Dynotune dry kit on the way. Write up soon to follow!
#1
Dynotune dry kit on the way. Write up soon to follow!
Hey everyone. I just ordered my Dynotune Dry Kit, upgraded black high-output bottle warmer, full-auto warmer upgrade, 860 tire well mount, bottle mount pressure gauge, fuel pressure safety switch, nitrous filter, and dual purge kit. I must say that Dean at Dynotune did an EXCELLENT job at answering my questions and making me feel confident about my purchase. I didnt get to speak with Dean on the phone, but I did get to speak with Dan, who was also very helpful. This thread is going to double as somewhat of a write up, and also as a place for me to ask some questions as I install. However, as of now I'd like some opinions and suggestions for purge locations.
Options so far are:
Nostrils (WS6)
Cowl (By windshield)
Side Vents
Vent Area Below driving lights
I'm open to any suggestions!
Options so far are:
Nostrils (WS6)
Cowl (By windshield)
Side Vents
Vent Area Below driving lights
I'm open to any suggestions!
#2
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Great choice! Dean sold me my first dry kit.
Most questions are usually how to hook up the window switch, purge, and where to put the switches. Be sure to cover those items in your write up
Most questions are usually how to hook up the window switch, purge, and where to put the switches. Be sure to cover those items in your write up
#5
Unfortunately I wont be doing a window switch, or at least for now. Since my car is an automatic for now I plan on engaging the system manually after 3000 RPM. However, I'll be happy to be as detailed as possible on all the other things this will probably a slow thread to follow but ill try to make updates as often as possible since im juggling college and this at the same time. so far all i have done is the switch panel, which will be in the ash tray. of course the purge switch will be added as soon as it arrives in the mail. but for now heres a pic of the switch panel.
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#17
hey guys i need your help. everything is on and functional but i cant get the nitrous solenoid to pop. we've traced it down to the groud on the relay, which is interupted by the Fuel Pressure Safety Switch. when we bybassed that ground it worked just fine. im thinking either the switch is set wrong (comes at 35 psi i believe) or that maybe i put it on wrong. when i bought the kit from dynotune i opted for a fitting that adapts to the end of the ls1 fuel rail where the schrader valve is. im thinking maybe you have to remove to scrader valve? someone help! THEN you can see pics of it finished