Tempting Death - 125 shot on a 150K stock bottom end with H/C/I?
#1
Tempting Death - 125 shot on a 150K stock bottom end with H/C/I?
I've already beat my engine to no end with H/C/I and it's taken everything I can throw at it. This winter I'm doing a 9" and OZ700 clutch, along with 5.3 heads, so my drivetrain can definitely handle the power. I want more, of course, so I'm thinking of doing a dry kit with a max of 125 HP. I have NOT changed my rod bolts yet, so I will do that prior to spraying it. I'm going to install the Racetronics fuel pump kit from Thunder Racing and an adjustable FPR, so my fuel system should be more than capable of supplying fuel for that power level. I already read the thread on how much power my stock bottom end might take, but I'd like to see if anyone has actually tried something similar.
#2
I've already beat my engine to no end with H/C/I and it's taken everything I can throw at it. This winter I'm doing a 9" and OZ700 clutch, along with 5.3 heads, so my drivetrain can definitely handle the power. I want more, of course, so I'm thinking of doing a dry kit with a max of 125 HP. I have NOT changed my rod bolts yet, so I will do that prior to spraying it. I'm going to install the Racetronics fuel pump kit from Thunder Racing and an adjustable FPR, so my fuel system should be more than capable of supplying fuel for that power level. I already read the thread on how much power my stock bottom end might take, but I'd like to see if anyone has actually tried something similar.
#5
tough call
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Last edited by trev0006; 02-09-2009 at 11:12 PM.
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#10
A friend of mine has an 02 trans am, BONE STOCK (well he JUST added ARH headers/exhaust) 150 plate kit, ran 11.40's. ALL DAY LONG, video after video of running 11.40-11.50's. in a 4100+lb convertible. And he has put ALOT of nitrous through that bone stock car also.
#11
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It will hold up just fine with a good tune. And if you want extra insurance use a progressive controller to bring on the nitrous nice and smooth anywhere above 3000rpm. Your fuel pump will do the trick, just upgrade the injectors to atleast 42#'ers since you are running a dry shot. Or like said above you could run a wet kit and not have to upgrade the injectors. I ran a 125-175 dry shot on my car for the past 5 years on my cam only setup. I just finished up my H/C setup and will be running a 150shot on it as soon as I get my tuner to tweak the upper PE tables for my new setup.
#12
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haha a 125 and your worried...next trip out mine will hit 157k...my old setup made near 380na and 470 on nitrous..i do have arp rod bolts and an ls6 oil pump....new setup should be clloser to 600rwhp.....dont let mileage scare you....if it does blow it will give you a reason to go bigger and better...
#14
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old setup
yeah my old setup had a nos universal kit with the 150 jets it only made 90 more hp...i have a much bigger kit now along with heads and a custom cam....sorry on the confusion.....
#16
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I'm runnin a 150 wet shot on a '98 LS1 with about 150K on the clock. I'm sprayin it outta the hole too, no window switch (although it's in the works) and no nitrous tune either. I haven't sprayed it that many times but it seems to like it, except for my leaf springs, they pretty much hate life right now. I'd say your fine motorwise and like was said before if it blows it's just a good excuse to go bigger & better. jmo
#17
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Great question -- I had the exact same question before going with my N2O setup. I have a H/C/I car and was putting out 440 rwhp N/A. A very reputable LSx shop in my area did my N2O install and we agreed to go with a 100 rwhp shot for now. I love it and I wouldn't mind more, however they recommended that I start saving for a new short block if I bump it up to a 150 rwhp shot -- they are some of the best tuners in the country and were speaking from experience. That was enough for me to be content with a 100 shot for now. Eventually I'll just save up for my new setup and then it shouldn't matter as much.
One more note, if you do decide to go with a 125 shot, I would highly recommend a nice progressive controller (FJO mini, Dyno Tune, etc.). I have a FJO controller with my setup and the ramp up from 3300 rpm to 4000 rpm makes the initial hit so very smooth. With a decent tire, it actually gives me a shot at finding a bit of traction in 2nd gear!
One more note, if you do decide to go with a 125 shot, I would highly recommend a nice progressive controller (FJO mini, Dyno Tune, etc.). I have a FJO controller with my setup and the ramp up from 3300 rpm to 4000 rpm makes the initial hit so very smooth. With a decent tire, it actually gives me a shot at finding a bit of traction in 2nd gear!
#18
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FWIW, you might want to check into that FPR set-up. I'm pretty sure in order to regulate your fuel pressure at the rail you NEED to have a return line, which our car's lack. The people that use FPR's are those who have a completely done fuel system consisting of a return line. I am not 100% sure, but i believe so. Also, going dry, your going to need more than just a pump since a dry system will use the fuel from the injectors. Already being H/C/I i would assume you are probably already close at maxing out your injectors and pump. IMO a racetronix will be perfect, but add in a set of bigger fuel injectors as well. A FPR will not be necessary for this set-up either. Hope this helps!
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#19
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By no means am I recommending you do this, but...For the past few years we've sprayed our blue car to death on the dyno. With countless passes on it with some very large shots, she hasn't missed a beat yet! I think the testament to its survival has been taking the required safety precautions.
Nick
Nick
#20
i got a TR 224 cam, tea stage 2 5.3 heads a fast 90 and a cold fusion 90mm plate. i have 120k and have ran 7 bottles of 100 shot thru it. i throw some 100 octane in it to be safe. i think im going to step it up to 150.