98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

So I've recently acquired a 60 gal compressor and a set of Devilbiss spray guns to tackle my painting needs. I've never sprayed before, but since I bought everything, if and when I mess up, it will just take time to fix it.

I've also purchased an air file, palm sander, and sanding blocks for the prep stages. I'm now trying to find out what primer, sealer, hardener, reducer, basecoat, and clearcoat to get and where to get it. I've tried going to local places and asking to by paint from them, but no dice. So I'm guessing everything is online? I also want to get the original bright green metallic color. I've heard that the metallic paint is hard to do. How much truth is in that? My plan is to first paint the engine bay since I'm working on my twins. From researching it looks like the best economical paint is the PPG Omni.

As far as process goes it should be to sand down the surface, prime, sand (with what grits?), apply required body work, sand down (with what grits?), seal, then spray the base and clear?

I don't mind spending the money on the tools and supplies, I just need to know what to get. Can someone send me in the right direction?

SinisterZ28

iTrader: (4)

If you don't have a local automotive paint supplier,you can probably get paint from a parts store like orileys or napa ect.,they should have different types of primer/paint you can get HB Body for Primer with normal hardner n reducer if you can find it,I would use dupont or spies hecker paint but whatever brand you use you'll need slow reducer for your base coat,use a dark sealer like a dark grey. I'll get you some more awnsers later after work.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Depending on what your base coat color is will depend on what color of sealer you will get.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Bright green metallic

SinisterZ28

iTrader: (4)

if its a lighter green use a lighter grey sealer( i thought it said dark green).matrix sealer is pretty good choice, i would also recomend their clear MS-42 clear with very slow hardner if you plan to paint in the summer if itll be this winter use the slow hardner.dont gocheap on the basecoat though, i recommend dupont or spies hecker.
do the body work first dents,scratches ect.
you will need 80,180,220,320 for bodywork(also 80 for the DA,and 320)
you will need 500 wet for prep and a soft block and grey scotch brite scuff pads
you may need 36 grit and an angle grinder if you have body work that needs to be pulled out with a stud puller such as larger or deep/sharp dents
use evercoat rage filler,and evercoat putty-if you have minor dents only putty will be fine
sand inside and around dents,bow off
mix putty and spread with a bondo spreader over the dent
sand dent with a hard block with 180 till the dent feels gone,reapply putty/filler as nessasary slways feather the area being sanded out
sand any scrathes out with 320 thats around the fixed area and if you have any on the rest of the car also
PRIMER-mask the repaired area with paper n plastic( mask the area off larger than you plan to spay on,spaying the primer inside the srea thats masked off,dont wont prmer from edge to edge of you masking area it will make "hard"primer edges that will show up in your paint job.
after primer has dried spray with guide coat( guide coat is a black spray paint/powder you put on primer to check body work.then hard block with 220.
look for any pin holes ,if you have pin holes or need any more putty for dents now would be the best time before the next step.
after that REPRIME this time block with 320 with a hard block-you can skip the 220 step and primer only once but i wouldnt recommend it.
sand with 500 wet and scuff with a grey scuff pad in any crevasses and edges.
should be ready to tape/paper for paint
do one panel at a time and youll have a better job.

mrrman

marked to follow this

Opher

My suggestion to you as far as base coats go is to use a quality product like Standox, Sikkens, Glasuirt, R-M, or even Transtar No Mix.

PPG's Omni and Duponts Nason base coats are very inexpensive. However they do not cover very well, and if you are going to paint a metallic, this could cause a real problem for a first time painter.

You will end up spending about the same on the base coats because you will use LESS of the good base coat, as it covers much faster, in less coats.

Not to mention Omni and Nason are not very forgiving if you have to sand them in between to get dirt or defects out , they tend to lift and wrinkle when you re shoot them.

Personally I shoot a lot of RM and Glasurit, its almost impossible to "mottle" them they cover very very quickly, lay down great.

IMO the best bang for the buck out there right now is Transtar's No Mix system. The only problem is it is hard to find sometimes. Not everyone has it. The pricing is very comparable to Omni or Nason, and it sprays like Glasurit, Standox, etc. It is great for completes.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Thanks for the input everyone! But still my main question lingers, what establishment can I get the Bright Green Metallic paint from? I tried napa and autozone, no luck.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I tried autozone and orielly's yesterday, same thing.

SinisterZ28

iTrader: (4)

Try finding a automotive paint store in your area maybe ask a well known bodyshop where they get there paint supplies from around here in TN we have Colormatch and some other smaller independents, look in the yellow pages or local Internet search.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I bought some k2 primer and I'm going to build a "paint booth" tomorrow. It says it's a 4:1 mixture with the hardener, what's the easiest way to get that right? Once I'm finished, do I just run thinner through the hopper to clean it or what? Also, I've never messed with the pressure regulator, what are the proper settings?

I'll be getting my paint probably Thursday and laying that down afterwards. Thanks for the help!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

You can either get a paint stick with measurements(normally metal) on it or buy paint cups that have them on the side. http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/mixcups.aspx

On the cup there will be different ratios around the cup. 4:1:1, 2:1, etc. as seen in the pic above.

You would use the 4:1:1 row on the cup for your primer, you just don't use the last "1" because there's nothing there. You just have primer and the catalyst. It's still the same ratio.

Use the column to decide how much paint you have. Look at the last number you are going to use to determine how much product you will end up with. Mix your primer or paint up well, pour it to your desired line, then add your next thing the same number in the second column and so on. Mix well in the paint cup, use a cheap paper strainer and put it in the gun. Remember paint and especially high build filler primer has whats called "pot life" which basically means how low it can sit in the gun before it starts to harden. If you let filler primer harden in your gun it's pretty much junk after that. Sometimes you can use paint stripper to get it out but that's rare.

As far as air pressure goes sometimes it says on the can or the paint supply house should have some paperwork for the paint. We have a PPG book at work that tells about each product. Primers, sealers, base, etc. It tells about what the air pressure should be, how long you should wait between coats, how many coats and so on.

Starting out its a good idea to go off those suggestions. After you spray for a while you kinda get a feel for it and can set it yourself. Keep in mind if you are using a HVLP gun, where the paint is stored above the gun your settings will be different than a traditional gun.

You need lacquer thinner to clean your gun. If you are doing a whole car buy 5 gallons of it. It will be cheaper that way.

This is what I do(not saying it's right/wrong, everyone does it different) after I get done spraying whatever dump out anything that's left. You can keep basecoat. Don't put it back in the original can it came out of because it has been reduced. Anything with a hardener you have to throw out. I fill the cup on the gun about 1/3-1/2 full with thinner. start spraying the thinner through the gun, not near or on what you just painted mind you. Shake/swirl the gun to start breaking down the paint/primer in the cup. It won't take long then you will see thinner coming out of the gun. Do this a a few times. Wipe the cup out, put some more thinner in it till it's clean. Then take the front of the gun apart. Take the front collar off(can't think of a better term) then the tip and the rod that goes through it buy taking the **** and spring off the back. Wash everything out good with thinner. put it back together and spray a little thinner through it again and that should be it.

Before you start spraying your car get a test panel, card board or whatever and familiarize yourself with the gun and the products. Get comfortable mixing, how the measurements work, the adjustments on your gun and what they do. It will make spraying your car/panel much easier if you do. IMO if you just jump into it you might be overwhelmed because once you mix the paint, especially primer the clock starts ticking on how long you have. Remember if you mess up and we all have. You can sand it off when it's dry and do it again.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Also invest in some wax/grease remover and how to use it. A tack cloth is your friend too. Not such an issue when you are spraying filler primer.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

If you haven't looked at the thread going on now where the guy is spraying his T/A it's a good thread. This is his first time doing body work and has picked up on it pretty fast.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

thanks for all your help! I just have to make the paint booth and I'll be ready

andrewhlr

iTrader: (5)

Thanks!

I hope you have several months with nothing else to do but this. I spent around 400 hours on mine!!! As far as shooting the metallic, you may want to practice on some test pieces to get some consistency with them and your going to have to shoot the whole car at the same time or else your panels will be noticeably different. And if you still haven't found a place for your paint, check to see if there is a sherwin williams automotive in your area. They sell good quality paint and have stores just about everywhere.