366 cu in vs 370
09-04-2006, 01:49 PM
#1
366 cu in vs 370 Can someone explain the difference between the two? IS it just a few cu inches or is the 366 potentialy more powerful? (and I'm not sure how).
My bottom end had a bad cylinder and I'm looking at having a short block built. I want it to be as bullet proof as I can get in a certain price range. 4k for a 408 isnt an option for me. I know its onlyt 1k more but that 1k will need to go elswhere on the car. Maybe a clutch or towards a rear or even some used afr's if my heads arent good enough.
SO its the Cartek 366 that I'm looking at for $3100. I'm very open to suggestions. My budget is 3k for the sb. I know I can get a 370 from hpe or lme or tsp for 3k. The 366 is ls2 based, dont know about the 370 I'm guessing ls1?
My bottom end had a bad cylinder and I'm looking at having a short block built. I want it to be as bullet proof as I can get in a certain price range. 4k for a 408 isnt an option for me. I know its onlyt 1k more but that 1k will need to go elswhere on the car. Maybe a clutch or towards a rear or even some used afr's if my heads arent good enough.
SO its the Cartek 366 that I'm looking at for $3100. I'm very open to suggestions. My budget is 3k for the sb. I know I can get a 370 from hpe or lme or tsp for 3k. The 366 is ls2 based, dont know about the 370 I'm guessing ls1?
09-04-2006, 06:23 PM
#4
You can't get a 408 for 4k?
Anything less I'd just do a Forged Ls1 setup with stock cubes for the 2700 or 2300 with core or whatever. Then put a bigger cam in it (although I know how you are against that)
But that is just me. You have the N2O kit so anytime you want more power and have the tires to handle it you have it on demand. But I degress and am not answering your question. If I had to choose between a 366 and a 370 I'd do the cheaper one. But then again unless I was running 12+ pounds of boost I wouldn't run an iron block.
Anything less I'd just do a Forged Ls1 setup with stock cubes for the 2700 or 2300 with core or whatever. Then put a bigger cam in it (although I know how you are against that)
But that is just me. You have the N2O kit so anytime you want more power and have the tires to handle it you have it on demand. But I degress and am not answering your question. If I had to choose between a 366 and a 370 I'd do the cheaper one. But then again unless I was running 12+ pounds of boost I wouldn't run an iron block.
09-04-2006, 06:46 PM
#5
Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
You can't get a 408 for 4k?
Anything less I'd just do a Forged Ls1 setup with stock cubes for the 2700 or 2300 with core or whatever. Then put a bigger cam in it (although I know how you are against that)
But that is just me. You have the N2O kit so anytime you want more power and have the tires to handle it you have it on demand. But I degress and am not answering your question. If I had to choose between a 366 and a 370 I'd do the cheaper one. But then again unless I was running 12+ pounds of boost I wouldn't run an iron block.
Anything less I'd just do a Forged Ls1 setup with stock cubes for the 2700 or 2300 with core or whatever. Then put a bigger cam in it (although I know how you are against that)
But that is just me. You have the N2O kit so anytime you want more power and have the tires to handle it you have it on demand. But I degress and am not answering your question. If I had to choose between a 366 and a 370 I'd do the cheaper one. But then again unless I was running 12+ pounds of boost I wouldn't run an iron block.
Trying to figure out what my options are and where the money is in the build. I thought Cartek had a good rep but I've seen a few threads that suggest otherwise.
You know how it is Bob. I want a bullet proof nitrous friendly stroked beasty.
09-04-2006, 09:21 PM
#7
I think Cartek is great if you have the moola, if you aren't spending some G's then I wouldn't expect alot of help. Maybe when I've dealt with them the guy was having a bad day or something.... Speed demon I believe had 346's forged for like 2400 or something recently with core. I'm sure if you called TSP you could get something relatively close to that as well. I know its only 60 pounds but unless your going to go the 300 shot like Robert is talking about I'd stick with the Aluminum block. The 370 I believe is an iron block configuration. Not bad necessarily but one of the things I like about the camaro is the block (it has a cool factor....) now you get a 408 the positives start outweighing the negatives. JMHO like you really care 
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09-04-2006, 09:35 PM
#8
Well the cartek xseries 366 is 3100 plus core. Its ls2 based so I'll loose in that deal by the time I pay for the cores I could have had a 408. HPE offers a 408 for 3999 as well as SDPC for a few dollars more. So I know I can get with a real nice 370 for 3k. A little xtra on pistons and rings and a stock crank and I'm fairly solid. Stock cranks are rated to what 800-900 hp? I could spray a 250 shot (the limit of my system) and be safe. I'll still need to get my heads re-worked and a 90/90 would be nice as well and that clutch might need replacing while its off. Plus I need to pay Tom. I dont have room for a clutch here, no way I can do an engine swap. Not to mention the 9" or Dana I'll be needing. You know I care Bobbi 
I thought of a stroker combo short of a 408 but that doesnt make sense money wise. The damn crank cost money
I thought of a stroker combo short of a 408 but that doesnt make sense money wise. The damn crank cost money
09-05-2006, 11:20 AM
#10
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What do you mean by a bad cylinder? What happened? Might want to consider selling your shortblock and getting a 402 LS2. Dave @ Redline Motorsports can send you all the good to make a bullet proof short block for ~$3K shipped. I bet you could have them assemble it for you for ~$4K or less shipped with no core charge. I know how that little extra money can be though...
09-05-2006, 12:12 PM
#12
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I doubt you could tell the the dif between a 366 & a 370. Assuming they had a similar bore & stroke that is. Now a 402 will have a bunch more tq than a 366 or 370, but it will rpm lower too. Which usually = lower hp. It's a long-standing debate over which is faster.
The nitrous cars I see perform well tend to be smaller cube, mid-hi compression spinners. Boost seems to like cubic inches better. (again, there are a lot of compelling arguments for both sides, so it's kinda do whatever you want / prefer....just make sure you spend the $ to do it right the first time)
For boost or NO2 you will want a forged bottom end, LQ9 heads (thicker decks), good bearings & gaskets, and ARP studs everyewhere!
The nitrous cars I see perform well tend to be smaller cube, mid-hi compression spinners. Boost seems to like cubic inches better. (again, there are a lot of compelling arguments for both sides, so it's kinda do whatever you want / prefer....just make sure you spend the $ to do it right the first time)
For boost or NO2 you will want a forged bottom end, LQ9 heads (thicker decks), good bearings & gaskets, and ARP studs everyewhere!
09-05-2006, 12:22 PM
#13
Thx for the info WA, any thoughts on Patriot lq9 heads? Looks like for money purposes I'll be using a stock crank on the safest bore. Motor needs to last for ever now. I'd like to use crower rods but I'm not sure on the sizing and all that stuff.
09-05-2006, 01:42 PM
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I bought a crate short block from Scoggin Dickey. After I crunched the numbers, it was pretty close to the same amount of building my old block (with a new crank, and selling my old motor) And this way I have an iron block (no sleeves) if I want to go nuts on boost down the road.
As for the Patriot LQ9 heads I have no info. They have had their issues. I bought some GM heads off eBay & had them gone thru. Ported, polished, bigger valves, Pat Gold Springs & Comp Pro Mag rockers for about $2250. For the $, I couldn't find a better setup.
Crower Rods have a good rep, as do many others. I have Callies. Stay away from Eagle rods. I understand they use cheap metal now. But go with H beams.
As for the Patriot LQ9 heads I have no info. They have had their issues. I bought some GM heads off eBay & had them gone thru. Ported, polished, bigger valves, Pat Gold Springs & Comp Pro Mag rockers for about $2250. For the $, I couldn't find a better setup.
Crower Rods have a good rep, as do many others. I have Callies. Stay away from Eagle rods. I understand they use cheap metal now. But go with H beams.
09-05-2006, 03:04 PM
#17
Just got off the phone with Brian at LME. Going with their forged 347. It just makes the most sense with my budget. They use Callies rods and Wiseco pistons flat tops with -2cc valve reliefs, childs +albert duramoly rings ARP's all around.
Wish I could go with the 402 but dont have the money. I road race a lot so the iron block wouldnt be helping my front end push. I could have gone 370 iron for more displacement and power but Bobby talked me out of it
Wish I could go with the 402 but dont have the money. I road race a lot so the iron block wouldnt be helping my front end push. I could have gone 370 iron for more displacement and power but Bobby talked me out of it
09-05-2006, 03:09 PM
#18
LOL don't blame me, but yes I think for what you want you made a good choice for your budget. The 370 would be a good choice in different circumstances. Honestly you can't go wrong either way but I just like having an aluminum block in NA applications and the amount of nitrous your talking about you still are NA for the most part IMHO
09-05-2006, 03:16 PM
#19
Well I'm gonna increase to a 200 shot with the new setup. Brian says 7000rpms no problem and a 300 shot if I want, just to let him know so he can do the rings accordingly.
I was your fault Bobby- You made sense!! Brian agreed with you as well. I told him that I road race and he was like no you dont want the iron then. He likes my combo and recommends keeping the heads. He pointed out I made good power before it got sick so no real need for a change.
But with the valves reliefs I can do something different dont ya think
I was your fault Bobby- You made sense!! Brian agreed with you as well. I told him that I road race and he was like no you dont want the iron then. He likes my combo and recommends keeping the heads. He pointed out I made good power before it got sick so no real need for a change.
But with the valves reliefs I can do something different dont ya think