MeanWS6

Mods in sig....
Did 479rwhp na, tossed in the jetting for 200 shot and "only" got 641rwhp (162hp increase). Bottle's are full, have my own NX refill station FP PSI is ~58-60psi, 11.0 A/F ratio, nice and smooth on the dyno graph, dual nozzles in bezel before MAF. It hits hard as hell, I mean hard. Purged air out before run.

Could be:
1. NX bottle heater is only heating up to 800psi. I can have this thing on all day and hit wont go over 800PSI. Heater shot or shutting off early?
2. blowing through 4000stall in TH400
3. Using jets, 52/31 each side - wrong jetting?

EDIT: MEANT NOZZELS BEFORE TB, NOT MAF

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Thats not bad at all

My car pcks up about 180 to the wheels with a 200 shot but it is set up for the spray.

N20 cam , big headers and tight converter

I run mine at 1,000 PSI .... does your heater have a automatic cut off ?

Take it to the track

Airwolf

iTrader: (2)

Jetting looks correct. If you are only seeing 800 PSI that's your problem. Your low 11.0 A/F tells us that you are running richer then needed. If you are only seeing 800 PSI all the time, you will need to lower your fuel jetting down to the 26 range!!
Remember that NX likes between 1000 and 1100 PSI. Anything lower will and does give lower HP numbers. If I was you I would get a better heater, that seems to be your problem more then anything... Get that pressure into the correct range and your HP numbers will probably be right in there.

Good luck.

n2o

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you are putting too much fuel in there. The maf is adding fuel because you are spraying before it, with a wet kit. That is if I understand you correctly. It is a wet kit right?

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

My 408 has similar results...i'll check my MAF jetting and if it looks bad off i'll tell you. My RWHP on NA is consistently in the 430 range and 590 range on n20 using a SS3600 and a 4L60E. I do run 1000 psi. I dig NX but the Dyno Tune Nitrous warmer with the adjustable thermostat is my favorite warmer.

Texas Terminator

lean it out by at least another point and get your bottle pressure up. how much timing are you running?

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

He is using a wet kit, as evidence the two different jet sizes N/F. Wets spray post MAF not pre. His MAF has nothing to do with this issue.

What is the timing at? And ditto on new transducer for bottle heater, get one from Dynotune and adjust for 1050 or whatever you like. Great heater system right there. I dont think leaning it out any will help you pick up the power without risk of other issues. I'd leave the 11:1 AFR on the 200 shot, but timing, and pressure. The pressure will lean out the afr some, but nothing like 12:1. Converter is an issue I am battling now. Once the car is shipped to CA and I drive it home to AZ, I will order and install a new Fuddle setup for Nitrous. ATI didnt even want to look into redoing the guts of this one to be good for nitrous. Oh well. GL

FastBlackTA

iTrader: (7)

Don't waste your time worrying about dyno numbers......go to the track and dial it in!

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Yep. I like this idea too, although having recently been sucked into dynoing my car, I must say its irritating to not see what the track shows. Runem.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I agree for the most part. 800psi on my car is like an empty bottle. Slightly leaner would be fine, but not much more than 11.2/ or 11.5 max, and that depends also somewhat on your timing.
Robert

slowredz

iTrader: (23)

What is optimal timing on a 200 shot?

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I think its a combo of your slightly off tune and converter. get the Af to 11.5 or so. And then dont really worry about the dyno #s.
Slowredz...there is no one size fits all optimal timing for specific size shot. It depends on many factors and may not be the same at 3000 rpm as at say 5500+.
It also depends on the cam and octane of fuel used as well as what rpm you hit the juice.

If its 93 octane and a semi normal cam that 200 shot on that 408 would probably be between 22-26 IMO.

1badA3Z

iTrader: (58)

did i read this correctly,he is spraying dual nozzles before the maf,if thats the case and he is using wet kits thats why it wont pick up like it should,dry kits go before the maf,wet kits go after the maf,thats where his fuel setup is off,some one else chime in if this is not correct,only dry kits should go b4 the maf,hope this helps

Cliff

iTrader: (19)

At what rpm's is your converter locking? I had a Coan converter that slipped from 4800 rpm's to 5800 rpm's with the 200 pills, leaving a whole whopping 5 thousand rpm's for a power band. If your converter is slipping like mine did then you need a new setup. Yank built a PE 3600 for my car and it's much better. I believe the comments made about your nitrous pressure is correct. Change these two things and I bet your power/tq come up.
Question, is your cam a nitrous cam?

SiL3NtXWS6

iTrader: (17)

That's what i read too... he said 2 nozzles before the maf

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Likely a worded error.
Robert

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

There is no absolute answer. Some folks will say 2-4 deg off NA. But that statement doesn't really mean much at all to me. Just get a tuner to help you dial in the Air Fuel you prefer.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

Your bottle pressure is low, therefore the amount of nitrous to the engine is less and you will make less power... Get that pressure up to 1000 and you will be very close to a 200rwhp gain.

SILVERZZ28

iTrader: (3)

What exhaust system are you running?

Full length?

227Hawk

iTrader: (1)

More pressure, you're not spraying enough in. Increase the pressure then see what you have. If you're still low then check your A/F and timing again.
Hawk