BTLFEDSS

iTrader: (12)

What would be the best way to set up a dual dry stage.As far as what are RPM's to set the two stages to come and off.Probably run both to the same rpm shut off on the window switch.This is on a m6 car with 3.42's and a first gear lock out,keep it or loose it.Any info you can help me with would be great
BTLFEDSS

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

here is a dyno graph of my first dual stage controlled with dual window switches. The idea is to get the two Tq peaks around the same area. Naturally after the first stage hits the Tq will spike and immediately begine to taper. You want to bring the second stage in after the first stage Tq drops off a certain amount. Where bringing on the second stage will bring that tq line back up even with or just a bit higher than the first stage. Obviosuly on this graph had I brought it in at 4200 instead of 5000 the Tq spike on the second stage would have been much higher than the first...so its spaced out a bit. use the shot size and rpm you hit each stage as you parameters to adjust to achive an even Tq output. The humps should be roughly the same peak and spaced over your usable RPM range.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Al has given the basics, however, his mondo torque even up that high prob would have been the end of a stock, clutch, rearend, driveline and/or tranny on my car (6-speed), but the idea is the same as what I have done. Actually Al is my dual stage mentor.
What I have done is used a window sw for 1st stage and a RPM activated sw for second stage (could use two WS). Second stage has a 1st gear micro sw wired in at shifter that controls only the lock out in first gear/2nd stage. Then I have 1st stage coming on at 3000rpm in first gear, then once I shift out of first the 2nd stage comes on at 4100rpm and they both continue through run and shut off at 6400rpm, with shifting at 6500rpm (saves wear/tear on stock tranny). Now I have a 3rd stage that is also locked out in 1st gear and it also comes on in 2nd gear at 5100rpm. the graph below is only 2-stages and is jetted for a little higher hp than the run in my sig. Works very good and I win a lot of races with this set-up and have 150 passes with no breakage of any sort. Spreading that torque out for a more linear torque curve is the key, and adding my third stage will enhance this whole concept and allow for an even bigger hit in the upper rpms where it can do the least amount of damage to stock parts. Hope this give some insight into this process/idea.

Remember, this dyno is of a absolutley bone stock long block, not even headers. next pic is of the 1st gear lock out sw at shifter. All are form my web site, and more pics and stuff in links section for more insight.


Robert