330racing

iTrader: (11)

Looking for a cam. Car is NOT a daily driver. I am leaning toward the patriot cam 226/226 .589/.589 112 LSA. I like the specs on the cam and it is cheaper than some of the others.

Mods in sig. Any help would be appreciated.

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

any cam well defintely help, but most full on nitrous cams will be split duration i.e. 226/228 .575/.585...the only advice i can give is pick a cam for where the car is goin to spend most of it's time, if you spend more time crusing than racing then obviously you'll want a "smaller" cam for torque down low, if you spend more time racing then go big, if you spray everytime you race get a dedicated nitrous cam, make sense ?......good luck

wilddawg

I donot have a cam spec for you but I have some helpful hints in picking a cam.
1. A motor is a air pump and what ever you put in need to get out just as fast. The cam you have picked will work with nitrous but it won't be very efficent.
2. You want to pick a cam that have at 10 degrees more duration on the exhaust than intake. reason being is you are forcing nitrous in the more so you need to allow more duration to scavenge the cylinders of the nitrous.
3. The cam needs a wide lobe seperation to make the most out of the nitrous. Tight lobe centers just blow gas out the exhaust.
4. More valve lift on the exhaust side by at least .30 will heap also.
5. Duration does not matter weather it is big cam or small just as long as you have those charateristics of a cam. YOu can gear and add stall for the cam you pick. Stay within a duration you motor can handle.
6. Example of a cam @ .50 specs
218in /228 exhaust @0.50
lobe separation 116
center line 110
.510 in / .540 exhaust
This cam will be very nitrous efficent

Airwolf

iTrader: (2)

If you are staying under a 150 shot, really any cam will work fine. If you are building a big shot nitrous engine, then cam specs come more into play. Basically, if you are staying in the 150 range, get a cam that makes good power NA and the nitrous hit will be a bonus... The cam in my sig is an OTS and works great NA and great on the gas and is not a monster cam like some of the more popular cams are these days.
Good hunting on the cam!!!

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

With your set up and that small of a shot, upgrading your exhaust will help power more with the nitrous than a custom camshaft. Nitrous increases the exhaust volume that you have to move through the system.
I wouldn't spray with CATs in the exhaust ever.
If you must run a restricted exhaust system (mufflers) then I agree an exhaust biased split on the cam should help.

If you're planning a bigger shot later, since you have an automatic my suggesting is to keep the intake duration down around 210* @.050 and have the intake open relatively late (retarded) or a couple of degrees after TDC @ the .050" reference.
The exhaust opens relatively early (advanced) for quicker blow-down, and closes relatively early (advanced) to reduce overlap and keep a wide lobe sep.

An example of overall specs that might work well with a bigger shot could look something like this.
210*/226* I/E duration .550"/.550" lift 116* LSA
The best exact specs are going to depend on the engine, RPM range, compression, exhaust efficiency, and flow specs on the heads to name a few.
My example is just generic. In some cases the best cam would look nothing like that. I think this example would work okay for you because of the automatic and that you'll probably have some exhaust restriction.

Lots of overlap doesn't work so well for nitrous, and especially not with restricted exhaust.

Big intake duration is not a good match for an automatic with a relatively low shift recovery RPM. One might say a bigger stall would fix this problem, but bigger stalls don't work so well for big nitrous shots, so it's a matter of having the best combination for the job. With a lot of nitrous flowing you don't need a long intake duration to fill the cylinder, and you really don't need to shift the power peak up at all. Nitrous tends to shift your quickest shift-point down the RPM range a little. It's not uncommon to show a higher average horsepower on the bottle with an original shift point of 6000 RPM, but have the car actually run quicker E.T. on the bottle by shifting at 5500 RPM.
This short-shifting on the bottle is quite common.

I hope this helps some in your decision.

330racing

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for all the info. It sounds like if I stay with a small shot the initial cam I was interested in should work (226/226 .585/.585 112Lsa) and get longtubes and y pipe to open up the exhaust. It should make good power NA and like was posted above will be a bonus when the nitrous hits.

Thanks again

Homeslice (tm)

I went with the LPE GT2-3 with 1.85 rockers.

1BAD02WS6

iTrader: (-1)

so with my reverse split cam the nitrous isnt going to act so well? but i should be fine as long as i keep it under 150 shot?? i dont plan on more than that anyway.


btw cam is X1 230/227 591./571. 112

330racing

iTrader: (11)

I ended up with a Futral F-11 on a 114LSA after talking with them. Guess well see how that works out!

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

I was told that also. But my car is a monster on a 150 wet shot. First tim out it ran 10.87, 10.82, and a 10.99. And the car is not tuned for the juce either.

The cam I have is a TR 230/224, .575/.562 on a 110.5 lsa.

390 RWHP NA.

Never dyno'd it on the bottle.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

"Best times of 05 11.90 @ 116 N/A. Best 60' 1.51, 10.82 @ 126.20 on a 150 shot."

The 10 MPH gain with a 150 shot sort of tells the story there.
Nitrous works great no matter which cam you go with,
but the point is that there is still a difference. You can set the car up for maximum performance NA, or maximum performance with the bottle.
Some cars might gain 5 MPH with 150 shot, and another might gain 20 MPH on the same shot. The average is 14 - 15 MPH gain.

It's definately not neccessary to change cams in order to get good gains from nitrous.
The reason some people set their cars up for the bottle is because nitrous as a power adder is the most efficient and affordable way to make the power. Helping it work more efficiently is a big advantage when you're relying on the nitrous to make the power. Some people don't like to rely on the nitrous and others do.

Spenser309

why a huge split with nitrous? one guy reccomended 10*. The nitrous isnt being forced in there. Increasing Overlap should be fine- theres no huge amount of exhaust pressure, that could cause reversion, or null the effects of leaving the exhaust open long after the intake opens. It almost seems as if an NA cam would be fine, maybe even a lil more overlap, so as to make sure its all nitrous in the cylinder instead of air. I'm not an expert by any means so i guess i just want to know why, the huge split, and the large LSA's? ( i didnt calculate the overlaps but they seem like they should be small)

Navy David SS

iTrader: (13)

Go with what works for you. If your car is not a daily driver, I would suggest a bigger cam. Why have a small cam that makes no power. Your cam will NOT be the only limiting factor. Heads??? Exhaust?? Intake? I have a cheap set of PP heads - Stage II, LS6 intake, SLP headers (at that time), but good suspension set up and a TSP 231/237 595/597 on 112 cam. On stock bottom end the car ran a best of 10.08 at 132+. The car could have easily been driven on a daily basis. Than I broke the engine with a **** eating wheel stand. When properly tuned, the LS1 engine absolutely loves nitrous. (I know of a member of this board that uses a 26?/26? 62?/64? on a 110 - 300+ shot - and runs low 9's.)

SO basically go with a cam that suits you - IMO bigger the better. Get a good set of heads, build up your exhaust and intake. Make sure your suspension is going to handle the power you are going to be putting down. Get a damn good tune. Than GO OUT AND KICK ***.

David

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

The drop in temp means better cylinder filling. N2O also carries more oxygen into the cylinder that burns with the extra added fuel. This adds up to much more exhaust.

Like I said before, it doesn't take a specific cam for nitrous to work well. It works well with about any cam. It just comes down to how you want to set up your car and how much you want to get out of a particular size shot of nitrous.

It's very possible to run great with a lot of overlap. You will just need to pump in more nitrous which isn't that hard to do at all. In some cases the power curve produced by the greater overlap will turn quicker times. Like I said it all depends on the whole combo.

Spenser309

Well, the situation i was thinking about in my conclusions was a non-directport system. Where overlap could be used to bleed the system of air? Iono, really if it would work or not, ive never had the money to try it. lol. Iono its more an idea, than true practice.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

why is a 111 so much worse for spray then say a 116?

seems like everything on my cam leads to spray except the 111 lsa

(242/248 .610/.615)

Benjamin Russick

iTrader: (1)

I agree with a little extra exhaust duration... I'm running a custom 234/236 which is overkill with my current 100shot, but since I plan to hit it with the 150shot, I think it will really scream.

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

itll work just creates a bunch of midrange cylinder pressure which on nitrous we usually have too much of. helping scavenge the cylinder better at rpm makes use of the cylinder pressure your motor is already making but not using.