Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

I'm planning to two-tone my Pewter Firebird with black on the bottom half. (I know the two-tone isn't popular on this site [because it isn't factory maybe?] but it's what I'm doing.) So some people I talk with say to use a green scotch brite pad to scuff the clear and some say to wet sand with 1000. I was planning on sanding, but what's the deal with the green scratch pad? Isn't that just a bit too course? Obviously I don't want to gouge the surface and force the use of a filler primer or glazing.

On a side note, anyone have any experience with the Duplicolor "pour and spray" paints? Would be nice to avoid the added cost of hardeners and reducers but I don't want smeared **** on my car either! lol Thanks guys.

Blackhawk777

Well the duplicolor is exactly that. Smeared ****. I'd strongly advise you to stay away from it. If you are looking for a good cheaper paint, look into the summit line. As far as prep, sanding would be the best way to go.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

There's a paint supply shop here that has some good paints. I'm just curious about that Duplicolor stuff because of the cost savings. What makes it so bad?

HAte

no no no, stay away from the duplicolor ready to spray, its single stage paint pretty much enamel, if your going to do it, do it right. black is the cheapest color to spray base clear, and you can get a good quality clear for 110-120 a kit (kit = clear and hardener) and you can get your paint already reduced (ready to spray)


you can sand with 1000 or you can use grey scuff pad wet or even red scuff pad, with a clear sealer over top of that, then apply base, then two or three if you'd like coats of clear

and a reason why i myself wouldnt like a two tone on a bird or t/a is because some cars you just cant two tone, or very very hard to pull off. it sounds like your just shootin it 50-50 so chances are....ehhhhhhh but we'll be waitin for the after pics

67goatman455

iTrader: (14)

the duplicolor ready to spray looks just as if you would rattle can a car. its that bad. dont believe me? look at Horsepower TV's (muscle car show i believe) mustang they did recently. they painted it blue and even on TV from a distance it was obvious it looked like hammered dog ****. /rant lol

now on to your two-tone. are you going to be spraying the pewter and the black? or just spray the black then clear everything? a gray scotchbrite and/or 400 grit sand paper is as rough as you want to go on silvers because the metallic sinks into every little scratch and it will be "grainy".

if your doing just the black then clearing 320 and a red scotchbrite will be sufficient. also a last note is that "you get what you pay for" on your paint products. At the least use du-pont/nason quality products

slow93z

if you decide what paint system your going to go with then that will determine what the prep will be, there is a not a certain way to prep something for all paint systems. if you decide the system i might be able to help you more.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

I wasn't set on a specific brand of paint. The local O'Reilys sells Nason but I've only heard bad about it. I'll only be spraying black and clear over the factory pewter and clear.

slow93z

well each company has a different way to prep a vehicle. the parts where your just clearing over you could probably use the paint makers recommended blend prep that they offer. i like ppg and sikkens. but nason will work just fine if your prep follows the makers guidelines.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

OK so if Nason IS an OK paint and I can get it discounted, what would that brand's prep method be? I you guys on here can vouch for Nason, it means more than the O'Reilly guy's opinion.

slow93z

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...uct/nason.html

they say to finish with 400 wet or dry using their basecoat system but seems a litttle course to me. iv never put color over anything less then 600 or with out using a sealer. you should be able to find out any info you want on the link above.

neverenuff#1

I would grey or red scotch brite the car wet with some sanding paste. If you do sand with paper be sure you go back and scotch brite all the dges and places the paper want get to. I personally would go with ppg base deltron 2000 and some dcu 2042 clear, after all you job will only look as good as the quality of the materials used will allow!

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

Well 400 grit seems a bit course to me. I don't need sanding scratches to show through. I think I'll exorcise a little judgement and use 800 grit wet and scotchbrite the nooks and crannies. Oh and FYI I'll damn sure be doing the door jambs! lol Oh and I already ordered the 3M plastic painters tape for the edges.

HAte

400 is fine to use with putting a clear sealer down first

67goatman455

iTrader: (14)

400 grit is normal. i used 600 grit to prep a car and was regretting it. i can only imagine 800.



here is a car i used Nason on. I painted the front lip(angle is weird, it matches in person) fog light covers, and side skirts. everything came out really well.

what are you talking about? a clear sealer? sealer is used to give an even ground coat for your base, and seal up any where you might have broken through the clear/base/primer etc...

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean? you can base over as high as 1000 grit. Unless you mean you started with 600 only on primer? 320 or 400 on primer, and 600 over the 400, and you can even 800 over that for black cars. For non primer, 600 grit is perfect for base. Like stated before, use sandpaper AND grey scotch brite pad around the edges and in the crevices.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

That's just it, I'm spraying black so I'll go cautious and use 800. It may take a bit longer but I really don't want sanding marks in the black. By a "clear sealer" I think he means spraying the sanded factory clear surface with fresh clear coat before spraying my new base coat. I'm not sure that that's absolutely needed since I'm sanding the panel first.