BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Ok, so this year my car will be getting repainted. I'm about to start getting lots of overtime at work & will have the funds for it to get done. I'm lookin into using the Summit Racing brand paint. I saw one member on here use it with great results on his race car. Mine is just a daily driver, so a show quality job isnt in store for it. Just something nice & thats better than my current fading & clear coat peeling paint or a Macco job, LOL.

Let me know if I'm forgetting something paint related. I know I'm leaving out the sandpaper & what not. Right now I just wanna make sure I have all the correct paint/primer/clear figured out.

Primer:
(1) gallon 2kHS primer
color: flat gray

Paint kit:
(1) gallon Urethane paint
(1) quart Urethane activator
(1) quart Urethane reducer

Clear Coat:
(1) gallon High Solids single stage clear
(1) quart Urethane activator
(1) quart Urethane reducer

I'm guessing the Medium is what would be best to go with as far as temp. ranges & the speed in which it cures? Also factoring in general tamps in this area during spring/early summer months.

yodas little brother

iTrader: (2)

i used that stuff when i painted the grey camaro for gmhtp and i would say its a bunch of junk the color is a nightmare and the clear you have to mix it just about 4.1.4 just to get it to lay down and then it dosent buff worth a ****.i dont know what they charge for the stuff but i would look in another direction.and dont forget your sealer

LSwonMatt

yea i would def not recommend going this type of paint from summit if you wanted to stay on a budget i would def recommend going to your local auto body ppg paint store and use the there line of shop line products.. ive worked in a body shop for many years and there products are good for dd cars.. just my opinion this is what i would get for a paint job for myself if i was staying on a budget like i am now with my 99 SS im redoing

Primer- JP202 W/ JH30x hardener mixes 4:1:1 or if u need a high build primer just mix it 4:1:1/2 ( always remember the second number in any mixing ratio on a 3 part is always the hardener unless otherwise noted) mixes with JR50x reducer

Base- JB base coat on solid colors if your going with a metallic i would def recommend going with JBP but on an all over it really wouldent matter when shooting metallics i think the JBP lays better that JB.. both mix 1:1 just like most all base coats do shop line uses a JR50x reducer

Clear is really your choice the DCU2021 is prob the best for a show car finish but shopline has a very nice copy of it which is JC6700 it is a European clear which i have used and it lays very nice with a show car finish both buff easy

DCU2021 is mixed 4:1:1 with dcx61 and reduced with DT8xx depending on weather.. this is prob the clearest clear i have ever shot it lays great and shines but it is about $300 for just clear and hardener.. it also has great UV protection

JC6700 is mixed 2:1 with JH6710 or JH6720 your choice depending on your weather type.. this clear lays really nice if it is reduced by 20% with JR50x reducer but will run really fast if not careful also has UV protection

if you need to know more or need a P sheet on anything heres a website for everything paint product related

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/

Good luck with your project.. Matt

Grr

iTrader: (2)

If you plan on going with the summit paint (I am too) check out this site. It is just rebadged Kirker, and the bottom of this page has a good kit that is alot cheaper than what summit has
http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Kirk...urethanes.html

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Yea, I knew the paint was relabeled Kirker. Not sure which paint "yodas little brother" used but the results & pics through the process of the Summit paint I have seen were not even close to his description. Here is a link to the thread with the pics & I gotta say that paint looks like it laid just fine & smooth. I'm not tryin for a metallic paint either, its gonna be a solid color, no flake, no pearl, no metallic at all.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/paint-bod...-car-done.html

I'll check that site Grr

yodas little brother

iTrader: (2)

dont know if they changed there product but when it was given to me it was a single stage paint that you would clear.it ended up looking fine on the car when i was done just saying there is better paint out there for the same money or cheaper not sure what retail is on the summit paint.we have a diamont system and a matrix system and for the money i would say to use the matrix there base and clears have been working and shooting great since we have had them but its your car your money.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

The Summit paint for everything I listed came out to $265.65 w/o shipping costs added. The paint on the link Grr posted retails for $219 + $37 shipping for the color I"m wanting to go with. So it is cheaper than the Summit brand by a little. Its Kirker Ultra-Glo Urethane enamel paint in a complete kit, primer, bc & cc.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Also curious about something else I have been wondering about. Would it hurt anything since my paint is already **** if I started to sand down but not through the stock primer on the bumpers, fenders, doors, sail panel, hood....Basically every part thats not metal on the body. I was thinking this would be a way for me to get a jump start on the sanding while still being able to drive it around. I know it'll most likely need another quick scuff & the quarters sanded good before primer gets sprayed.

Just wondering if I dont go all the way through the stock primer, if the actual fiberglass parts would be alright if it rains. Might be a stupid question but figured I'd ask anyway. I'm itching to start sanding this ugly bitch, LOL.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Hmmm, no feedback about the sanding question. Guess I'll start searchin the web & see what I find.

Feel free to chime in

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Alright, went on lunch & picked up some 80 grit to cut through the remaining clear coat & stock paint. Got a foam sanding block as well thats a tear drop shade with **** on top. I havent found anything negative so far in searching about sanding fiberglass/polyurethane body pieces without applying a primer directly after sanding. So from what I gather I can wait to shoot primer until I get ready to sand the quarters/door seals/hatch seals since they are the parts that could rust unprimed.

I'd rather not do it this way, but since its my daily & I have minimal down time this will allow me to sand what I can when I have free time. Before primer gets sprayed there will be disassembly to get all edges sanded, but that shouldnt take long if the rest of the pieces are already sanded & basically ready for primer.

Anyone else ever had to go about doin it this way?

freefallen.1

As far as sanding less is more. I would recommend 400 grit unless you have peeling then start at 150 and feather up to 4-600. No need for 80 grit unless you are doing filler work. Remeber to go in a cris cross diaginal motion not up and down or back and forth.

Opher

The Kirker paint isnt bad, you just have to know how to use it. Im not sure what clear they are re labling, as they have several types. I've used the Kirker stuff both in single stage and bc/cc form. For the money, its not bad. I've use their EC300, ultra high solids clear, its super thick, you need to reduce it more than the can says (talked to their tech line on this one) IMO its much better than Omni or Nason, of which is its competition. The only downfall is there are only so many colors. Typically its not a problem if you are doing a complete. Kirker just released a new low VOC base coat, thats my next thing to try. Like I said, apples to apples, this stuff isnt bad for the money. At my shop we have had some Reds cost in excess of $600 for a gallon of base, so when this stuff is under $100 for a setup, you're doing pretty good.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Yea, I have peeling clear coat on my hood, quarters & sail panel. Thankx for the advice, I'll take all the tips I can get. When I was in high school I sanded several cars for a guy who was doin my stereo system. So I have a little experience but nothing extensive. I just know the basics & have a good feel for making sure the surface is smooth.

I'm gonna get some more grits of peper, I just saw the 80 said for cutting through clear coat & existing paint so I grabbed it. I was plannin on grabbing some 150 & 120 today. I'm just gathering some supplies to get started right now.

My hood is worse than this now, but here is the last pic I took.

Hartje

iTrader: (1)

I thought my paint was awful, i guess i have no room to complain. Good luck with the paint job, keep us updated. I plan on doing mine next winter when it gets retired from DD duties.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I guess I had some microscopic cracks in the clear coat which helped this all start. Everything was fine until those bad ice storms a couple years ago. After that I started to notice bubbles under the clear. Then the bubbles got bigger & as of today about 90% of the clear coat is gone from the hood, just peeled right up in chunks.

dreemurY2K SS

iTrader: (1)

man you don't have to go to aggressive grit on the paint to get rid of the clear, you will have to reprimer everything you hit with that 120-150 grit, just get a DA and sand it down with 220-320 and that should be good you wont really have to reprimer it if you put down some sealer.

also have you seen summits new 2 stage paint, they have some better colors than there single stage, you can always use there paint just get a munch better clear, like dupont, spies hecker, HOK, ppg, etc

good luck.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Thanks for the tips. I'm lookin at a couple DA sanders. I thought the paint I listed was a 2 stage, since you have to spray base & clear instead of just a base that doesnt require clear over it. I want to hit it with primer & sand that to help smooth it all out & hopefully give it a more consistant finish all around vs tryin to spray the white over old trashy NBM paint thats ruined.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well got some good news this morning. I contacted a old friend of mine who I know has some amature painting experience. He painted his old Datson Z car a 2 tone job in his garage. It ended up winning a couple local car show trophys as a resto entry. I asked him if he would be interested in helpin me repaint the bird & he jumped on it. Said to just let him know when I'm ready so he doesnt have anything else scheduled. Luckily he is a retired guy so his schedule can work with me a little easier. And he has a big enough garage to use drop plastic to create a temp. paint booth.

dreemurY2K SS

iTrader: (1)

a base coat/clear coat is a lot better, that way you can spray about 4 coats of clear and wet sand the car with 1500grit 2000grit and then 3k grit and then buff the entire car and it will look flat and glossy as hell

im using summits paint products just for base and using chromaclear from dupont on my friends ws6 which im painting yellow.

just if you do primer your whole car do this bro.
dry sand it with 220 then 320 then 400 WET . that way you will find all the imperfection in the body an fix them while you still can.
and when that comes BLOCK IT, DO NOT USE A DA or it might come out WAVY.

if any question feel free to ask ill help out with what i can and know



look heres the thread to me working on my friends ws6.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/western-m...iends-ws6.html

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Sweet paint work man. I'm just gonna use a DA to knock down the flat surfaces quick before primer. All the curved areas will be done by hand & foam blocks. After primer all sanding will be done manually. I'm very lucky as far as body damage. I only have 1 tinys like ding in my quarter thats barely even visible. Not too shabby for a 99' thats daily driven & have 160k on the clock, LOL..

What did you think about the Summit base coat? How did it spray? What gun are you using & what tips sizes for application?

Thankx for the advice man.