Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I noticed that all the big time nitrous guys that use a progressive all use and recommend to me the Edelbrock controller, why is that? It doesn't look like it's anything special or even has a lot of features. Like the FJO mini seems like it would have more adjustability being laptop programmed and being able to set ur ramp however you want and all, and it's got extra features like the tps wot and window switch built into it and is a couple hundred bucks less. So i'm just wondering what the reasons are that all the big dogs are using the edelbrock over say the fjo mini or nos mini, so I can be more educated about it and justify spending the extra money on it or not when the time comes that I get the spray back on the car. I don't know a lot about the progressives, I used to run a dual stage and if I left on both kits together (300 total) the car went to the bumper, if I set the second stage out a few tenths, same thing, and if I set it out like 9 tenths of a second it kept the car down to like a 3 or 4 foot wheelie, but I lost like 2 mph, so I figure maybe the progressive will help me keep the nose down and get more power in faster than the 2 stage setup, plus this time i'm gonna be bumping her up to a 400 hit total.

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

I don't know about the Edelbrock but the new NOS launch controller seems like it has some awesome features. From what I've read it seems to be working pretty well.

Just have your daddy buy you both of them and see witch one is best LOL!

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Hahahahahahahaha, the launcher is out of "Daddy's" price range!!!!

myfast70

iTrader: (38)

The Edelbrock is pretty simple to adjust and very reliable. You can make changes while your on the line if need be and it doesn't require a laptop to program.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Put some limiters on the car and get the susp. dailed in alittle better.
Maybe even tighten the converter up a little.

Are leaving off the Tbrake or footbrake?

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I was playing with limiters for the last three months before the motor got hurt last year, couldn't get the car to hook with them on, but I didn't have a lot of adjustability in them, one hole made way too much of a difference (chain style limiters), best 60' I could muster with them on was a 1.45 leaving on everything and the car spinning pretty good, here's a video of it (that's actually the pass the motor got hurt last april, burnt a couple plugs after the 1/8th and beat up the pistons and combustion chambers on the heads pretty good and bent all the valves):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5gMcfo4s58

And here's what it did without the limiters (I backed out of it so I wouldn't tap the bumper):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ey1j68Rs034


Oh and the converter is super tight, the car is a pig on motor, I can't go better than 1.75 60's and it bogs out of the hole and it's 93 - 94 % efficient going through the traps on a 300 shot if my calculations are correct. I leave off the transbrake, it goes to 3800 - 4000 on the brake and as soon as I let go of the brake the nitrous is on and I think it flashes to around 5100 - 5300.

I have Madman's torque arm and the front mount is in the lowest hole to extend out the instant center and try and soften up the hit, the torque arm actually points down from rearend to front mount, the lca's are at a 2 to 3 degree angle down from body to rearend, the rear hals I usually keep at 7 and 5 up front, and the pinion angle is at -2. I have 3.73 gears in the rear and am running M/T ET Drags 28x10.5S.

Before the car started getting too close to goin to the bumper it was 60' consistant 1.32's. Then I took some more weight out and had added a fast 90 which picked up power and she started getting retarded with the wheelies, instead of a 3 to 4 footer that I could ride out, she started goin sky high and I started having to lift out of a lot of launches. Now with the new setup I can only imagine how bad it's gonna be if I don't do something to fix it. It's going to be a couple months before I get the spray back on cuz my girl just got laid off a couple weeks ago and I had to blow all the money I had set aside for the new kit and stand alone cell and controller on bills, but I just wanted to get a plan together so i'm ready when the time comes.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

3800-4000 is not super tight.

Sounds like you might need some double adj. rear shocks to help you get it to hook with the limiters tight. I dont have alot of exp. with slicks anymore I have been running DR for the last 3 years. I bet Madman can help you.

My limiters came with a short chain so I went to home depot and bought a few different lengths (longer) so the adjustments dont do as much. Each link is about a 1/2inch instead of an inch or more.

Whats the split on your shot? 150+250?

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

It was 150/150 before, this time I was planning on a single progressed setup, but haven't bought anything yet.

I might try and play with the limiters again, cuz I would love to leave on everything. I put a gmpp carb intake with an accufab tb on the car, so i'm planning on running a plate kit or sending the intake to Nitro Dave to have him do a set of spray bars in it, I think i'd feel a little better with the spray bar setup cuz I would know for sure that it's getting even distribution, that's what hurt me on the other setup (I was using a wet kit before the throttle body with the fast 90 and it got some bad distribution).

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

BTW, when you say longer chain, you mean each link is longer, or the entire length of chain is longer? I have the chain limiters that madman sells.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

That intake set up should kill some torque which will tighten the converter and help it wheelie a little less.
Getting someone to flow the kits is a really good idea.

I like 2 kits instead of the progressor but to each his own, they can both be made to work.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Same size chain only longer chain. (9 links)

Seems to me the DR will make the car stand up easier so if you try them be caerful.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the advice man, i'll keep all that in mind, the car is definately a lot doggier down low now with the new intake setup, but I can't tell if it's doggier down low or just that much nastier up top, cuz it really wakes up top, which it didn't do before and according to the dyno graph it actually picked up everywhere, including down low under the curve. I put the car on my buddies mustang dyno just to see where the powerband was and it picked up a lot up top, peaked at 475 horse @ 7000 rpm and held all the way till I let off @ 7500 and peaked torque around 4000 rpm at 453 ft/lbs, before it was peaking hp around 5800 - 6000 with the fast 90 and was falling off hard @ 6400 rpm which I never thought was right with as big of a cam as I have in the car and peak torque was at about 5000 rpm with the fast 90. I'll pick up a longer chain from home depot and give the limiters a try again when I get the spray back on, I never thought to try that.

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

That sucks about your ol' lady man. I know the feeling, I'm trying to get back to being debt free and I'm staying broke doing it LOL. I guess it will pay off in the long run.

Anyway, this went from progressive controllers to travel limiters.

Back on topic: So is the only reason the "Big dogs" prefer the Edelbrock because you can adjust it at the line?
I really would like to hear if the new NOS launch controller is all it's hyped up to be? Anyone use it?

thechef

iTrader: (13)

Steve Johnson probably designed the Edelbrock controller when he worked for them and everyone in the NOS world knows he knows his ****

tuff

iTrader: (15)

I would say that is one reason i own one.I also topped it off with his DP system.