrous starts to boil inside your tank... this is the time delay from flow to boil.
I have seen this on many many flow tests, since your system is aimed at the maf the maf pickups up on this flow change..
the nitrous needs to be sucked into the engine not injected in ( dry kit stuff )
. Rotate you nozzle so it dispurses the flow, like hitting the side of the lid or something, turn the psi down 1000psi and less... Try again..
Ricky
I have seen this on many many flow tests, since your system is aimed at the maf the maf pickups up on this flow change..
the nitrous needs to be sucked into the engine not injected in ( dry kit stuff )
. Rotate you nozzle so it dispurses the flow, like hitting the side of the lid or something, turn the psi down 1000psi and less... Try again..
Ricky
