TS6

iTrader: (41)

I am thinking of converting over to a dry system, and since I don't/ can't tune my own car, I want to make sure my tune would be safe for a small (125 or smaller) shot. Right now my car runs right around 11.9-12.0 A/F ratio on the wideband during a pass on motor. What will adding a dry shot do to it? I want to be safe. I also have a timing tuner to pull some timing and have a window switch.

Thanks for the help!

227Hawk

iTrader: (1)

I'm guessing you're pretty much maxed tune. Without knowing if you're tuner has
added timing . But yes if your running that rich and on a pretty stock curve you should be good to go. You probably should throw a FPSS on there to.
Hawk

TS6

iTrader: (41)

I have a fpss now. I think I am on stock timing tables right now, I'll have to check for sure.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

You should be fine, no timing pull need under 150hp shot normaly. a/f is fine for a smaller shot. even if you need timing pulled you can do it in tune and it won't affect n/a timing (or timing tuner if ya must). how-to write up in my web.
Robert

227Hawk

iTrader: (1)

The only reason i'm bringing up the tune is there are quite a few tuners adding to the
stock tables. For N/A this is good for N20 not good. A tricker will pull timing but if the
table has been shifted it will still leave you with to much advance.Not saying this is the case, just something to think about.
Hawk

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Understood and a good point, and an additional point is with a dry hit no timing tuner is needed as timing can be pulled for spraying only in tune.
Robert

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Do I have to descreen the maf with a dry shot? I plan to position the nozzle as far from the maf as possible, like the side of the lid or something.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

yea that's the general rule on dry hits, junk it, as it's just a restriction anyway.
Robert

TS6

iTrader: (41)

My tuner said not to descreen the maf, it messes something up. I think because it straightens the airflow out or something? Basically descreening it may cause false readings I think. But alot of guys do it.....

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Well here's a little insight in the screen. In '02 the Z06 came without a screen, engineers decided they really didn't need it, and to reach their new hp goal they found it to be a restriction. Yes evry once in a while descreening will cause a code, but why. because it's flowing more air and your tune likely was on the edge already. Normaly a screen is needed when making a 90* turn in the intake, to straighten it out (turbulance and incorrect reading by maf after a 90*). A straight shot of air from airbox to maf doesn't need it. A good tuner knows how to tune for screen removal if needed. Oh and running a dry shot can freeze on/in the screen.
Robert

PREDATOR-Z

I used to spray 150 dry on stock tune. Trick is also fuel octane and 1 step colder plugs (.032>.038 gap).
I have 12.5 AFR with dual (200 shot), 26* timing, TR6 gapped .035 and 98 octane.
No issues.
Your tune is way rich.

Yeap descreen MAF, actualy I modified mine, I put the back end up front (some grinding required), and I put an open end (from my ex Granatelli POS) in back.
If you take a look at your stock MAF, you'll see that the divider in back runs all the way to the lip of the MAF end and is a little thinner, giving you better distribution on both halves with a little better flow.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

I have TR6's gapped I think at around .035 right now. Basically the car is set for spray, I'm just leary of all the factors involved in a wet system. Like if bottle psi drops, you get way rich. If bottle psi drops with dry, you just get a smaller shot.

PREDATOR-Z

Dry is safer, that is for sure, and some of the myths that it doesn't perform as well is also fantasy. However the dry system will be limited to the MAF parameters which with stock f-body is around 550>600rwhp on juice.
Important things to do is :
1- Start smaller and monitor AFR
2- A wideband guage is like GOLD.
3- Do not spray too close or directly at MAF. That just freeze it and doesn't allow it to adjust AFR properly.
4- Bottle pressure is important 900>950 psi
5- Always run 93 or better gas as shots go up in size. (I'm lucky to be in an area of 98 octane premium)
6- Check you plugs regularly.
7- Fuel pressure regulator at he rail is also highly recommended to maintain proper psi under load.
8- Bigger injectors needed for 420 rwhp or more on 28lbs injectors.
9- Again fuel supply is imperative (I use Racetronix PnP 255 with harness)

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Well it sounds like I have all the bases covered. I have a WB in the car, good fuel pump and injectors, fpss, window switch, etc. It just seems like most guys go from dry to wet, not wet to dry. I hate to take a step back if thats the case. And since I can't tune I am limited.

I wish I didn't know as much as I do. I had an LT1 car years ago and sprayed the bejesus out of it never paying attention to plugs, bottle psi, or anything. Just open bottle, push button, go fast! Ignorance is bliss. I don't have a ton of time to wrench on the car so I want the simplest most reliable system possible.

All I really want is to run a 10.xx in the 1/4, and I've been 11.5 on motor so I don't think its gonna take a big shot. I'm hoping a 75-100 shot will do it.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

The guys that go from dry to wet usually do so because it's easier than checking your parameters for a larger dry, but not safer. I have been stating for a few years on a few forums for someone to speak up who hurt their motor running dry, not takers yet, now can we say htis about wet, hardly. It's just as easy to get 10.xx with dry as wet. Look at my sig, a bone stock longblock and 125rwhp dry in the 10's, and over 150 passes and have broke/hurt nothing, so dry works just fine in the power department when set correctly.
Robert

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Well I need to buy a good solenoid for dry and a nozzle with jets for 75-100-125. I should have everything else. Maybe a small length of hose to go from the solenoid to the nozzle. Also where should the dry nozzle be mounted? I have a crappy lid and I don't see where I could put it. Some lids have vertical sides that are great for mounting nozzles. Not mine. I'd have to put it towards the back of the lid and I'm afraid its too close to the maf.

Also, off subject kinda, but how can I clean the maf wires? I put in a new K&N and want to make sure the maf works good when I spray.

227Hawk

iTrader: (1)

My dry shots come in from the bottom of the lid 'neck'. I haven't froze or had any problems. The only problems with dry are when spraying into the MAF end.
My .02
Hawk