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Rattle Can Color Close To Machined?

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Old 03-09-2011, 08:17 AM
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Default Rattle Can Color Close To Machined?

Does anyone know what rattle can color would be closest to a "machined" look? I have the machined face C5 DD wheels and I had the plastic chrome center caps and want to try and paint them so they don't stand out as much. I was looking at the Anodized Duplicolor paint and was wondering if that would be close. Or maybe just a flat silver?

I will attempt this on my extra set of center caps before doing it on my SS replacement ones I have.

Opinions/options?
Old 03-09-2011, 02:08 PM
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I agree that you guys with machined wheels gotta doe something about those center caps. There was a thread i saw where a guy made his own, i think it was on a green T/A.

Now I have thought about how this could be done. And because of the center caps on the machined wheels I decided to go with black.

however, during my brain storming, i thought maybe a 6" Disc 800 grit sand paper on my grinder, put the grinder in the vise and take the center cap and try to sand it in a perfect circle.... but this would only give you the texture,, i was gonna worry about paint matching later...

Post your results i'm curious to see if you find anything. SO ARE A BUNCH OF OTHER GUYS!
Old 03-09-2011, 02:22 PM
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I was going to try and have emblempros make me ones, but they said the clips would be hard to do. Also they'd probably be rather expensive. Idc if the texture necessarily matches, I just want the color to be very close so the center caps don't stick out like sore thumbs. I don't want to go with black center caps either cause that would look even worse IMO. Lol. I think I may get a few rattle cans, spray them on some card board, hold it up to the wheel and see which is close. I think anodized might be similar, but idk. A flat silver might be my best option.
Old 03-09-2011, 02:45 PM
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i started a thread about cener cap modification & options in the wheels section that included ideas for the Machined finish.

So far no one has chimed in which I find kinda odd since so many people dislike their caps.

It's looking like sourcing a set of the silver painted Vette caps either with or without the center logo is the clostest option. I have some pics in my thread of stuff I found.

The guy that made his own set isnt lookin to make anymore right now, I already contacted him & he is too busy to dedicate the time to start making them.
Old 03-09-2011, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BIG_MIKE2005
i started a thread about cener cap modification & options in the wheels section that included ideas for the Machined finish.

So far no one has chimed in which I find kinda odd since so many people dislike their caps.

It's looking like sourcing a set of the silver painted Vette caps either with or without the center logo is the clostest option. I have some pics in my thread of stuff I found.

The guy that made his own set isnt lookin to make anymore right now, I already contacted him & he is too busy to dedicate the time to start making them.
Thread link?

Have you tried any different types of paints?
Old 03-09-2011, 02:59 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...ification.html

I havent tried anything yet. I'm just tossing around ideas
Old 03-10-2011, 12:18 PM
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For machined paint look, paint an item black and clear coat it. Follow up with a thin coat of silver. when the silver dries, use a 220 or 320 grit sand paper (depending on how grooved you want the look) and sand ONE continuous swipe in the direction you want the machined look. For a circular machined look, try to attach the object to something that rotates and turn it slowly and evenly as you apply the sandpaper. When it has the look you want, clear over it heavily and wet sand your clear flat and smooth.
Old 03-10-2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Swiat34
For machined paint look, paint an item black and clear coat it. Follow up with a thin coat of silver. when the silver dries, use a 220 or 320 grit sand paper (depending on how grooved you want the look) and sand ONE continuous swipe in the direction you want the machined look. For a circular machined look, try to attach the object to something that rotates and turn it slowly and evenly as you apply the sandpaper. When it has the look you want, clear over it heavily and wet sand your clear flat and smooth.
That's definitely more in-depth. But a very good option. Thing is if I did that I'd have to paint over the SS then get SS decals to put back over them. I was just thinking that the flat silver would be good enough. Maybe I'll do the black with the silver over it.
Old 03-11-2011, 05:37 PM
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Alright, so I went to get the "dull" silver tonight at Advanced Auto and they didn't really have the greatest options to choose from.

I narrowed it down to two Duplicolor "perfect match" silvers.

It was between a silver off of a Ford or a silver off of a Subaru. Guess which it was? Yup, the Ford silver. Lol. I'm going to put it up against my wheels tomorrow and see if it's too bright. It almost seems like it is, but if I do a semi-gloss black base coat and lighter silver coats I think it may darken it some and look more like the machined. Idk though, we'll see.
Old 03-12-2011, 11:09 AM
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might sound silly, but what about the above idea (black & clear - dry) followed by a painting of the appropriate silver and just before drying, taking a brush into the wet paint while rotating?
Old 03-12-2011, 11:20 AM
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There was an episode of Overhaulin' where Chip did a Shelby mustang clone and the stripes he did were silver and he went down the silver paint with an sos pad to scratch it. After clearing, it looked like brushed steel. It was a nice look, maybe something like that would work.. sos, sandpaper or scotchbrite pads.
Old 03-12-2011, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ANTICOP RAM AIR
There was an episode of Overhaulin' where Chip did a Shelby mustang clone and the stripes he did were silver and he went down the silver paint with an sos pad to scratch it. After clearing, it looked like brushed steel. It was a nice look, maybe something like that would work.. sos, sandpaper or scotchbrite pads.
That's who I learned it from! He used a metal yard stick as a guide to make sure the lines are straight and used one of those sanding sponges...in 150 grit I think actually.

Using a brush wouldn't be a good idea when the paint is wet since it'll pull the "skin" of the paint and smudge and look nasty.



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