ws6sojuiced01

iTrader: (1)

Im having a 2-3 shift issue on the spray it hold the shift for like a half sec before shifting. But this is the second trans and this one is built and it only does it on the bottle. Also tq mg has been taken out. Any info would be great. O and the last trans was still good no problems other than this 2-3 thing that im thinking is somthing other than the trans.

ws6sojuiced01

iTrader: (1)

So its just me then great

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I am not understanding what your saying.. What do you mean 2-3 holds the shift for a second? !TM, did you modify your shift times, pressures, or anything? And are you using a WS so to not spray thru the shifts?

Black02SS

iTrader: (36)

Shift times have been decreased a small amount, firmness has been increased by a small portion. He is using a window switch incorporated into the Harris Speed works box. I "think", as I haven't had a chance to look at the car again, that it is turning the n20 off before the car makes the shift and it feels "slow" due to the car being back on motor only.

Christian8A

iTrader: (14)

I have the same problem
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CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Chad, (if your the GLMS tuner I have heard a lot of good stuff about your work BTW) I prefer to leave pressure/time alone, especially on a trans with shift kit...seen too many trans ruined. So basically the issue is, he is spraying, then at xxxx rpm the WS shuts the juice off, the car continues to accelerate, however slowly, until the shift, then the WS lets the juice flow again...and it seems the 2d to 3rd shift is not like the 1-2, its is longer, slower, more drawn out? How far from shift rpm is the WS settings? If you tune the shift points to match the WS off +40rpms it will flow like smoothness. If they are a couple hundred off it will seem worse. The WS and Trans control both get the rpm from the PCM, so if you set the shift up closer to WS settings (never seen a WS with macro-pills like 6154rpms ) there shouldnt be an issue of blowing past preset rpm. Might be off maybe about 10 or being the readings are generally slow.

Charlie

Black02SS

iTrader: (36)

Thanks for the kind words. His tranny is fully built, without a shift kit as far as I know. We were unable to tune it with the n20 as he was having a small problem with his HSW box operating properly (user error not mechanical). I am thinking that they are a few hundred RPM off between the two. He is in the military and I have been busy on a FI car that we aren't able to meet up before he is off again.

ws6sojuiced01

iTrader: (1)

I have the nitrous set to turn off at 6150 now so ill go test it later and see what happens. and yes Chad is the man i just wish my nitrous was working for the tune but that was my fault. Thanks CAT-3 for your help also hell we are stationed at the same base lol.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Juiced, I thought you went back to IN? Or is that just leave? I seen the wheels pics in another thread and thought you'd up and moved or something.

Chad, I understand the issues your fighting all too well. As I get ready to move myself, I have been getting most the cars over to another tuner friend here so leaves me more time to do my thing.

GL

Brains

iTrader: (7)

If you're spraying through the 2-3 shift, and the trans commands the shift but doesn't actually make it into 3rd gear, it means your 3/4 clutch pack simply cannot handle the power. This is VERY common in the 4L60e. If you're spraying through the shift on a built transmission and its not shifting into 3rd gear, go back to your rebuilder and have him do it again. 3rd gear is the toughest gear to make hold, get good shift feel, and to get the shift timing (hydraulically) correct. Only a handful of tranny builders that I've personally dealt with have ever been able to do it reliably and predictably.

ws6sojuiced01

iTrader: (1)

( Brains) O man ill be pissed if its the trans

(Cat-3) No just on leave car stays here in IN all the time better for it that way or id be blowing it up every weekend lol.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

what i did= (but i have hptuners) ** took me like 5-7 bottles to get it perfect, my issue was that when the spray would shut off my rpms would drop back into the window and the spray would hit again for a split second, then it would turn BACK off and shift . juice makes the car flash higher and it reaches the rpm faster than it would n/a (obviously)

take the rpm table out of the picture, tune the shift point using the mph table and leave the window switch as the constant. you can't do that so i propose this...

first fill the bottle, get it up to pressure etc... if possible borrow a bottle from a buddy and fill that also, as it can take a while and alot of runs- lower the window switch to shut it off at 6050.

you have to do a FULL run also, i found that if i just hit it in 2nd gear my 2-3 shift would be fine and smooth, with the juice shutting off for a split second during the shift and then on again right into 3rd. then if i raced the car i'd have the same shifting problem- and i would only race from a dig... so heat up the tires on a long stretch of deserted highway/road and let her rip!

if it takes longer up the window switch to 6200 and see what happens. spraying through the 2-3 shift one time i doubt will roast the clutch pack, but if it does happen to stay on during the shift you have to lower it back down. you may be surprised to see that you could maybe go to 6250 and it'll be perfect, dunno.

i just set the window switch at 6k and tuned the mph up from there, but since you can't tune your own car all you can do is play with the window switch for now.

also, make sure you don't set it above your rev limiter . hopefully you know where that is.

good luck, and believe me it was a major pain in the *** to get my car how i want it- but it was worth it!

ws6sojuiced01

iTrader: (1)

Im realy hopping thats it, it has made some progress, the higher i go the shorter time it seams to take to shift but im out of juice at this time but will do more passes with it Friday to see.