The H/C decision is made!! Finally...
03-16-2005, 01:01 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by NataSS Inc
And a 12 bolt.
03-16-2005, 01:09 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by sardog46
Those flow pretty goodl. Just to put it in pespective my heads flow bout 25-30cfm more all the way 650 lift. Why don't you get a set of ls6 heads, and then just have the weld the chambers to whatever sive you want. The ls6 heads will way ouflow and perform the 5.3's. IMO
Originally Posted by Rottluver
UGH!!!!! Don't remind me.............another 2-3 grand that I will have to toss down the tubes......
03-16-2005, 01:23 PM
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The 12-bolt and 9-inch rears are actually more similar than they are different. The major difference between the two is the design of the housings. The 12-bolt integral design features a carrier case and pinion support that are part of the rearend housing, while the 9-inch employs a drop-out third member that takes advantage of an independent carrier case and pinion support that bolts into the rearend housing.
The typical 9-inch rearend weighs in around 177 pounds (without brakes). A benefit of this design is that its third member can be easily accessed, and the factory components are capable of withstanding even more torque with 31-spline axles.
Another advantage to the 9-inch is that the axles are easier to install and remove. Ford designed the factory 28- and 31-spline axles to be removable by yanking four bolts per axle flange, which allows the axle to slide out. The axles have pressed-on bearings and retainer plates that bolt to the housing flanges. There are no C-clips inside the rearend holding them in place like on a 12-bolt.
The plus here for the 9-inch is that if you break an axle inside the housing, the axle retainer will keep the axle in place. On a 12-bolt, breaking an axle means it slides right out of the housing, causing massive sheetmetal damage along the way. You can convert a 12-bolt to the 9-inch style of axle retention, but it requires a C-clip eliminator kit and modifications to the housing.
9 inch
The typical 9-inch rearend weighs in around 177 pounds (without brakes). A benefit of this design is that its third member can be easily accessed, and the factory components are capable of withstanding even more torque with 31-spline axles.
Another advantage to the 9-inch is that the axles are easier to install and remove. Ford designed the factory 28- and 31-spline axles to be removable by yanking four bolts per axle flange, which allows the axle to slide out. The axles have pressed-on bearings and retainer plates that bolt to the housing flanges. There are no C-clips inside the rearend holding them in place like on a 12-bolt.
The plus here for the 9-inch is that if you break an axle inside the housing, the axle retainer will keep the axle in place. On a 12-bolt, breaking an axle means it slides right out of the housing, causing massive sheetmetal damage along the way. You can convert a 12-bolt to the 9-inch style of axle retention, but it requires a C-clip eliminator kit and modifications to the housing.
9 inch
03-16-2005, 01:29 PM
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9+ race case, an anodized-aluminum pinion support, a forged yoke, a Detroit locker carrier unit, and a set of 4.11 gears.
BULLET PROOF PERIOD.
BULLET PROOF PERIOD.
03-16-2005, 01:33 PM
#26
My 12 bolt has the c-clip eliminator kit, 33 spline axles, with the Eaton HD posi and 4.11s. If my posi blows, I'll be switching to the new 12 bolt Detroit Locker that just came out.
Don't forget a new clutch and Groo'd tranny, and a stronger driveshaft...
This **** adds up quick, don't it?
Don't forget a new clutch and Groo'd tranny, and a stronger driveshaft...
This **** adds up quick, don't it?
03-16-2005, 01:38 PM
#27
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Dang Nick, that's purdy! I want one....oh yeah, I already got one JUST like that.
Good write up BTW.
The other main difference Darrin is the 9" is a wee bit stronger than a 12 bolt. Both internally because the gears are larger, and externally because the axle housing design is stronger because of the solid rear piece. That's why you see guys buying the TA girdles for their 10 & 12 bolts. It firms up that section so the carrier doesn't walk around under power.
And a 9" does require a little more tweaking to make fit. Neither is real bad tho.
Good write up BTW.
The other main difference Darrin is the 9" is a wee bit stronger than a 12 bolt. Both internally because the gears are larger, and externally because the axle housing design is stronger because of the solid rear piece. That's why you see guys buying the TA girdles for their 10 & 12 bolts. It firms up that section so the carrier doesn't walk around under power.
And a 9" does require a little more tweaking to make fit. Neither is real bad tho.
03-16-2005, 02:14 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by WS6freak
Yeah but it all depends what you want to do with the car... I think the TEAs are a *very* good bang for the buck, even more so for me, I'm not a 1/4 mile guy. Will use the car as a daily driver only.
No joke... when the time comes I'll prob get a 9 inch.
No joke... when the time comes I'll prob get a 9 inch.
Good call on the nine inch, Many more ratios avail for it. Plus like you said bullet proof, mines been through hell.
03-16-2005, 02:17 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Dang Nick, that's purdy! I want one....oh yeah, I already got one JUST like that.
Good write up BTW.
The other main difference Darrin is the 9" is a wee bit stronger than a 12 bolt. Both internally because the gears are larger, and externally because the axle housing design is stronger because of the solid rear piece. That's why you see guys buying the TA girdles for their 10 & 12 bolts. It firms up that section so the carrier doesn't walk around under power.
And a 9" does require a little more tweaking to make fit. Neither is real bad tho.
Good write up BTW.
The other main difference Darrin is the 9" is a wee bit stronger than a 12 bolt. Both internally because the gears are larger, and externally because the axle housing design is stronger because of the solid rear piece. That's why you see guys buying the TA girdles for their 10 & 12 bolts. It firms up that section so the carrier doesn't walk around under power.
And a 9" does require a little more tweaking to make fit. Neither is real bad tho.
03-16-2005, 02:21 PM
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Wow, hell of a write up, thanks.
I had heard a rumor that the 9 inch sucks up a few more horsepower then a 12 bolt....is that true?
On a completely different subject, how do you like Mill Creek? I had a friend that lived there years ago and I absolutely loved it when I visited.......it is one of the places I am contemplating buying in.
I had heard a rumor that the 9 inch sucks up a few more horsepower then a 12 bolt....is that true?
On a completely different subject, how do you like Mill Creek? I had a friend that lived there years ago and I absolutely loved it when I visited.......it is one of the places I am contemplating buying in.
03-16-2005, 02:24 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Rottluver
Wow, hell of a write up, thanks.
I had heard a rumor that the 9 inch sucks up a few more horsepower then a 12 bolt....is that true?
On a completely different subject, how do you like Mill Creek? I had a friend that lived there years ago and I absolutely loved it when I visited.......it is one of the places I am contemplating buying in.
I had heard a rumor that the 9 inch sucks up a few more horsepower then a 12 bolt....is that true?
On a completely different subject, how do you like Mill Creek? I had a friend that lived there years ago and I absolutely loved it when I visited.......it is one of the places I am contemplating buying in.
03-16-2005, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by sardog46
Yhea it eats a little more power, but Hp numbers are just that numbers.
03-16-2005, 02:37 PM
#33
Originally Posted by Rottluver
VERY VERY true, I was just curious if it was true and WHY?? I am more concerned with track times then dyno #'s........hell, they said my 315's on 11" rims ate up 4-5 rwhp.....like I frickin care.
03-16-2005, 04:15 PM
#34
You guys are talking rear ends here that are more bulletproof than 99% of us need.
I understand folks have adapted the Frod 8.8 into a F-body app. That's gonna be my rear end of choice. My mustang's rear is stupid strong for anythign that any of my cars will need, and the parts are extremely reasonably priced.
Its almost as if we need any rear end OTHER than the one these cars come with.
I understand folks have adapted the Frod 8.8 into a F-body app. That's gonna be my rear end of choice. My mustang's rear is stupid strong for anythign that any of my cars will need, and the parts are extremely reasonably priced.
Its almost as if we need any rear end OTHER than the one these cars come with.
03-16-2005, 09:23 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by Rottluver
On a completely different subject, how do you like Mill Creek? I had a friend that lived there years ago and I absolutely loved it when I visited.......it is one of the places I am contemplating buying in.
I would say nice place to live, *horrible* place to have a business. I'm a small business owner here and it just plain sucks. The sign code sucks, the people that vote for those codes suck, unless you're a huge company you get nothing. Double standards. While people like the Central Market guys can get away with breaking all sign codes known to man, small guys like me (and there are not many of us left here) struggle with this BS...
Sorry for the rant, I just get like this everytime I think about it.
03-17-2005, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
Bigger and heavier parts... more parasitic loss. That's why the 10 bolt will give you the best dyno numbers, but with the small and fragile parts, it's shrapnel waiting to happen.
As for the 10 bolt..........I know, I know........sooner, rather then later. 
Originally Posted by Visceral
You guys are talking rear ends here that are more bulletproof than 99% of us need.
I understand folks have adapted the Frod 8.8 into a F-body app. That's gonna be my rear end of choice. My mustang's rear is stupid strong for anythign that any of my cars will need, and the parts are extremely reasonably priced.
Its almost as if we need any rear end OTHER than the one these cars come with.
I understand folks have adapted the Frod 8.8 into a F-body app. That's gonna be my rear end of choice. My mustang's rear is stupid strong for anythign that any of my cars will need, and the parts are extremely reasonably priced.
Its almost as if we need any rear end OTHER than the one these cars come with.
Originally Posted by WS6freak
Mill Creek is nice to live and it is considered "pretty" for a reason - the rules are very strict.
I would say nice place to live, *horrible* place to have a business. I'm a small business owner here and it just plain sucks. The sign code sucks, the people that vote for those codes suck, unless you're a huge company you get nothing. Double standards. While people like the Central Market guys can get away with breaking all sign codes known to man, small guys like me (and there are not many of us left here) struggle with this BS...
Sorry for the rant, I just get like this everytime I think about it.
I would say nice place to live, *horrible* place to have a business. I'm a small business owner here and it just plain sucks. The sign code sucks, the people that vote for those codes suck, unless you're a huge company you get nothing. Double standards. While people like the Central Market guys can get away with breaking all sign codes known to man, small guys like me (and there are not many of us left here) struggle with this BS...
Sorry for the rant, I just get like this everytime I think about it.
My folks live in Mukilteo and I want to be close to them (less then 60 minutes) when I finaly do pick a place...........they are like my best friends and we have a lotta fun together. Plus, they are looking at buying, repairing and selling houses for their "retirement" and want me to be a part of the operation.
They are sooooooo good to me.
03-17-2005, 06:53 PM
#38
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I used to live in Huntington Beach, CA and Mill Creek *sucks* compared to that place. That stretch from HB to New Port Beach must be one of the coolest, most nice looking places ever. Ahhhhh I miss the sun, the gilrs, everything.... the atmosphere... Seems like people are kinda stiff up here, maybe it's just the weather. Don't get me wrong, I love the clean air here and a lot of other things. It's just not fair to compare the two places anyway...
03-17-2005, 07:05 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by Rottluver
My folks live in Mukilteo and I want to be close to them (less then 60 minutes) when I finaly do pick a place...........they are like my best friends and we have a lotta fun together. Plus, they are looking at buying, repairing and selling houses for their "retirement" and want me to be a part of the operation. They are sooooooo good to me.
They are sooooooo good to me.
03-18-2005, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by WS6freak
I used to live in Huntington Beach, CA and Mill Creek *sucks* compared to that place. That stretch from HB to New Port Beach must be one of the coolest, most nice looking places ever. Ahhhhh I miss the sun, the gilrs, everything.... the atmosphere... Seems like people are kinda stiff up here, maybe it's just the weather. Don't get me wrong, I love the clean air here and a lot of other things. It's just not fair to compare the two places anyway...
I do like the Newport/Huntington area, don't get me wrong, but when you need to sell a few dozen kidneys to be able to afford a dump of a house.....somehow it just loses something.
Originally Posted by burbman
Rott, I live in North Bend, which is exactly an hour from the in-laws place (at the speed limit, no less) which happens to be about three blocks from your parents. There is no emmissions testing in my zip code, and I am only about half an hour from Bellevue or Downtown Seattle. Prices have been going a little crazy in my neighborhood lately, but probably nothing compared to what you are used to in Cali.
) And when the AVERAGE cost of a house in L.A. County is almost $600k........ANYTHING looks better.