Forged now ... what next?
11-03-2005, 07:10 PM
#1
Direct Port no longer an option ... I had my 346 forged. Transmisison blew up si It's awaiting the new one. DP isn't an option anymore ... money isn't there and I want power. Can you help me decide on an alternative to a direct port setup?
I'd just spray a 200 hit through shifts, but, the rearend is stock with new factory 3.73's, new HD Eaton posi, and MAC girdle cover for support ... afraid of breaking it.
1. Could I get away with a 200 dry shot?
2. Can a big dry hit use a progressive controller?
3. I have a newly installed Racetronix elec FP and 30# SVO injectors. Will my fuel system now support a 200 dry hit?
4. Is there a timing controller I can remote into the car to retard the timing 4-6* for when I spray 200?
I'd just spray a 200 hit through shifts, but, the rearend is stock with new factory 3.73's, new HD Eaton posi, and MAC girdle cover for support ... afraid of breaking it.
1. Could I get away with a 200 dry shot?
2. Can a big dry hit use a progressive controller?
3. I have a newly installed Racetronix elec FP and 30# SVO injectors. Will my fuel system now support a 200 dry hit?
4. Is there a timing controller I can remote into the car to retard the timing 4-6* for when I spray 200?
Last edited by JEB99TA; 11-04-2005 at 05:37 AM. Reason: Change Title
11-04-2005, 08:10 AM
#2
FormerVendor
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Glenolden, PA
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sure, you could do either a big dry shot or a wet shot. You can use a progressive controller with a dry kit, although it won't be as effective as using it with a wet kit. Your injectors will prolly be a bit too small for a 200 dry shot, but you're fuel pump will be good, for either a dry or wet 200 shot. If you do use a dry shot you'll be okay with the timing, as it'll pull a few degrees. If you end up going with a wet kit look into the LS1 Timing Tuner to pull your timing. It'll allow you to run full timing NA and only pull it when you spray. Here's a link to it for more info:
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...age=1&featured
Matt
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...age=1&featured
Matt
11-05-2005, 06:39 PM
#5
If your worried about breaking then I would agree a progressive. Dry is fine and will be easier on your drive train. you can pull timing with a dry hit in your tune, directions/write up in my web on how to. I agree your injectors may be a limit going to 200rwhp, so you should log and work your way up checking a/f, injector duty cycle and knock retard. Most of the vendors will try to talk you out of going dry, but I think it's a good choice. You can also pm me with any questions if you like.
Robert
Robert
11-06-2005, 08:35 AM
#6
Looks like a relatively easy install ... and you've got me seriously considering maybe starting off with a progressive 125 or 150 dry kit. Of course, I would definitely do all the safety features you did.
If I do it myself, it would free up more money to do the 9" rear. I'll def have questions and I liked the write-up's on your web page. Thanks for sharing the information and your generous offer for help.
If I do it myself, it would free up more money to do the 9" rear. I'll def have questions and I liked the write-up's on your web page. Thanks for sharing the information and your generous offer for help.
