dcam503

iTrader: (1)

hey so im planning on making a few passes friday out at pir. i have a couple questions.. my car is a 99 vette coupe with targa top.

1: how fast is too fast for my car? im not sure of the actual power output and dont want to get kicked out so im just wondering how fast i could go without a cage having a targa top?

2: what kind of cage and saftey equipment do i need to run into the 10's? how many points does the cage need to be?

3: what all do i need to run nitrous? its already got a wet plate setup, just need to know what all i need to be allowed to spray at pir?

im sure forgetting something, im hoping to dive into the 11's n/a, but have only owned the car 2 months and am running run flats so i dont expect to have much traction. thanks for your help guys.

dejatrois

http://portlandraceway.com/file/58/P..._Tech_2013.pdf

HolyShiznit

iTrader: (11)

You are going to be in trouble with those run-flats if your car makes any type of power. Good luck.

CopMagnet

If you can find some good drag wheels / tires, my opinion from what I saw and heard I'd expect somewhere in the 12s maybe low 12s when you get your driving things down pat like launch RPM, shifting, tire pressure, etc

CopMagnet

Carothers tire in Hillsburrito has cheap deals on used tires and rims. I'm hoping to score some DRs there for my stock rims.

zlicious94

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I wouldnt expect 11's on those tires unless your making around 600whp! You could always launch from 2nd gear.

DBL_TKE

1. a Targa top is still considered a hardtop vehicle with it on. Once you take it off it's categorized as a convertable. At 13.99 and quicker you need a SNELL 2005 or SFI approved helmet. with just a helmet you are OK to run down to an 11.50 and under 135mph.

2. You are required to have a 5 point roll bar at 11.49. At that point you also need 5 point SFI restraints, a single layer SFI fire jacket, an SFI bellhousing, driveshaft loop, and SFI clutch/flywheel. At 10.99 you also need an SFI transmission shield and an SFI harmonic balancer. You do not need a certified roll cage until you dip into the 9's or trap 135mph or faster. If you have a custom floor pan you need a cage at 10.99.

3. For nitrous: must use bottle(s) stamped with a minimum DOT-1800 pound rating and securely mounted. If the bottle is located is drivers compartment (trunk counts as drivers compartment unless separated with metal firewall) then the bottle must be fitted with a pressure relief valve and the blow down tube vented outside of the vehicle.

DBL_TKE

I just noticed in your other thread that you mentioned that you have headers and are straight piped. You need to have mufflers of some sort to run at PIR. Doesn't matter if they're mufflers, bullets, resonators, cats, whatever, you just have to have something.

dcam503

iTrader: (1)

thanks guys, im waiting to get some drag radials till i put some money back in savings from the car purchase. i dont think im gonna hit 11's for a while and dont expect to have the best traction on the run flats but it will be fun to make some passes and get to know the car better. i also have prob over 300lbs of subs/amps over the rear tires too so maybe that will help. i do have gutted mufflers on, still pretty raspy but they will do.

im gonna get a bottle and blow down tube and purge kit here soon but dr's will be first. i just found out today that i work late the next two fridays but i should be able to get there by 830.

DBL_TKE

Just remember that tech inspection closes at 9pm and we typically stop racing around 10-10:30pm.

dcam503

iTrader: (1)

word, i wasnt sure what time tech stopped. thnx

CopMagnet

Dave. Good luck out there. I'm shut in for the weekend. Have 5 finals next week. If it were me and there's a sprinkle, I wouldn't run at all. Just my opinion.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I have a spare set of drag radials on 8.5" thin spokes for sale, they will help.
Hoosier 245/45/17 with about 25 runs on them.

BTW...they will catch you immediatly if you run below 11.49.......

Is this a stick or an auto? Other details?

Ron

dcam503

iTrader: (1)

its a stick. the last owner claimed he didnt remember what he had done to the engine, considering he owned a few ferraris and lambos and astons as well, im thinking he just dropped it at the shop and said make it more powerful and throw some crawfish up in there. he said he his goal was mid 11's na and hi 10's on juice. i got a little more info out of him the other day and he said he only put about 8k into tge engine build. he said it has ls6 heads ported to the max, i know, i lol'd too.. ls6 intake ported, pistons to support spray, custom grind solid cam, lt's into o/r h, ported 80tb?, nos wet plate system, custom dynomatic tune. now he did show me a dyno sheet showing around 550rwhp on the corrected tune, no clue what the tq numbers were. im assuming that was the spray dyno sheet, if it was actually the dyno from this car.. anyways, im guessing from my exp that it is putting down around 450rwhp na, the spray is a 100 shot for now, im waiting for 150,200,250 shot nozzles to get here.

it will be my first time at the strip in this car and my first manual pass and only my 3rd pass ever.. im not planning on spraying until i get better tires and dont plan on being super fast my first few times so any pointers would be great.

zlicious94

iTrader: (1)

Nice! Sounds like it should move out pretty well! When you gonna run it?

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I might wander down tonight, but not with my car. It's sadly in storage.

I was afraid you would say stick.....I'll tell you they are difficult at the drags.
The clutch needs upgraded for any serious drag racing. So does the differential, it will break with drag radials. Unless it has the good output shafts in it.
So, that said, probably best to just make some passes and learn the car. Maybe even leave the traction control on. I've seen couple of folks with Vettes have them get away from them in 2nd gear and hit the wall, at PIR. No kidding.

FWIW, I bet it's not a solid cam. No need for one, and very unusual in an LS1. You are probably right, more money than brains and just dropped it off and wrote the check when he picked it up. And yes, that dyno sheet had to be on the spray.

If you can get the power down, and run it full out through the gears, it could go 127 or so. You won't need to worry about the 11's.

I would just ease it out of the hole and get after it once moving. If it blows te tires off, lift! If it has competition mode (requires active handling) I would do that. It turns traction control off but leaves the active handling on.

Whatever, just relax, take your time and have fun!

There are a couple of other guys who come down with manual C5's, nice guys. They can give you some pointers. I think both have black FRC cars.

Ron

dcam503

iTrader: (1)

i just got off, wont make it tonight, next week i will try but im pretty sure i will be off earlier

yeah i forgot, 383 gears with the entire rearend and clutch upgraded to handle way more power. also a totally new valvetrain . the rockers/lifters are pretty loud and i emailed a guy on digvet who had his vette built at the same shop and they did a solid cam with his as well.. i will dig up that email, he said our builds sounded similar but he did afr225's and some other intake.. i def dont think its a solid tho, i have been researching them alot lately and like you said, theres no point. i just wonder tho..

the 3 times i did go wot i lost all traction in 2nd-4th with the active handling on. if i floor it in any gear under 5th from above a 3k rpm it looses traction bad. i think im gonna pick up a set of c5 rear rims and throw some mickeys or hoosiers on there and wait till these run flats wear down and then get dr's or something stickier but ok in rain..

i wont mind even if he only did a head port and light cam, either way im still really happy with the purchase.im not trying to front it as more than it is or anything like that.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

You didn't miss anything, it rained. I was there for an hour, and then it rained pretty good so I left.
Hey, just hollar when you get out there.
Sounds like the car was built right. FWIW, the valvetrains make noise when you put much of a cam in them. Sound like solids.
I look forward to meeting you.
What color is it?

Ron

dcam503

iTrader: (1)

its white, check out my new guy thread, theres some pics.

yeah, we need to get a group drag night together soon.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I'm game. Do our own LS fest.

Are those 19's or 20's on the back of your car?