Darkening fading primer?
#1
Darkening fading primer?
Is there anything good to put on epoxy primer to return it to the "fresh" darl black look?
Maybe some lemon oil or something of the sort? WD40? It will be stripped the next time the car is painted so as long as it doesn't cause peeling paint sticking to it is not a concern.
Maybe some lemon oil or something of the sort? WD40? It will be stripped the next time the car is painted so as long as it doesn't cause peeling paint sticking to it is not a concern.
#7
Ummmm wait a minute!!!! I paint for a living and I would never ever put any kind of products on my car like that regardless of whether it's gonna be stripped later on or not!!! Your asking for future problems. You might not have any but it's just not something that I would wanna take a chance on if you plan on having this car for many years to come. The reason the primer is fading like that is because primer doesn't have any UV light protection in it so when left out in the sun for even the shortest of time it will turn dull looking and begin to fade and it can even start to rust if left out in the elements for extended periods of time so beware!!! Hope this helps!!!
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#9
Ummmm wait a minute!!!! I paint for a living and I would never ever put any kind of products on my car like that regardless of whether it's gonna be stripped later on or not!!! Your asking for future problems. You might not have any but it's just not something that I would wanna take a chance on if you plan on having this car for many years to come. The reason the primer is fading like that is because primer doesn't have any UV light protection in it so when left out in the sun for even the shortest of time it will turn dull looking and begin to fade and it can even start to rust if left out in the elements for extended periods of time so beware!!! Hope this helps!!!
Fisheyes are awesome with a ton of orange peel over the top and runs on the side and its a custom show car. Just kidding.
#13
Why are you taking it back down to bare metal? I find that all too often people strip their whole car down when the dont need to and then dont properly seal it and prep it. Are you planning on doing a complete body off paint job?
#14
Staging Lane
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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I would avoid using anything with silicone in it such as armor all. If you end up not stripping it that stuff is a lot of work to completely get off and any left when you go to paint will cause tons of problems. Pledge? That would have been funny if that worked!
#17
The car has the factory paint (copper), a shitty repaint from previous owner (different copper), repairs from 2 minor accidents, the repaint I paid for 6 years ago, then the hood trunk and roof had clearcoat failure and peeled...it was starting to rust so I sanded it down and had a friend spray it with PPG epoxy primer for $200 to seal everything up. It just so happened that it looked really nice that way...until it faded to a gray color.
The car has too many layers of paint/filler/epoxy primer for me to want it to be painted over again. Plus the factory lead filler at the body lines of the roof/rear quarters is **** and needs to be removed completely and welded....cracked the fresh paint within several months of the last repaint. The SS hood and front driver fender are both going to need replacing as they are still warped from the last accident.
The last paint job was a $1600 deal that included a color change with jamming, LOTS of welded in panels for rust repair, and it looked great for over 6 years before the cheap thin clear peeled. But for the price and the work that was done I couldn't complain...it was all I could afford at the time and the metal work alone would have cost me that anywhere else. The painter was good...no orange peel, runs, etc but the shop used cheap OMNI brand junk. If I had known better then I would have offered to provide them with better materials.
I would like the next trip through the body shop to be better, and I want the car taken down to metal or at least down enough I know for sure there are no surprises under it.
The car has too many layers of paint/filler/epoxy primer for me to want it to be painted over again. Plus the factory lead filler at the body lines of the roof/rear quarters is **** and needs to be removed completely and welded....cracked the fresh paint within several months of the last repaint. The SS hood and front driver fender are both going to need replacing as they are still warped from the last accident.
The last paint job was a $1600 deal that included a color change with jamming, LOTS of welded in panels for rust repair, and it looked great for over 6 years before the cheap thin clear peeled. But for the price and the work that was done I couldn't complain...it was all I could afford at the time and the metal work alone would have cost me that anywhere else. The painter was good...no orange peel, runs, etc but the shop used cheap OMNI brand junk. If I had known better then I would have offered to provide them with better materials.
I would like the next trip through the body shop to be better, and I want the car taken down to metal or at least down enough I know for sure there are no surprises under it.